What type should I get for doing the valve seals on my SBC??? I have seen the pry bar style, but was told it is better if you have a couple hands extra. I stopped at Carquest, and they have 2 different styles. One looks like it sits on top of the valve, and compresses the spring with a nut. The other looks like it fits on the rocker stud, then flip a lever to compress it. Which do you reccommend??????
Thanks.....
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John
1972 Pontiac Lemans (daughter's car) 2005 Pontiac Grand Am 2004 Ford Explorer Sport Trac
I use one that's easy, it has two long arms that grab the bottom of the spring, the top has a tee handle attached to a threaded rod that screws through the main body. Below the main body is an up side down U-shaped piece that is attached to the threaded rod, as you wind it down, it pushes down on the retainer until the keepers are free to take out. Works well for high rated springs, one man operation.
I use a small magnet to grab the keepers before they fall out, cover the oil return holes in the heads before you get started.
You also need a fitting that threads into the spark plug hole that your air line will attach to for the compressed air to keep the valve up. Rotate the crank so both valves are closed on the cylinder you're working on, this will also give you an idea how well the valve seats are.
I hit a auto shop teacher in the head with a valve spring once ... the compressor worked great! Just watch out for flying valve springs!
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Prince Edward Island
'64 Parisienne CS "barn find" - last on the road in '86 ... Owner Protection Plan booklet, original paint, original near-mint aqua interior, original aqua GM floor mats, original 283, factory posi, and original rust.
just did the valve springs on the 409 they are duals i found out the the generic C clamp style does not work in fact it barely did the small blocks and bent really bad with the big block cost was over a 100 bucks i bought a Moroso unit and paid 90 for it and it will do springs up to 600 pounds and the heads dont have to be off the car well worth the investment
I have one that has two arms thaqt grab the bottom of the spring and a wheel thatturns the nut/plate that compresses the spring.Can't remember where I got it but it a kd tool. Works ok if you are not in a hurry.
I ordered one today from Carquest. It is the second one I mentioned. It is an in car job, but the fenders are not on, and the headers are not bolted tight.....for this reason. I was looking for the tool to compress air into the cylinder, then tried to use my compression tester.....only problem is it only allows air one way through the line. So I am going to take a few pcs. to work, and see what we have for fiittings. Hope to do this tomorrow night, so I can bolt the valve covers down for good and put oil back in the motor. Will see how it goes....Thanks for your input.....by the way as far as I know they are stock vavle springs!!!!!!
__________________
John
1972 Pontiac Lemans (daughter's car) 2005 Pontiac Grand Am 2004 Ford Explorer Sport Trac
I have one that has two arms thaqt grab the bottom of the spring and a wheel thatturns the nut/plate that compresses the spring.Can't remember where I got it but it a kd tool. Works ok if you are not in a hurry.
I use one that's easy, it has two long arms that grab the bottom of the spring, the top has a tee handle attached to a threaded rod that screws through the main body. Below the main body is an up side down U-shaped piece that is attached to the threaded rod, as you wind it down, it pushes down on the retainer until the keepers are free to take out. Works well for high rated springs, one man operation.
I use a small magnet to grab the keepers before they fall out, cover the oil return holes in the heads before you get started.
You also need a fitting that threads into the spark plug hole that your air line will attach to for the compressed air to keep the valve up. Rotate the crank so both valves are closed on the cylinder you're working on, this will also give you an idea how well the valve seats are.
mine screws onto the rocker stud 2 different size ends for different size studs its a one handed operation after that real quick to use. to put air in the cylinder make sure your piston is at the top make a tool ball valve threaded end screws into spark plug hole with a quick coupler for a air hose
just remembered a real old school trick I learned (far too) long ago.Get the cylinder You are working on to BTDC ,then take 2-3 feet of 3/8 sash cord, the white ,smooth cotton line, and feed it into the spark plug hole.Leave some about 5-6 inches hanging out,duct tape it to the block so you don't lose the end. then bring the cylinder to TDC ,both valves will be closed,the cord/rope holds the valve up,you change springs or seals and if you have to you can leave it like that.For along time,still use your compressor line for other stuff,but mostly there is no worry of leakage of air past the rings or valves.NO worries about dropping a valve down, you can leave it over night if you don't get the cylinder finished before bed/wobbly pop time and best of all it is CHEAP.So for anyone who is on a budget and cannot afford a tool they may only use every ten years or does not have a compressor available ,this may work for you. My ten cents,er, dollars worth.
just remembered a real old school trick I learned (far too) long ago.Get the cylinder You are working on to BTDC ,then take 2-3 feet of 3/8 sash cord, the white ,smooth cotton line, and feed it into the spark plug hole.Leave some about 5-6 inches hanging out,duct tape it to the block so you don't lose the end. then bring the cylinder to TDC ,both valves will be closed,the cord/rope holds the valve up,you change springs or seals and if you have to you can leave it like that.For along time,still use your compressor line for other stuff,but mostly there is no worry of leakage of air past the rings or valves.NO worries about dropping a valve down, you can leave it over night if you don't get the cylinder finished before bed/wobbly pop time and best of all it is CHEAP.So for anyone who is on a budget and cannot afford a tool they may only use every ten years or does not have a compressor available ,this may work for you. My ten cents,er, dollars worth.
Yep, I've seen this method work well.
-- Edited by Pontiacanada on Friday 11th of June 2010 05:27:14 AM
__________________
Prince Edward Island
'64 Parisienne CS "barn find" - last on the road in '86 ... Owner Protection Plan booklet, original paint, original near-mint aqua interior, original aqua GM floor mats, original 283, factory posi, and original rust.
just remembered a real old school trick I learned (far too) long ago.Get the cylinder You are working on to BTDC ,then take 2-3 feet of 3/8 sash cord, the white ,smooth cotton line, and feed it into the spark plug hole.Leave some about 5-6 inches hanging out,duct tape it to the block so you don't lose the end. then bring the cylinder to TDC ,both valves will be closed,the cord/rope holds the valve up,you change springs or seals and if you have to you can leave it like that.For along time,still use your compressor line for other stuff,but mostly there is no worry of leakage of air past the rings or valves.NO worries about dropping a valve down, you can leave it over night if you don't get the cylinder finished before bed/wobbly pop time and best of all it is CHEAP.So for anyone who is on a budget and cannot afford a tool they may only use every ten years or does not have a compressor available ,this may work for you. My ten cents,er, dollars worth.
Yep, I've seen this method work well.
-- Edited by Pontiacanada on Friday 11th of June 2010 05:27:14 AM
Thats the only way I have ever done it . I do not have a compressor or any air tools . In fact I have not used and air tool ever on my Beaumont. Took the whole car apart and reasembling with out power tools. I guess I am old school LoL.
Well I got the drivers side done it took me 2 hrs but I did it!!! I decided to use the umbrella seals plus the 'O' ring. The old O rings were junk. As soon as the spring was removed they all fell apart except one. Anyway here is the tool I bought at Carquest.... worked pretty well once I figured it out. The hose assembly the maint. guy at work helped me with. I used an old spark plug minus porcelain, force threaded in a small fitting to help with the welding to a coupling. Then a couple of SMC fittings, some line and a ball valve with air fittings to top it off. Worked awesome!!!!!!!!
You are one funny guy!!!!!!!!!
it took me 2 hrs but I did it!!! I decided to use the umbrella seals plus the 'O' ring. The old O rings were junk. As soon as the spring was removed they all fell apart except one
. Anyway here is the tool I bought at Carquest.... worked pretty well once I figured it out. The hose assembly the maint. guy at work helped me with. I used an old spark plug minus porcelain, force threaded in a small fitting to help with the welding to a coupling. Then a couple of SMC fittings, some line and a ball valve with air fittings to top it off. Worked awesome!!!!!!!!
