Many changes have been made since last summer to prepare for this weekend's Peach-City Beach Cruise in Penticton. Just getting the final details finished before the show this weekend. Let's just say... you'll hear me coming at least 6 blocks away before you see me! ...Gonna be fun!!!
How do you like your Wilwoods? What master did you use?
Thanks. The stopping power of those Wildwood brakes is like apples to oranges ...compared to the stock 4 wheel (non power assist) setup I had. I would highly recommend that kit to anyone. The spindels are still stock drum. The kit includes an adapter plate that just bolts onto the drum spindel. The wheels are in the exact same location width wise as before the mod.
The master cylinder is a factory correct disc Delco model (no power assist).
The ONLY issue I encountered was... the wheel studs were 1/2" (I'm assuming for greater strength) My mags would only accept stock 7/16" studs. So... I had to take all x10 studs to a machine shop and have them turned down and re-threaded. (another hidden expense!)
Also added the Wildwood stainless braided brake lines (highly recommend by Wilwood).
Absolutely NO plans to upgrade to discs on the rear in the future. It stops well already (and I'm not road racing)...just cruising @7MPG! ;o)
__________________
"you can't burn out, if your not on fire" -Jim Morrison
ok I have the factory front disks so switching to new wildwood kit for front I can use my spindles correct and not worry about my stock 15in. ralley wheels ?
NOT an issue with clearance Marshalldude. But you must specify what type of spindles you have before ordering (drum or disk). I purchased my kit via Hot Rods+Customs in Chilliwack, BC. ...because they are direct dealers of Summit Racing. (I found Summit had the best prices).
The discs I have are dual piston. Unfortunately, my 15" mags will not accept the larger 4 piston style.
The discs I have are intended to fit most 15" mags.
HAVE FUN convincing the wife you "really need them!" lol!
__________________
"you can't burn out, if your not on fire" -Jim Morrison
That sounds a little risky. I thought wheel studs were hardened steel . When they're machined, the hardening comes off as well, as its only about .010''-.030'' thick. Just a thought.
Awesome car !
That sounds a little risky. I thought wheel studs were hardened steel . When they're machined, the hardening comes off as well, as its only about .010''-.030'' thick. Just a thought. Awesome car !
Wheel studs from what I know are Grade 8 material.
They are medium carbon alloy steel and are hardened through, not case hardened,
which means you are not removing a hardened "skin".
The interior of a Grade 8 is not softer.
The threads on Grade 8 studs are rolled/formed (squeezed) and not machined.This makes for the threads to be compressed and strong.
In theory if you machine the thread, you are interrupting the grain structure of the steel,and you could be leaving stress risers (sharp areas),
that some say weaken the material.
The weakest area of any Grade 8 bolt or stud is the minor diameter of the threads.
If the thread dimensions of a cut thread were cut with precision the same as a rolled thread fastener and if they are identical in specs,
there should be absolutely no difference in strength.
If these studs were cut on a CNC machine,I would say that this so called weakening is probably a misconception.
As a side note:
"Too low a torque will cause the stud to pick up more load more often and eventually cycle it to failure.Therefore,you want to make
sure you torque your studs to the right torque specs using a torque wrench...and make sure to torque dry,clean threads.
Lubricated threads can significantly change the actual preload on the stud and you could risk over torquing it."
-- Edited by Greaser on Thursday 19th of June 2014 12:16:53 AM
Sounds like some very nice upgrades there Kyle. Hope to make it down on Saturday for a couple hours so will try look you up and check it out. Forecast looks really good.
That sounds a little risky. I thought wheel studs were hardened steel . When they're machined, the hardening comes off as well, as its only about .010''-.030'' thick. Just a thought. Awesome car !
Wheel studs from what I know are Grade 8 material.
They are medium carbon alloy steel and are hardened through, not case hardened,
which means you are not removing a hardened "skin".
The interior of a Grade 8 is not softer.
The threads on Grade 8 studs are rolled/formed (squeezed) and not machined.This makes for the threads to be compressed and strong.
In theory if you machine the thread, you are interrupting the grain structure of the steel,and you could be leaving stress risers (sharp areas),
that some say weaken the material.
The weakest area of any Grade 8 bolt or stud is the minor diameter of the threads.
If the thread dimensions of a cut thread were cut with precision the same as a rolled thread fastener and if they are identical in specs,
there should be absolutely no difference in strength.
If these studs were cut on a CNC machine,I would say that this so called weakening is probably a misconception.
As a side note:
"Too low a torque will cause the stud to pick up more load more often and eventually cycle it to failure.Therefore,you want to make
sure you torque your studs to the right torque specs using a torque wrench...and make sure to torque dry,clean threads.
Lubricated threads can significantly change the actual preload on the stud and you could risk over torquing it."
...Thanks for providing that info Greaser. That's sounds similar to what the machine shop told me when I handed them the task. I'm going to assume the threads where cut on the lathe (because the machinist said it took approx. 15min each stud) @2.5hrs total labour charged. haha! ...Hope I make it to Penticton with all x4 tires still attached!
-- Edited by Greaser on Thursday 19th of June 2014 12:16:53 AM
__________________
"you can't burn out, if your not on fire" -Jim Morrison
Ok that's good to hear! Didn't want to hear about a wheel falling off on that beauty. Nothing like trying to make these oldies drive and handle better.