66 Beau wrote:

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I remember having to bang on the control arm a bit, but not this much.

 

 

 

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 Should be banging on the spindle???

Ive even used a large cold chisel in place of a fork and had luck .

Thanks guys! I appreciate it.

I was beating on the spindle too and even put the castle nut on upside down to tap on the ball joint stud. I hate beating on machined surfaces!

I have a pickle fork, but it's a little larger than would be ideal (need to get a smaller one). I wasn't sure where to place it and was trying not to ruin the rubber seal. My control arm bushings are shot, but the ball joint and seal seem fine. Can I buy just the ball joint seal? Seems a waste to change a good ball joint, but while I've got it apart... I'm sure I can use one side of the pickle fork to persuade it.

I have broken these apart at least a dozen times - 30 years ago, and as I recall, two to three solid raps on the control arm and BANG. The ball joints on this car were obviously changed not that many miles ago, but it was at least 17 years ago. One of the downsides of not putting a lot of miles on our cars...

pontiax wrote:

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This proceedure requires two hammers, one heavy one against the backside of the spindle then strike the flat spot on the spindle. Thats why its flat. Two- three hits should free it up this why.   My two cents.

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That has always worked for me in wrecking yards too, usually fool proof. At home I like a splitter cause it doesn't mess up the knuckle so bad.

That must be similar the GM tool J23742-1 that my manual describes as a "proprietary ball joint separator". They also say you can push the ball joint studs out with a thick bolt and nut.

I got the stud to pop. I tried some persuasion from pickle fork to hammers at different points. No way. Note that this is after spraying it down several times over several days with penetrating oil. Finally, I cleaned away the grease and hit it with the torch for 30 seconds. Half a dozen bangs with a two pounder and voila.

Then I discover the control arm won't drop all the way. It catches on the backing plate for the brakes. All the manuals I have show the lower control arm swinging away nicely with the brake drum held on nicely with one lug nut.  I don't recall that happening. do I have to pull the hub & brakes?

Before I do, I'm going to try to pop the top ball joint.  If I can get the spindle to drop 1/2", the control arm should clear the backing plate.

-- Edited by 66 Beau on Thursday 21st of April 2016 08:32:45 AM

I just removed a pair of spindles off my 70 GP parts car a couple weeks ago and had a hard time with the passenger side bottom ball joint because I started with the top ball joint, then a friend of mine suggested I do the bottom ball joint first so the spring puts a pressure on it as well, it came off in no time with my pickle fork and 2lbs hammer.