I am thinking eventually I will be replacing the roofing at our cottage. It is asphalt shingles right now but I think I want to go tin for a few reasons (simplicity of installing, durability, longer lasting). I have been reading up on it and it mostly makes sense how to put it over the existing shingles but for the life of me I can't find any writing on how to seal the stainless steel chimney for the wood stove, where it comes through the roofing. It looks easy on asphalt but how is it done on tin?
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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 45,000 original miles
1966 Grande Parisienne, 396 1 of 23 factory air cars
I should been more detailed. I am not so concerned about the heat as I am about how to seal a round pipe to that will encounter a number of ridges around the perimeter of the opening. Does that explain it better?
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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 45,000 original miles
1966 Grande Parisienne, 396 1 of 23 factory air cars
The way i do it is you cut the bottom sheet around the chimney up pass then you put your chimney flashing down on top of the steel . Then you cut the top sheet to come down on top of your chimney flashing and caulk . Make sure you have strip around your chimney to take the screws to hold the steel down. Hope this helps
Yes, that helps. I hadn't thought of having an upper and lower piece where the chimney comes through. I was thinking it would be one sheet and that I'd have to cut a pretty accurate hole, then find a way to seal it. Your way really makes sense. It takes most of the "pressure" off the actual seal around the chimney where it comes though the roof. Thanks.
You can tell I'm not a handyman. I still like cars better but this cottage stuff is fun cause there's no pressure on me like there is when it's home stuff.
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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 45,000 original miles
1966 Grande Parisienne, 396 1 of 23 factory air cars
You Know you'll better put some snow stops on your steel roof where your doors are. If your roof is to steep the snow will also take your chimney off when it starts to side. So it wouldn't hurt to put a snow stop above your chimney. But i don't know where your chimney is
-- Edited by slinky on Saturday 29th of May 2010 09:50:46 PM
I was trying to find a picture of it but I guess I don't have one.
I think it's about 2 feet down from the peak if I remember right. Hopefully that is high enough that not too much snow will build up above it. What do you think?
I will try to get a few pics next time I'm out there.
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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 45,000 original miles
1966 Grande Parisienne, 396 1 of 23 factory air cars
I tried sealing the flashing on top of the tin but it never really worked too well. I finally gave up and bought another sheet cut it to shape and lapped it over the top half of the flashing. No more problems but I could have thought ahead a bit more. I must say both my wife and I do actually enjoy the sound of rain on a tin roof. (like today for instance)
I don't think I will remove the asphalt shingles. I read lots and everyone says you can just put 1X4 strips down and screw the tin to them.
Also, the cleanup would be a huge deal as we have to walk about 200 feet to our parking lot from the cottage. That in itself is not bad but there is a good 15' of vertical in that walk on a narrow trail. Plan B if we removed them would be carry the 75' to the water, put them in the boat and haul them 1/4 mile to the beach where I can back a trailer right to the water. However, it seems leaving them on is just fine.
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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 45,000 original miles
1966 Grande Parisienne, 396 1 of 23 factory air cars
I don't think I will remove the asphalt shingles. I read lots and everyone says you can just put 1X4 strips down and screw the tin to them.
Also, the cleanup would be a huge deal as we have to walk about 200 feet to our parking lot from the cottage. That in itself is not bad but there is a good 15' of vertical in that walk on a narrow trail. Plan B if we removed them would be carry the 75' to the water, put them in the boat and haul them 1/4 mile to the beach where I can back a trailer right to the water. However, it seems leaving them on is just fine.
I'm told the insulation factor of leaving them on is beneficial also
ok carl tinman for 20 years.do not cover over the old shingles because you will be trapping in moisture in the cabin.Everyone says ill just strap it and it will vent but this is bad idea.Rip those suckers out of there.Those boots work great as long as they are not gettin sealed to a hot pipe.Selkirk,backpan and storm collar are required if the pipe is hot,you can always tuck the backpan under the ridge cap if the pipe is close to the top,or slice insheet.The best metal roof now is called snaplock,is 12 inches wide panel and all screws are concealed under the panel.Also new underlays are available easy to work with insted of tar paper!try googlin westman or westmin metals,i can take a pix if you cant find on the net timbuk
Wow, thanks very much! Nothing like getting someone in here who's been at it for a while.......!
I think you need to come to Northwest Ontario for a vacation this summer, don't you??? It's beautiful where you'd be working, uhhhhh, .......... I mean vacationing!
I believe the correct term for this chimney is Selkirk. It's a beautiful stainless steel double wall unit. I can tell the former owner liked to buy good stuff judging by some of the equipment and materials that are there.
I have some more googling to do!!!
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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 45,000 original miles
1966 Grande Parisienne, 396 1 of 23 factory air cars
Just noticed you questioning about covering the shingles or not. Does the cabin have an attic space at all or are your rafters part of your ceiling? If you have an attic space I wouldn't be concerned about moisture at all and even with your strapping on the roof it will allow the air to move through because the only moisture that ever gets in there should be just from the air. If you want a little more circulation just strap with 2 x 4 instead of 1 x 4. The ends are usually open and just covered with vent so air can move from end to end.
moisture is the enemy of your building.A metal roof will always create moisture under the metal,alas the cold beer in a glass that condensates.You must have a waterproof underlay under the metal.The underlay will take this moisture away to the roofs edge.If you just strap over the shingles and use this surface for the underlay purpose,you will need to vent the cavity between both roofs.If you mount the roof to the strapping directly,the strapping will suffer/rot from condensation.It is best to avoid this situation totally.Maybe not so much in your region,but here in the wet coast,that is basically a nono.
-- Edited by timbuk on Saturday 29th of May 2010 11:47:55 PM
Well Timbuk, you've got me thinking. Our cottage is quite sheltered by lots of spruce, cedar pine and balsam. It gets lots of sun but not a lot of wind except a bit from from the north. The south side is very sheltered. I know the shingles get good sun on the south because I have been watching to see pick an area where I hope to affix some solar panels on that side. However when it rains it does stay damp around the cabin for a while due to the shade, but not so much on the roof as soon as it's sunny.
Jerel, the south 1/2 of the has a regular attic. The north 1/2 is A frame style with a large part of that 1/2 being a loft. The upper part of the "A" that we sleep under is uninsulated. The walls are all insulated. I am going to check but I am pretty sure the attic part of the south half has an insulated ceiling as well.
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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 45,000 original miles
1966 Grande Parisienne, 396 1 of 23 factory air cars
Tim made a good point as far as the different regions. We build a certain way here but yet on the coast that way caused the leaky condos and they are still repairing them. It would be easy enough to vent the cavity between the 2 roofs too.
If your using high rib steel the air flows to the top vents and i use house wrap under the steel if we don't strap the steel roofs. If you are going to use 1x4 make sure it 's rough 1x4 it give you little more space and stronger them the dress ones. If you have gable ends cap them and you wouldn't see the the strapping same with the bottom.
