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Post Info TOPIC: Pro-street/bracket car parts?


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Pro-street/bracket car parts?


Hi All
Just thought to put it out to the membership, and I'm still not exactly sure which way I'll go, but wondering if there is any used stuff out there.  I'm not restoring, as my Invader is already modified, and am going the street/prostreet/bracket racer route. I just got a complete straight axle set-up, from an ex-racecar '64 Nova, including disc brakes etc, and would like stronger front clip "frames", though I can use the stock ones ok. so, I don't have to change my oil pump, pan etc from the '68 smallblock i am using. And,  I already have a rollbar and frame connectors.
Also, for future mods, looking for caltrac traction bars to fit the monoleafs, rear airshocks (going over the rear superwides), possibly fiberglass one piece front end (if I got one of those, I have a real nice solid front clip for somebody!)
 This is gonna be a sunnytime town driver, occasional bracketracer, and a "different" look for local carshows.
lmk, thanks, daryle.

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were just talking here but why airshocks if you plan on taking it to the track, put coilovers and be done with it,
the adjustability alone is worth it. I've never seen super wides with a monoleaf, that sucker is going to try wrapping hard,
have others done what your planning. But if it works i learned something new. Dan.

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Addicted!

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Thanks for the tips, I would use coilovers if I change the rear end to a narrowed one, but staying stock for now. This is sort of a repeat of one of my early (1969) projects, had a '66 Nova with straight axle and wide tires. I learned from that one, for sure.  Old school, I ended up with 10 1/2 inch rear tires  on  10 inch chrome reverse wheels, and had the wheel hop/wrapup you'd expect. Traction bars fixed that problem. I have used Caltracs recently on a couple of steet/strip applications with great success, and don't expect any spring problems. As for the airshocks, I should mention that they are only used to gain about 3 inches of height, with firmness, so that the rear tires stay clear of the fender lips, not to skyjack the car.  My street tires are 10.50 x15 x26, quite short so don't have to go too high, (they only hang out about an inch from the body) and the 15 inch wides would only be put on for a show, not for normal driving.
The "straight" axle I am using is actually a drop axle, so my car will end up only a few inches above stock height, and when my finances allow, tubbing and a narrowed rear end , along with dropped spindles will let me put the car down easily later, if i don't want the attention the raised car might get.
Since my track use is strictly bracket racing, what the cars runs is what it runs, and the driver/car consistency is what wins those races, so I don't need every bit of horsepower or traction I could get. Lineloc is used for the burnout, and transbrakes are too hard on near stock parts.  I tend to ease off the line (gentle brakestand) and then power on thru the gears, in fact I normally leave it in drive rather than manually shifting the automatic.
Hopefully it will all work out, a pretty big project for me, but got lots of help too, if I need it.

thanks, daryle.


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