Fired the HO350 today, started right away...but is trying to drive forward in all gears, park and neutral included. No reverse. TH400 was in for seals, pump, shift shaft, speedo and tailshaft, thats it. I'm using a Kugel shift rod and quadrant. All the detents line up with the dash positions corectly. Park is park. Fluid its topped. It pumps through the lines (they are warm..and no leaks!). Had the rear end up and it drives a wheel, forward only. Modulator is hooked up. It starts like it is in drive..which it is.
I'll talk to my trans guy Monday, and if it has to come out then so be it (for the second time no less) but my hope is somthing in the selector is mis-assembled or buggered. Trans worked perfectly when pulled. Now has a B+M Holeshot 2000 converter and it was installed correctly as far as I can tell.
The one thing I can offer, is when I was tightening the Kugel shift arm spline cup onto the trans selector rod, the shaft rotated clockwise and made a pop as it went beyond the park position. It went back no issue, but I was a little worried by it.
Any thoughts?
-- Edited by cdnpont on Sunday 24th of June 2012 12:37:13 PM
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65 Laurentian post, 67 Grande Parisienne 4 door HT.
disconnect that linkage at the tranny and try shifting it manually by hand, if still there, trannys gotta come out, hey we took one outta race car 3 times in one day and that included tearing into it. Dan
I'll get it up and pull the pan, my hope is its just somthing stuck or undone. Can anyone give any details on what I might see? I know there is a "Rooster comb" for the detents and a park rod that runs towards the back, but how are the gears selected in the valve body, does the shaft go right into it, or is there some sort of rod assembly?
Cheers, Mark
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65 Laurentian post, 67 Grande Parisienne 4 door HT.
Mark, I expect the click you heard is the linkage either coming off the "quadrant" or the manual valve. Basically, the manual valve is stuck in the "D" range area weather it be D, 2 or 1.
Mark, I expect the click you heard is the linkage either coming off the "quadrant" or the manual valve. Basically, the manual valve is stuck in the "D" range area weather it be D, 2 or 1.
The manual valve directs fluid accordingly!
We can hope! It's probably exactly that. Now comes the chore of removing the pan...should have bought one with a drain plug when it was out!
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65 Laurentian post, 67 Grande Parisienne 4 door HT.
Problem solved!!! Just as you guys had offered, sure enough the selector pin had come out of the spool and it was in the drive position. The cause was the Rooster comb flopping around...the casle nut behind was totaly loose! Pay somone to do a job (trans seals) and this is what you get. The picture shows the detent lever in park. So now the car actually idles since it isn't against the converter. But there was one more thing that was scaring me, there was a ringing/scraping sound coming from the bellhousing area, turns out it was the counterweight on the flexplate (One piece seal) hitting the 67 TH400 metal converter cover. Removed, I stopped sweating. I have a 69 plastic cover from a TH350...will it fit?
Engine refuses to get above 160 while idling, 14.5 volts at the meter and 50 psi oil pressure at idle. Sounds nice!
Check out my homemade fluid catch can, worked perfect!
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65 Laurentian post, 67 Grande Parisienne 4 door HT.
I had the same thing with my 1965 Bonneville .. first test drive after 30 years .. (3 years resto) ..I sit in my car with registry liscence plates and started the engine..all runs well ..the cars runs forward on the street .."smile" ..but not reward .. .. back in the garage..removed the trans pan ...nd looked and looked ..after some time i saw that big shaft is not going back in the hole ... so i removed the shift shaft linkage carefully and it was okay ..easy thing ..but it`s difficult know if you change the first time the shift shaft seal at an TH 400 ..the Powerglide or TH350 is much easier ..
I thought that was the problem