1970 Pontiac 350 Firebird engines are all 2 barrel, no 4 barrel firebirds, only available with the 400 engines. Only 2 codes 350 for 1970 located in front of the block, passenger side should be YU, Y denotes an auto. trans. car, a WU would be for a standard trans. W for stick shift Pontiac cars...

http://www.yearone.com/updatedsinglepages/id_info/pontiacengineid/pontengid1.html

-- Edited by pontorquer on Sunday 13th of February 2011 09:17:32 PM

A 4 barrel intake and carb, a better cam and headers would give it alot more HP, that's for sure.

$ 1.00 per pound

I picked up a 72 ready to run,intake to pan without carb for 500$ including trans last year, I do have a 70-350 with high comp heads balanced rotating assembly long block that was 500$ also...hope this helps...

I sold a running 350 for $300,, sold a running 400 for $800...... ( american pontiacs )

80GPLJ wrote:

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Well bought the 350 for $400 but there were a lot of other stuff to go with it, dropped block, heads , and crank off to machine shop for finishing - hope it works out

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 Fair price..

I sell 350, 400 Pontaic cranks for $150.00 and a Block (depending on the codes) with connecting rods for $$300.00 and Thats stripped down and tanked..

You will have alot more power than that boat anchor 301.... sorry but they are a horrible engine... but thats in my mind

On your 350  ... Why are you giving it a line bore?  Different caps or???? 
And It would be a good idea to have the crank cross drilled and then use the right bearings for that.. That crank is the same the 400's use.. and don't let anyone talk you into a high volume oil pump..... 

If you can use a 3/4 length windage tray or at least a half .. (bolts onto the caps
and if they will give you the block before they do all the work to it get into the lifter gallery with a die grinder and smooth out all the flashing so your oil will make it down to the pump faster...

Pete

When you bring it in to the machinist he will check your caps.. When he does it after the block is cleaned and ready for the CK10 or what ever he is using to bore it out to 30 over.. He should torque on your main caps to spec and check with his dial gauge whether or not they are out of round.. if so then it will need a line bore as you will have to cut the caps then line bore it back to spec.. or if you change your caps they will need to be cut and then line bore also... But usually thats the only reason you need one...

Beaumont4008 wrote:

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the70judge wrote:

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When you bring it in to the machinist he will check your caps.. When he does it after the block is cleaned and ready for the CK10 or what ever he is using to bore it out to 30 over.. He should torque on your main caps to spec and check with his dial gauge whether or not they are out of round.. if so then it will need a line bore as you will have to cut the caps then line bore it back to spec.. or if you change your caps they will need to be cut and then line bore also... But usually thats the only reason you need one...

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Just wondering if you would also need your pistons before you take the block to the machine shop so he can get the proper piston clearance. DO they bore less than 30 over and hone to correct clearance for your pistons.

 

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You will need your pistions and rings for them before they do your cylinders,
Don't forget to ask him if he has ever built a BOP engine... They are GM but still a rare breed when it comes to putting them together...