i did mine with tremclad and if i was to do it again i would use por15. i liked the rust paint for touch ups but the por15 really gets into the nooks and crannies of the rust on the frame.
POR 15 is pretty good but a marine or industrial urathane will work great and it's cheaper. It's gloss black not semigloss. I was told with the low VOC paints now the urathane flattener is a thing of the past. The other thing is I find if you thin down POR to make it sprayable it has coverage problems. I only brush paint por now. Paul.
hi take tremclad closs black mix it with 25% flat black .... i also use automotive hardner any brand mix a little to gethier to make sure the hardner and paint DO NOT REACT ... let it dry to make sure it is the right gloss or flatness ...with hardner drys really nice
I've used POR15. No need to spray it as a hair or bristle brush, or one of those sponge brushes is all that is needed. POR15 flows out very well so leaves no brush marks. As always with POR15 be careful with what you get it on as it don't come off.
I'm not 100% sure about POR 15. My experience is with a product called Chassis Saver. It's supposed to be almost exactly the same as POR 15. Anyway, I used it to paint the frame of my Mack truck and some rear bumper/trailer hitches on some Kenworth trucks. The Mack frame was freshly sandblasted and well prepared but after three years there is rust starting to come through the paint, almost as if the paint wasn't completely waterproof. The bumpers on the Kenworths were not quite as well prepped and most of that paint was completely gone after two years. To be fair, I should point out that the Kenworths run well over 200,000 miles a year but I know from past experience I could get similar or probably better results from a cheap tremclad style paint. I've also painted frames with proper two part automotive paint and they still look great even after two years on a high mileage truck. Again, the stuff I used wasn't POR 15 but it's very similar. The finish is as tough as nails but once rust gets under it, it starts to flake off. It's also a bit hard to work with. The fumes are strong if you spray it and if you get it on your hands it's hard to wash off. It also tends to get chalky looking where it's exposed to sunlight. My opinion is that it's probably fine for a car that's just driven in the summer but I don't think it's anywhere near as good as a quality automotive paint. But again I've got to say that my experience was not with POR 15 but with a similar product.
-- Edited by jim_ss409 on Monday 9th of April 2012 10:05:11 PM
POR (Paint Over Rust) is to be painted over rust, not bare, clean metal. If you paint over bare, clean metal, you need to put a adhesion primer first. POR - 15 reacts with rust and that's where it's strengh lies.
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Prince Edward Island
'64 Parisienne CS "barn find" - last on the road in '86 ... Owner Protection Plan booklet, original paint, original near-mint aqua interior, original aqua GM floor mats, original 283, factory posi, and original rust.
i got the metal prep and the degreaser that goes with the paint , there is not much bare metal on a 45 year ild frame i must say .
gonna get to it today , see how it goes , and if i have enought left i will do my 2010 car trailer thats getting all rusty all ready , wow those factory paints on trailers realy impress me !
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1967 BEAUMONT 2 DOOR POST ALL NEW 283
1965 CHEV BEL AIR 230 3 SPEED
I LIKE THEM PLAIN , I LOVE BENCH SEATS , POVERTY CAPS,NO TRIM.
I HAVE THIS THING FOR A 4 DOOR 65 BISCAYNE 6 CYL STD DONT KNOW WHY ?
