I just repaced and flashed my generator after a clean-up and lube. Battery is putting out 5.7 to 6.4 volts. Turned the key, hit the starter button and nothing, except the dome light dimmed considerably. So, I turned off the key and pushed the starter button and the dome light dimmed. I am confused. Checked voltages between the negative terminal and the block, starter, heater core shroud and all contacts returned voltages as above. Any idea why the starter button would draw power when the ignition is in the off position? I'm thinking a short somewhere. Also, the previous owner bypassed the neutralization switch by hooking the two leads together on one terminal of the switch. It appears that this modification will allow the car to be started in gear, but that would only confuse new drivers or crooks, I suppose. Horn works, although the sound is noticeably diminished and growly. Headlights work, fan works, starter don't work. Can't claim to be on the 'horns of a dilemma', due to the fact that mine works, but I sure as heck am confused and head-scratchin'...,
Thanks,
R.
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Rousifier - 1952 Chieftain Deluxe, 4 Door Sedan, Survivor
Actually, I researched that today, Carl. My best information is that a 12v battery will fry everything if not only momentarily connected while the starter is engaged and drawing power. I am on my own and my wife is not particularly comfortable with arcing contacts for fun. What a coward. Besides, a 12v battery won't fit in my skinny, 6v, tractor holder. I am currently (pun intended) charging a 6v RV battery to hook up along with the original skinny three cell to see if she'll turn over...,
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Rousifier - 1952 Chieftain Deluxe, 4 Door Sedan, Survivor
Any advice as to how, exactly, to do a 'load test' would be appreciated, as would info on the 8 volt batteries that may be available, locally. I am still at a loss as to how my charging system experiences a load when the starter button is depressed and the ignition is off, however, and surmise that the answer to that question might be the solution...,/
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Rousifier - 1952 Chieftain Deluxe, 4 Door Sedan, Survivor
I don't think so, Px. Thinner wire goes to field and heavier gauge to armature, so I read. Also, I had marked the thinner one with a tape marked 'top', which indicated to me that it was the one that hooked up higher on the generator body when it was removed.
Thanks
R.
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Rousifier - 1952 Chieftain Deluxe, 4 Door Sedan, Survivor
use a volt meter to test how much volts left in the battery while hitting the stater button, AND perform at the same time a amps test with a clamp amps meter. If the reading of the voltage is low with the amps reading high (over 150 and more) the problem is from the starter, maybe ground, stuck or something. If the voltage of the battery stay the same (or mostly the same) and no or near no amps draw, your wiring maybe the trouble. Remember, the wiring is very weak now 65 years old later. I found many electrical problem only by the wiring to old.
good luck.
Fitz.
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www.FitzbackGarage.com Look for Easy Steering in your vintage Poncho, Look for the EasyDrive Power Steering System in the web site
Remove the f and r from the generator and tape ends of wire separately and try the starter. If everything worked before , look for the gremlin at the last place you fed it, " check generator for a short to the casing"
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pontiax- (canadian pontiac X frame)1964 Parisienne 2dr. Hardtop ,lagoon aqua metallic (Q) ,421 cid Dart Industries block and heads. 550 hp. 575 ft lb of torque.
Whoa, Carl, now you're talkin'!!!! Where would one find a car buddy of similar description out here in the hinterlands? Hell, we're so remote out here on the frozen prairies that most of my buddies are dog sledders. From the tone of your message, I take it where you live you have that new-fangled telephone service? Damn. Did I mention that my '52 is one of the newer cars in town? That's to say, the other two are a little older...,
Fitz, grab your gear and get over here. The coffee's on!!
Regards and thanks,
Rous.
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Rousifier - 1952 Chieftain Deluxe, 4 Door Sedan, Survivor
Pontiax, I'll try that this morning and let you know what happens. I'm still wondering how it can be that the draw is there with the ignition switch in the off position. I think Fitz is in Mb. If he leaves now, he could be here in a coupla' days. :)
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Rousifier - 1952 Chieftain Deluxe, 4 Door Sedan, Survivor
BTW, who's coming out to Didsbury on May 11 for our Show 'n Shine? I'd sure like to meet some of you fellows and see your cars. Last year we had about 250 cars here, I believe. Got a fridge full of beer and an endless supply of coffee.
Regards Rous.
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Rousifier - 1952 Chieftain Deluxe, 4 Door Sedan, Survivor
Whoa, Carl, now you're talkin'!!!! Where would one find a car buddy of similar description out here in the hinterlands? Hell, we're so remote out here on the frozen prairies that most of my buddies are dog sledders. From the tone of your message, I take it where you live you have that new-fangled telephone service? Damn. Did I mention that my '52 is one of the newer cars in town? That's to say, the other two are a little older...,
Fitz, grab your gear and get over here. The coffee's on!!
Original settlement in the area was sparse, and this in part explains the initial slow development of the town-site as a service centre. The first concern of the Mennonite settlers was to build a church; and the primary task of the settlers was to create farmsteads. Settlement prior to the post-1900 land rush was limited to the small group who came west in 1894.
1897 saw the arrival of the Canadian Pacific Railway, which pushed forward the town's development. The CPR constructed a station in the town in 1904. Didsbury was incorporated as a village in 1905 and as a town on September 6, 1906.
Fires in 1914 and 1924 destroyed the early "boomtown" commercial streetscape and led to the passing by Town Council of a bylaw which required masonry construction for all new downtown commercial buildings. Many of these brick buildings stand today.
So, I pulled the two leads off the generator and still nothing. Same dimming of dome light when starter button is pushed, ignition on or off. Will try another 6v battery in parallel, even though this old one is still putting out 6v. Then, I suppose it's off with the starter. Sixty-five year old wiring is absolutely right, Fitz. If one is going to try to bypass the starter circuit, I recall that two of the starter connections can be shorted with a screwdriver - can't remember which two, though. Anyone know that trick? Thanks, R.
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Rousifier - 1952 Chieftain Deluxe, 4 Door Sedan, Survivor
Hello Rousifier, Mike here finally got on site sounds as if you have a bad short somewhere but if you get the chance after you get this corrected the 8 volt battery is a good idea it gives you the extra cranking power, and all you have to do is reset you voltage regulator to 8.5 volts to have sufficent charge for your battery I went this route with mine. I may need some more parts get in touch with me if you have time Boomer
the wire on the generator aren't in relation with the starter system. A 8 volts battery don't help very much. A 8 volts battery will be recharge at 7 volts like a 6 votls battery after a while and give you the performences of a 6 votls battery, unless you do ajust your voltage regulator to 8.5/9votls, BUTall the electrical parts of the car will either fry on a long run (lights) or don't show the information correctly. «don't try this at home»!!!!
Use a big screwdriver between the 2 big connector on the stater, ok the solenoide will not engage, but you will see if your stater can turn, if not, like I said earlier, the stater can be the problem.
Don't move keep the coffee warm, I fill up the Victory and I'm with you in a minute or two!
Fitz.
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www.FitzbackGarage.com Look for Easy Steering in your vintage Poncho, Look for the EasyDrive Power Steering System in the web site
Thank you all. I just found out that my local UFA has the 3eh, long skinny battery available and will pick up a new one first thing tomorrow, for $109. Acklands want $158, my local A&A $135, Peavy Mart $119. When I left the battery sit overnight it was down to 2 1/2 volts. So time for a change. Will keep you posted and thanks for all your help. Regards, Rick
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Rousifier - 1952 Chieftain Deluxe, 4 Door Sedan, Survivor
Thanks, HWSCowboy. I think I may have it licked with the new battery. I am vacillating at the moment whether to drain the tank and refill it, since it's almost empty, or to just top it up with new fresh gas and give 'er...,
I have no idea how long the old gas has been in there, could be 10+ years.
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Rousifier - 1952 Chieftain Deluxe, 4 Door Sedan, Survivor
Glad to hear you might have the problem solved, I know I'm getting antsie to get mine on the road, Hopfully she will be home from plastic surgery soon, just got a sample for the interior last week and looks good all the mechanical end is done new wheel cylinders,master cyl, new gas tank all new lines gas and brake runs quite well lifters are a little noisey but again it has not run alot in the last 10yrs
Wow, good for you! I did all wheel cylinders, master cyl., new oil, plugs, cleaned generator, new battery, lubed pistons, and new antifreeze prior to turning mine over. After a little thought, I am now going to drain and dispose of all old fuel and start with fresh stuff. I checked my coil this morning and on a 2000 ohm setting it measured 10.25 from the middle wire to each of the side terminals and 0 between the two outside wires. Looking to find out if those are good readings for the coil.
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Rousifier - 1952 Chieftain Deluxe, 4 Door Sedan, Survivor
Just re-checked my coil on the proper scale and resistance between the two low tension studs is 01.6 ohms. Can anyone advise if that's within normal range? Thanks, Rous.
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Rousifier - 1952 Chieftain Deluxe, 4 Door Sedan, Survivor
