Be carefull Jim,you think you can handle that much
horsey power?My buddy is holding my 6 banger outta mine in
Alberta you can have it.
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"The pursuit of perfection is frustrating and a waste of time because nothing is ever perfect. The pursuit of excellence is commendable and worth while. Therefore strive for excellence, not perfection"
Turkey last night, think I was stuffed more than the turkey! Got to play with the car a bit today, my neighbour came over( car guy but Chrysler guy) and gave me a hand putting in the motor and we didn't even scratch the paint on the firewall. She's in, sort of. Still need engine mounts and cross member which I will make.
what oil pan are you using ? the truck pans hang down so low. my buddy that has done 3 of these swaps has started using the Holley pan and pick up , nice piece but a tad pricey..
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later...rog
AADD supporting member !!
I'm a collector...not a builder!!Located in sunny central Saskatchewan at the lakehead!
Not a 100% sure yet. Going to make a carboard template and see if I can section the truck pan and shorten the pickup tube. Should be ok if it will work since the truck pans are 6L so I should only lose a litre or so. Will also be using the fuel/trans lines out of the truck, everything I can to save a buck
when you pull the pickup tube,, pay close attention to the O ring. if it isn't perfect , the oil pump will starve and you will have low oil pressure ...
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later...rog
AADD supporting member !!
I'm a collector...not a builder!!Located in sunny central Saskatchewan at the lakehead!
Thanks Rog and Brad. Brad I think that pan is for a first gen and I need one for a third gen, don't know why they call them both 5.3- 327? but thanks for the link to the site. Think this is the one I need same as GTO pan ( owch ), but the cookie jar is getting low so I will try to modify mine first. Rog: I will make sure I put in a new o-ring,thanks for the tip.
Chevrolet Performance 12581209 - Chevrolet Performance Production-Style Oil Pans
The Chevrolet Performance Production-Style Oil Pans are designed to keep the oil, your engine's lifeblood, where it belongs. These properly designed and manufactured oil pans fit right and, along with the proper gaskets, prevent leaks for years of trouble-free service!
Note: Oil pans are sold without dipsticks or other hardware unless otherwise specified.
Some progress today/night, fuel pickup line almost done just need to silver solder ( tip: filled fuel line with sand blast sand and pluged at each end so it wouldn't kink while bending ). Have to go 3/8 with the fuel inj but didn't want to buy a new tank with all the expensive pumps etc and my old tank was all shiny paint!!! Added a new 3/8 line to org sending unit and put a bevel on the bottom so it wouldn't suck to the bottom of the tank, will use the orig 5/16 supply as the return line. Also cut down the truck computer box so it will fit a little closer to the fenderwell. Have seen them mounted directly to the fenderwell but I dont think it would get enough cooling so I opted on the safe side. Figured out that I can use org accell pedal ( ya hoo ), will just have to make a bracket on the block to hold cable and an adaptor on the accel lever. Will get this all figured out and then tackle the oil pan.
-- Edited by hawkeye5766 on Sunday 19th of October 2014 03:43:07 AM
Thanks Roger, running the Carter P5000 my buddy that has done a couple of conversions has used this pump with no issues.
Brand:Carter
Manufacturer's Part Number:P5000
Part Type:Fuel Pumps, Electric External
Product Line:Carter In-Line MFI Fuel Pumps
Summit Racing Part Number:CRT-P5000
UPC:614046332454
Free Flow Rate:45 gph
Maximum Pressure (psi):75 psi
Inlet Size:5/8-18 in.
Inlet Quantity:One
Inlet Attachment:Female threads
Outlet Size:3/8-24 in.
Outlet Quantity:One
Outlet Attachment:Female threads
Quantity:Sold individually.
Notes:Incudes 3/8 in. nipple fitting for inlet to and 5/8-18 in. inverted flare fitting for outlet to connect to 3/8 in. hard line.
Well a good week on the install, ended up buying the engine mount kit since the motor plates were only an extra 50 ontop of the motor mounts and I couldn't buy the plate steel and make them for that. Got the fuel pickup line silver solderd, throtle linkage made and hooked up and got my trans crossmember made. Had to remember some of my trigonometry and carpenter skills from years back( rise/run ) but managed to get the crossmember built and it fit!!!Felt like a kid again drawing on the floor with chalk, the tabs on the end of the crossmember will be welded to the frame connectors. Looked at the wiring harness and just about sh#$, but once I laid it out and looked at the diagram it doesn't seem all that bad. Painless isnt all that painless when you have to pay for it.
Roger: does your bud do all his own wiring or buy the kits with the fuse/relay panel? I've seen the kits up to 1600!!!!!!
my buddy has disected the factroy harness each time.. he is working on the next one and is going to lay it all out on a 4 x 8 sheet of plywood as a template .. make the next ones easy peezy.. with the one he is doing now, is going just be the bare bones engine management.. then run a main power to an accessory fuse panel for all the interior doings .. AC windows.. etc.
I also have a card for a guy in Saskatoon that makes them ..seen his work when I was in Red Deer.. very nice and not as pricey as painless
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later...rog
AADD supporting member !!
I'm a collector...not a builder!!Located in sunny central Saskatchewan at the lakehead!
Also going to run an extra fuse box with a relay to it from Ign. Don't think the orig fuseboxcould handle all the extra circuts,pumps, fans, comp etc. Bit more progress. Cross member tacked into place(only have a 110 welder)
Well, made my own conversion kit for the shifter linkage. Took a bit to get the trans arm and rod to work with the throw on the stock shifter, but worked out in the end.Don't think they make a kit that you can use with a stock shifter ,only cable with their shifter.
-- Edited by hawkeye5766 on Friday 14th of November 2014 03:07:32 AM
I have a young friend who built a 6.0L LS this summer (in a real 88 Monte SS)
car seems to have a handling issue It goes hard right, and then hard left, and then hard right again, all the while leaving black marks for the rear MT sticky tires
Thanks Carl, Nice Monte SS.Looks like it goes like sh@$! Does he have 4l60/80 or 700r4? Went away from the EFI and cumputer so I'm guessing 700r4. A guy I talked to tonight said that if you want to run your fuel lines on pass side like an old gen chev just flip your fuel rails around( tiny bit of mod). Goes from back on left to front on right. Wish I would have known a week ago.
-- Edited by hawkeye5766 on Saturday 15th of November 2014 12:12:46 AM
Thought I would keep you guys up to date on progress. Shifter and linkage all in and working, had to fudge the N/S switch a bit but got the orig to work in P,N,R. Found a ECM bracket out of a 2000 blazer that was flat on the back so I didn't have to fab my own, think S10 and Sonoma use the same bracket. Got my air intake fabbed up, used a 01 Astro van air box with the 2000 air tube and a off shore 90. Would be so much easier to run electric fans.
Waiting for some parts so I figured I might as well start to tackle the wiring. My son and I spent about 2 hr marking all the wires so I can unpin them to delete the ones I don't need and re-route the others. Also had to modify my water pump so that I could run the truck fan, the orig water neck would have hit my air intake. Bought an elbow and got my buddy to tig weld it( I'm to shaky).
Good stuff! Cool water pump mod ... got rid of some steel.
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Prince Edward Island
'64 Parisienne CS "barn find" - last on the road in '86 ... Owner Protection Plan booklet, original paint, original near-mint aqua interior, original aqua GM floor mats, original 283, factory posi, and original rust.
Nice work on the pump.I know it's a little late now, but you should look into 07 up truck water pump, the outlet comes out more to the side than the top but still same pulley depth to work with the accessories.
Might be a little easier to find if a replacement is needed.
Wiring is done,sectioned bat box so I could get PS cap off, rad mounted,trans cooler & lines mounted, pulled motor for cam and paint. Had to put hood on, after I mounted rad I thought crap, rad cap is going to hit. All is good 1 in clearance. Also had to buy fancy headers but way cheaper than long tubes. Be nice to get back onto bodywork, what I enjoy most. Getting there.