Jim, are the fasteners screw in or a bolt and nut? Either way, a long job and you did tidy work. My wooden boat builder buddy recommends 10 coats of finish btw.
Nut and bolt Don. But the wood I planned was a 1/16- 1/8 thicker in places. Made it a b%$#h to get the nuts on! All the bolts were from the old deck... so I had to polish them also. Took a while... No 10 coats...mild Coast u get 2 coats...
Dad did a 40 ford pickup bed back in the 90s, used an ash tree off our property, I still have some of the leftover ash. I use it as a ramp for hauling my snowblower and other stuff on my pickup.
-- Edited by DonSSDD on Friday 28th of April 2023 03:22:17 AM
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63 Parisienne sport coupe (The Big GTO), black, maroon interior, 409 4 speed; former owner of a 59 El Camino, 63 Corvette SWC, 62 Chev Bel Air SC. 1963- Pontiac top selling car in Canada
Mahone Bay, NS Still not old enough to need an automatic
took the wife and her 5 co-workers to the airport Saturday since my 09 Suburban 2500 holds 7 I got the job. Poor old girl just sits and driving with girls and loggage it was not stopping so good. Bought every thing new for all 4 corners. Did the front and that alone made a huge difference. decided to leave back for another day just incase emergency brakes needed replaced
"The pursuit of perfection is frustrating and a waste of time because nothing is ever perfect. The pursuit of excellence is commendable and worth while. Therefore strive for excellence, not perfection"
I spent all my Saturday dealing with a well problem. It didn't start that way. I purchased a whole home electrical monitoring station as our electric bills have been crazy the last few months. We had even stopped using the heat pump during the day and were heating with wood and that didn't make much difference. Well once I got that system hooked up right away I knew the issue. The well pump is drawing 500 watts all the time! I suspected the well tank. My guage was only showing 30psi and wouldn't go any higher thus not engaging the pressure switch (which needs 50lbs to activate) I drained the system and tried to add air to it (28psi empty) and it wouldn't hold. So, off to the local hardware store. Figuring everything was 15 years old plus I bought a new pressure tank and a manifold which comes with a new pressure switch and gauge. $660 and 2 hours later I had it installed. Guess what? Same problem! Pump running constantly. My pump is submersible and is 180 feet down. So, my next step is to try to figure out what the issue is. A leak in the feed pipe, bad foot valve (which is likely on the pump), plugged or burnt out pump. Either way I'm into a bunch more $$$. This is why good ol Todd can never get an old car. Something always comes up.
Over the past 2 months there was quite the hum coming from the rear of my 2016 Impala. I was blaming it on the winter tires getting old and may scalloping; not so much. When I put the summer tires on the humming was still there. I ordered parts from Rockauto, unfortunately the wrong hubs but that's another story. I jacked up the car, removed the brake system; connected the slide hammer. After 23 - 30 pulls on the slide hammer it still wasn't budging. I applied Deep Creep to both sides. Began using the air chisel to see if I could jar it loose before hitting the slide hammer again. Another hour went by and finally I removed the entire assembly from the car and went to my 20 Ton press. The housing is very irregular in shape so I cut pieces of 3/4" heavy wall square tube to hold it straight in the press. Seconds later that sucker was out. I didn't even bother to try the slide hammer on the other side, I just removed the assembly and put it in the press. Start to finish was under an hour on the 2nd side. Now to reorder the right parts.
took the wife and her 5 co-workers to the airport Saturday since my 09 Suburban 2500 holds 7 I got the job. Poor old girl just sits and driving with girls and loggage it was not stopping so good. Bought every thing new for all 4 corners. Did the front and that alone made a huge difference. decided to leave back for another day just incase emergency brakes needed replaced
Sure enough the linings had come away from the shoes and needed to be replaced. The local Car Quest had shoes and hardware kits in stock. I did not want to pull the rear axles but what a pain putting the shoes on behind the hub. did the one side and called it quits for the night
took the wife and her 5 co-workers to the airport Saturday since my 09 Suburban 2500 holds 7 I got the job. Poor old girl just sits and driving with girls and loggage it was not stopping so good. Bought every thing new for all 4 corners. Did the front and that alone made a huge difference. decided to leave back for another day just incase emergency brakes needed replaced
Sure enough the linings had come away from the shoes and needed to be replaced. The local Car Quest had shoes and hardware kits in stock. I did not want to pull the rear axles but what a pain putting the shoes on behind the hub. did the one side and called it quits for the night
It's always best to not do it all right away, save something for tomorrow!
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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 45,000 original miles
1966 Grande Parisienne, 396 1 of 23 factory air cars
tomorrow I pick up the gear box for the mower deck so thats what I will be working on. looks like rain will finally stop here and the grass is already out of control
I spent all my Saturday dealing with a well problem. It didn't start that way. I purchased a whole home electrical monitoring station as our electric bills have been crazy the last few months. We had even stopped using the heat pump during the day and were heating with wood and that didn't make much difference. Well once I got that system hooked up right away I knew the issue. The well pump is drawing 500 watts all the time! I suspected the well tank. My guage was only showing 30psi and wouldn't go any higher thus not engaging the pressure switch (which needs 50lbs to activate) I drained the system and tried to add air to it (28psi empty) and it wouldn't hold. So, off to the local hardware store. Figuring everything was 15 years old plus I bought a new pressure tank and a manifold which comes with a new pressure switch and gauge. $660 and 2 hours later I had it installed. Guess what? Same problem! Pump running constantly. My pump is submersible and is 180 feet down. So, my next step is to try to figure out what the issue is. A leak in the feed pipe, bad foot valve (which is likely on the pump), plugged or burnt out pump. Either way I'm into a bunch more $$$. This is why good ol Todd can never get an old car. Something always comes up.
Might have a bad "one way check valve" pump will run non stop if it pumps up to pressure but all runs back into well dropping the pressure. Maybe install one just before tank (pressure switch) so it can't all syphon back and then take pressure reading.
Over the past 2 months there was quite the hum coming from the rear of my 2016 Impala. I was blaming it on the winter tires getting old and may scalloping; not so much. When I put the summer tires on the humming was still there. I ordered parts from Rock auto, unfortunately the wrong hubs but that's another story. I jacked up the car, removed the brake system; connected the slide hammer. After 23 - 30 pulls on the slide hammer it still wasn't budging. I applied Deep Creep to both sides. Began using the air chisel to see if I could jar it loose before hitting the slide hammer again. Another hour went by and finally I removed the entire assembly from the car and went to my 20 Ton press. The housing is very irregular in shape so I cut pieces of 3/4" heavy wall square tube to hold it straight in the press. Seconds later that sucker was out. I didn't even bother to try the slide hammer on the other side, I just removed the assembly and put it in the press. Start to finish was under an hour on the 2nd side. Now to reorder the right parts.
You zip cut off two wheel studs (you are scrapping it anyway), hammer them back out through the face. Pass two long grade bolts through the stud holes with a washer up on the backside, run a nut up to the washer.
Rotate the hub until you can find a decently flat spot (or two) for the bolts to contact on the knuckle face. You then hold the nut behind with a wrench, impact drive the bolt down until it contacts the knuckle. Even the most corroded press fit will slowly break free. Work the bolts evenly, spray oil, add a flat spacer behind them at the knuckle, or add washers at the hub if you run out of thread, and walk the bearing out.
Did it twice on my Explorer. I would have never got them out unless I had removed the entire knuckle like you did. The bolt method is a timesaver and it really works!
Over the past 2 months there was quite the hum coming from the rear of my 2016 Impala. I was blaming it on the winter tires getting old and may scalloping; not so much. When I put the summer tires on the humming was still there. I ordered parts from Rock auto, unfortunately the wrong hubs but that's another story. I jacked up the car, removed the brake system; connected the slide hammer. After 23 - 30 pulls on the slide hammer it still wasn't budging. I applied Deep Creep to both sides. Began using the air chisel to see if I could jar it loose before hitting the slide hammer again. Another hour went by and finally I removed the entire assembly from the car and went to my 20 Ton press. The housing is very irregular in shape so I cut pieces of 3/4" heavy wall square tube to hold it straight in the press. Seconds later that sucker was out. I didn't even bother to try the slide hammer on the other side, I just removed the assembly and put it in the press. Start to finish was under an hour on the 2nd side. Now to reorder the right parts.
You zip cut off two wheel studs (you are scrapping it anyway), hammer them back out through the face. Pass two long grade bolts through the stud holes with a washer up on the backside, run a nut up to the washer.
Rotate the hub until you can find a decently flat spot (or two) for the bolts to contact on the knuckle face. You then hold the nut behind with a wrench, impact drive the bolt down until it contacts the knuckle. Even the most corroded press fit will slowly break free. Work the bolts evenly, spray oil, add a flat spacer behind them at the knuckle, or add washers at the hub if you run out of thread, and walk the bearing out.
Did it twice on my Explorer. I would have never got them out unless I had removed the entire knuckle like you did. The bolt method is a timesaver and it really works!
Hey Mark, yes, I did it that way many years ago, but honestly it didn't cross my mind. My brain goes more to slide hammer or press these days. The driver's side took nearly 6 tons of pressure before it broke free. I think that kinds of stress and chewing on the backing plate would have made a mess. The passenger's side only took 3 tons before it broke free. Blake used my slide hammer when he did his Ford and they came off after about 6 hits.
I know what you mean about the bolt grinding into the shield or the Knuckle itself Glenn. I cut a little piece of 3/16 plate and placed it in line with the bolt. Seemed to work.
The thing about this method is I was thinking I'd never get the press fit apart, as the bearing and knuckle are dissimilar metals and had white rusted together. But the big electric impact gun was probably able to impart a huge force, and the impact part of it cracked it loose with no bother. When it just slightly moved, the fight was over.
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65 Laurentian post, 67 Grande Parisienne 4 door HT.
major growling and vibration from the mower deck. Changed the outboard bearings with no luck. Changed the tension pulley and still. Took the main gear box off and its shot. With taxes over $2000. That would buy a lot push mowers
bought an after market unit to save some bucks Unit was so tight it kept stalling tractor. Finaly got it to run and it cooked its self in 10 minutes. I only have to look in the mirror to find the guy to blame
Finally installed the o'hauled injectors on my son's daily, then it started to rain. Next chance I get I'll connect them to the fuel rail and learn how to code them!
Doing this made me think, how the hell do you do a compression check on a direct injection diesel?
I send an email last night after they closed . I got a reply from them 7am their time saying sorry and replacement will be sent out right away. I asked that they check to make sure this one turned freely
Unit was so tight it kept stalling tractor. Finaly got it to run and it cooked its self in 10 minutes. I only have to look in the mirror to find the guy to blame
