Does any one know of a bolt-in dual master that will work on my 1960 Stratochief Sedan? Canadian, 119" wheelbase car. Just got it and all brakes are shot. Considering that the master is probably crap also, instead of replacing it with a pricey stock one or even rebuilding, what would work in a dual reservoir style? No forseeable plans for power or discs as of yet, as it seems the car is a bit(read alot) less solid than I was originally led to believe. The factory master is the really old style cast body with a screw-on top and 4 bolts holding it to the firewall. Later ones(as I recall from my old 63 Parisienne, which had factory pb)had a single reservoir with a 2-bolt attaching arrangement to the front of the booster. Any brainiacs care to enlighten me?
I should also ask, if anyone knows part numbers or applications to convert the ball bearing front hubs to a tapered style bearing? Is it a matter of knocking out the old races and putting new ones in for tapered brgs. or different hubs altogether? I'm aware that the 61 and up front hubs have them, but is the hub a different design, or just a different bearing/race combo?
I think '66 Chevelle (one year only) had a dual master for drum brakes all around, but I believe it was only a two bolt piece. Don't know if it will work for your application>
A dual master cylinder from a 67-68 full size drum brake car will bolt up; at least it did on my 62. Getting it to work will be a different matter. You may need a distribution fitting from the later car as well.
in my 63 parsienne, i used a set up from a early mid 80s caprice, used the master cy. and proportion valve. new lines, bleed the system, worked fine, way safer and cheap!
i believe your right about it being 2 bolts
-- Edited by ga on Wednesday 29th of December 2010 01:33:08 AM
no it lined up and the only fabbing was making the center hole a bit bigger, a couple passes with a rasp, did the job, everything else was the same, i took the master and proportioning valve from the same car, and hooked it up with lines and blead the system just like it had always been there, worked fine
Shouldn't need a porportioning valve if it's all drum brakes. I used a 70 chevelle Drum, master on the 64 Cat, ran b/line down to origanal brass brake junction. Put a plug in the hole where the rear b/line was remover,then ran a new line from B/master rear section to original rear line & "spliced" it there!!! I removed the rubber boot that went on back of M/cyl. as there was no room there for it. Worked fine
__________________
Some times I wake up GRUMPY, but today I let her sleep in !!!!!!!!BLACKSTOCK Ont.
I'm in the process of putting a conversion kit on my 55 gmc with a single master under the cab. the kit comes with an adapter bracket to run the same pedal and includes a dual master and they said if i'm not running disc on the front i don't need a proportioning valve.
probably the case, my car had 4 wheel drums, and i asume that the the transplant car has front disks, its been 10 years since i did the swap. at the time i discussed with my mechanic , and it was decided the proportioning valve wouldnt hurt, but may not be required, but used it anyway
I used Master cylinder # 36239 (line NUP) from Napa list was $190 (May 2009) I think it was for a 66-67 full size chev with drums on all four. Power Booster was factory on our 63. I don't know about the length of the pushrod?? And as you can see, Barry just made a seperate bracket for the proportioning valve, and mounted it below.
The bearing hub assy. from the 62-67 Chev/ Can Pon. with the tapered bearing is a bolt on for the 55-57 chev/Can Pon so I would think it would be a bolt on for up to 61. You should be able to buy a set of hub assy. in good useable condition for under $100. Keep in mind you can buy a complete manual disc brake conversion kit for your car for about $400. If you need brake shoes and drums add this to the cost of the hub assy. and you will be close to the cost of a disc brake kit. There is nothing wrong with the original roller bearing as long as you do regular wheel bearing repacking and keep the correct air pressure in your tires. The number one cause of wheel bearing failure in our cars is a simple lack of grease.