Members Login
Username 
 
Password 
    Remember Me  
Post Info TOPIC: Classic Car wiring?


Poncho Master!

Status: Offline
Posts: 1659
Date:
Classic Car wiring?


I have never done a restoration on a car, but one thing that always gets me curious is the wiring. Is there anything simple out there.  How do you guys do it? It just seems to me that there are a HUGE amount of wiring, in the dash and in the engine bay.

How do you know which wires to get, where they go etc? Do you keep the shop manual in hand? are there wiring sets available? It seems so overwhelming, because of the amount? I am just curious on the situation.



__________________


Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 573
Date:

You cant really do it without the shop manual or diagrams.Their all color coded as  wellso that makes it easier.

__________________


A Poncho Legend!

Status: Offline
Posts: 48941
Date:

Are you planning to remove all the wiring?

If you just can't get a manual, take lots and lots of pictures of wires plugged in to stuff, then tag them. Often just the length of a particular wire, or the shape it naturally wants to take will help you find its home.

But as Chris said, the factory manual is sure the easiest.

__________________

1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 45,000 original miles 

1966 Grande Parisienne, 396 1 of 23 factory air cars (now converted to a "factory" 4 speed)



Poncho Master!

Status: Offline
Posts: 2335
Date:

I bought a wiring diagram off ebay, it's was in colour and then laminated so U can't get it dirty. Take it out to the shop with u with no problems. I took all my dash harness out and re wired the neccessary wires that were burnt or hacked up. Laid the harness out on a 4x8 sheet of plywood and cut it open. Tagged all wire end with function made it easier to reinstall the harness. Engine harnesses and taillamp harnesses are ususally cheap to by from a repo harness place like M&H wiring. Ususally around 120 bucks each for front and rear. Dash is expensive around 500 to 700 depending on car.

Old cars are easy, U should look at a new car, YUK. 


-- Edited by Lemans64 on Thursday 22nd of April 2010 12:35:11 AM

__________________

64 Lemans, 4spd

Vancouver Island B.C.



Poncho Master!

Status: Offline
Posts: 1659
Date:

Would a the Painless Wiring system work for rewiring the whole car, lets say their universal GM system? would that work for a 68 Riv?

Their manual is here

http://www.painlessperformance.com/Manuals/10101.pdf

-- Edited by mike667 on Thursday 22nd of April 2010 07:38:50 PM

__________________


Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 874
Date:

My buddy used a painless system in his car, and you still need to know where the wires go....it's all nice and neet...but you still need to know where to feed them.

__________________

If it weren't for my Pontiac's ..well you know. 



A Poncho Legend!

Status: Offline
Posts: 48941
Date:

Just my two cents but I would use a Painless maybe if I was converting to injection and stuff like that. For an original car I would stick with an original harness.

__________________

1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 45,000 original miles 

1966 Grande Parisienne, 396 1 of 23 factory air cars (now converted to a "factory" 4 speed)



Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 652
Date:

Carl Stevenson wrote:

Just my two cents but I would use a Painless maybe if I was converting to injection and stuff like that. For an original car I would stick with an original harness.



I think I would agree with Carl..

-- Edited by Rolilk on Thursday 22nd of April 2010 10:52:48 PM

__________________


Addicted!

Status: Offline
Posts: 184
Date:

Try American Autowire. Far better than Painless. Factory fit , connectors etc.
Just finished my beaumont, used a chevelle kit, and almost every wire fit perfect.

__________________


Poncho Master!

Status: Offline
Posts: 2249
Date:

Rolilk wrote:

Carl Stevenson wrote:

(Just my two cents but I would use a Painless maybe if I was converting to injection and stuff like that.) For an original car I would stick with an original harness.



I think I would agree with Carl..


Lemans64 wrote:

I bought a wiring diagram off ebay, it's was in colour and then laminated so U can't get it dirty. Take it out to the shop with u with no problems. I took all my dash harness out and re wired the neccessary wires that were burnt or hacked up. Laid the harness out on a 4x8 sheet of plywood and cut it open. Tagged all wire end with function made it easier to reinstall the harness. Engine harnesses and taillamp harnesses are ususally cheap to by from a repo harness place like M&H wiring. Ususally around 120 bucks each for front and rear. Dash is expensive around 500 to 700 depending on car.

Old cars are easy, U should look at a new car, YUK. 


beaumontwagon wrote:

You cant really do it without the shop manual or diagrams.They are all color coded as well so that makes it easier.



Well since you want to RESTORE it, a kit from some place like Painless would seem to be contraindicated. So I agree with all of the knowledgeable folks above, eh?

(sorry for taking the iberty to tweak the above e.g. bold print).

Dave

 



__________________

56Pontiac  1956 Pontiac Pathfinder 2dr sedan, 496 - dyno'd 545 hp, stick shift, 4.11 posi - Hot Rod

  1964 Acadian Beaumont SD convert, 283 - factory 195 hp, Powerglide, 3.08 10-bolt - Cruiser

  2012 US-built crew cab truck - Daily Driver and Boat Trailering



Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 567
Date:

I used the 68 Chevelle SS American Auto Wire engine compartment and forward light harnesses on my Beaumont. It was a perfect fit. I've heard that the Painless kits aren't as painless as they lead you to believe.
James

__________________

1968 Beaumont SD396 

Laurens, South Carolina

Page 1 of 1  sorted by
 
Quick Reply

Please log in to post quick replies.

Tweet this page Post to Digg Post to Del.icio.us
.
Support Canadian Poncho!
Select Amount:
<
.
.
.