I just recieved a Disk brake setup from "Nova Brakes" Complete with no instructions just says can be installed in a couple of Hrs !! (quote) 1962 1963 Nova Complete Front Disc Kit. This is a True Bolt-on Disc 4 Lug Kit, bolts to OEM spindle, for 6 cylinder Novas. No mere going to junk cars and changing spindles and steering arms. The cost and the labor involved is history! This is a complete kit and it takes just a couple of hours to install. Also have power brake booster, master cylinder with a proportioning valve for the right combination, Disc/Drum or Disc/Disc.
my question is how do i remove the 2 bolts that are sticking through the firewall. and do i connect the front drakes to the proportioning valve seperatly, there are two holes at the front,one is blocked off - silver plug. other to the left of bottom bolt and im assuming the rear goes to the larger one that is adaped down . wish this thing had instructions.. thanks for any help..
they mesure the same as the ones sticking out, and i think i can remove the "rod" from the brake assembly part that pushes on the Master cyl and it will thread onto the new master CYL. Guess i will do it one step at a time. next i will have to lurn how to make new brake lines !!
thanks for the support
-- Edited by Lefty on Sunday 11th of July 2010 09:10:58 PM
Im also wondering what the tapered "washer like " parts are for.. I n\know what to do with the bearings etc but the washer or spacer puzzles me think it goes on before bearing "cap" to seal the outside part
Im also wondering what the tapered "washer like " parts are for.. I n\know what to do with the bearings etc but the washer or spacer puzzles me think it goes on before bearing "cap" to seal the outside part
The part in question is the seal for the bearing in the rotor. After you thoroughly grease the bearing and place it inside the rotor, then install the seal. It should be centered in the hole, covered with a small block of wood, then pounded in evenly.
Send me a PM with your email address and I will send you a couple of files (pdf & doc) that show how to install front disc brakes. They will not be specific to your Nova but all the components and procedures will be the same.
Dave
__________________
1956 Pontiac Pathfinder 2dr sedan, 496 - dyno'd 545 hp, stick shift, 4.11 posi - Hot Rod
Also it looks to me like you are missing the brackets which fit between the booster and the firewall - I do not belive that you should remove the existing bolts that protrude from the firewall. They are necessary. Here's my brackets (1956 so yours will differ):
See how the brackets attach to the studs coming out of the firewall, and the booster attaches to the booster studs? I believe that yours should be similar.
Dave
-- Edited by davelacourse on Monday 12th of July 2010 12:45:57 PM
__________________
1956 Pontiac Pathfinder 2dr sedan, 496 - dyno'd 545 hp, stick shift, 4.11 posi - Hot Rod
Also you will need to drill a new hole in the brake pedal arm to attach the clevis, in order to have proper pedal ratio for power brakes - again, send me your email address and I will send you instructions.
Dave
__________________
1956 Pontiac Pathfinder 2dr sedan, 496 - dyno'd 545 hp, stick shift, 4.11 posi - Hot Rod
picture is decieveing it looks like a seal ( i have those as well) but it is steel with a beveled edge (looks black in pic. expanded by carl) i will take a pic of everything
__________________
Surrey BC
1963 Acadian Beaumont Sport Deluxe http://www.63acadian.com/
talking to Menno, he said there is no bracket between the booser and the firewall because it would be too long and hit inner fender he said remove bolts and drill a new hole "ABOVE" where the studs were on the firewall. This will allow you to hang the brake assembly also drill out the lower hole for the new piece to mount to the firewall i thing the old push rod assembly minus the rod should line up without a problem (see pic) buy using the hole that is behind the brake switch. as for the stainless washer i believe it goes after the outer berring to "seal" it ??
thanks guys for all the help. too bad i did not have this stuff Sun Morning when i was at the new Westminister show cause i saw a chevy II with this booster in and could have looked closer, oh well there is another show this sun at the casino in Coquitlam
-- Edited by Lefty on Monday 12th of July 2010 02:16:06 PM
-- Edited by Lefty on Monday 12th of July 2010 02:16:22 PM
talking to Menno, he said there is no bracket between the booser and the firewall because it would be too long and hit inner fender he said remove bolts and drill a new hole "ABOVE" where the studs were on the firewall. This will allow you to hang the brake assembly also drill out the lower hole for the new piece to mount to the firewall i thing the old push rod assembly minus the rod should line up without a problem (see pic) buy using the hole that is behind the brake switch. as for the stainless washer i believe it goes after the outer berring to "seal" it ??
thanks guys for all the help. too bad i did not have this stuff Sun Morning when i was at the new Westminister show cause i saw a chevy II with this booster in and could have looked closer, oh well there is another show this sun at the casino in Coquitlam
-- Edited by Lefty on Monday 12th of July 2010 02:16:06 PM
-- Edited by Lefty on Monday 12th of July 2010 02:16:22 PM
Huh. No brackets and you have to remove studs and drill holes in firewall, eh? I would not be fond of that approach.
The place I got my disc brakes from also makes a kit for 62-67 Novas - and they include brackets that use the stock firewall studs and bolts up to their booster:
Well, if you have to drill holes, ask your supplier for a template. If they won't give you one, I would have a few choice words for them (then again, I would have some words for them for not including instructions on a kit that is complex enough that if you do it wrong it could kill you i.e. brakes failing on the road) ... but, setting side my feelings, if they won't give you one, at least make one yourself - take a piece of paper, cut a big hole in the middle the same size as your firewall hole, put it over the booster centered on the bellows, and make small (3/8" ? or whatever size of the bolts) in the exact location of the studs on the booster, and be sure to mark on firewall using template so the master cylinder will have top surface horizontal as looking from the front of the car.
The seals are the ones you show with orange paint on the edges, the other ones that are in question could be bearing races - do your rotors have races pressed into them? (inner bearing races are usually pressed into the rotor by the mfg.) - the tapered bearings must fit into matching tapered races - then usually there is a big spindle washer that goes on last after you put the rotor on the spindle, before putting on the spindle nut.
Here's a picture of how the parts usually go together:
Hope it goes well for you, Dan.
Dave
-- Edited by davelacourse on Monday 12th of July 2010 03:51:13 PM
__________________
1956 Pontiac Pathfinder 2dr sedan, 496 - dyno'd 545 hp, stick shift, 4.11 posi - Hot Rod
I am a dealer for them (and get REALLY good prices) but don't think we could drop ship to Canada - these kits are HEAVY and shipping is quite high - plus customs issues etc.
Dave
__________________
1956 Pontiac Pathfinder 2dr sedan, 496 - dyno'd 545 hp, stick shift, 4.11 posi - Hot Rod
here is my progress so far bolts from original pedal assembly came out easy when i put a socket in a vice and used it to support the bracket then i drilled the new holes in firewall i am going to have to look closely at the new assembly because it is stightly of level so i hope i can adjust it without ovaling the holes in firewall
1956 Pontiac Pathfinder 2dr sedan, 496 - dyno'd 545 hp, stick shift, 4.11 posi - Hot Rod
