I'm replacing the suspension bushings. I got one side of the front suspension apart and had to use some heat to pop the ball joints, but otherwise, no problems.
I replaced the ball joints and bushings, and now I'm trying to put it back together.
I got the control arms on, the spindle is connected to the upper control arm, and I got the spring into the pocket (took a little prying and persuading). I've got the spring chained for safety.
As I raise the control arm to compress the spring, I get it just about up to where I have to make a connection at the lower ball joint, and the car starts lifting off the jack stands.
I remember having this problem when installing springs in a car with no motor, but not when the car has engine, transmission etc. In the back of my mind, I seem to recall some trick or technique for doing this. Anyone?
I am pretty sure the spring is properly registered in the pocket. The bottom coil ends at the second registration hole and the top of the spring is in the spring pocket.
The manual says to use a bar up through the lower control arm, and I tried that. Still lifts the whole car.
I'm going to see if I can rent a spring compressor, though I know I've done this before on GM A-bodies without needing a compressor (but that was about 35 years ago). Nothing is open today, so I can't get anything until tomorrow.
Anyone installed front coils on an A-body recently? Is there a trick that I'm forgetting? Or should I just get the spring compressor and move on?
You need to jack the control arm from the outer most edge under the lower ball joint (makes a BIG difference where you lift from). If you jack under the pocket it will just lift the car as you describe. If this still doesn't work you need to compress the spring more.
for really long drag style coils there are compressors available which pull the spring up into the frame pocket (these work a little better). Worst coils I ever did I had to drop the lower control arm from the frame and jack/pry/wrestle the bushing side in last. BB Drag springs in a Camaro.
Gary
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I checked on-line and Canadian Tire says free rental for a spring compressor. Phone call to my local CT: "Sorry, not at this store". They list compressors, but don't stock them at my store. There is one in Kamloops (60 miles away) but they won't bring it in (unless I pay shipping). Hard to believe - my experience with other Canadian Tire stores was significantly different.
I will try moving the jack further out - I am currently set up with the jack connecting at the frame end of the pocket. I could also throw a strap around the upper & lower control arms for a little extra squeeze.
If that doesn't work, I'll track down a rental - or drive to Kamloops and buy one from a real Canadian Tire store.
I checked with the local Lordco. They have a compressor - for twice the price of the CanTire one.
Good to know I have options - and I sure appreciate the input from here. Doing this stuff by yourself is a lot different than when I did it 35 years ago when typically there was two to six of us wrenching on a car.
I got side tracked with a neighbour's 1940's Massey Harris (governor and carb problems) and his Toyota forklift (propane conversion & new distributor), my water softener and building a lumber/scrap metal storage rack for my shed, helping the other neighbour make deliveries and repair his power tailgate.
No wonder it takes me a few months to finish a 4 hour job.
1966SD - was that on a car with an engine? I installed front springs in a GTO with no engine, and we had to push down on the frame with a back hoe (front clip was off too). This is the first time I've had trouble with an engine in the car.
You need to jack the control arm from the outer most edge under the lower ball joint (makes a BIG difference where you lift from). If you jack under the pocket it will just lift the car as you describze. If this still doesn't work you need to compress the spring more.
Gary
This worked just like I remembered it should. Moved the jack so it contacted under the ball joint and 5 minutes later, lower ball joint is together and both top & bottom castle nuts are snugged up. Sure feels good to get that spring in there and buttoned up.
Now for the driver's side then I can start on the rear control arms. I want to get this done by June 9th. The Beaumont turns 50!! (I'm painting everything as I go - takes a bit longer). I'll post pictures later. The upper front bushings were completely gone. Center tube was about 1/32 inch from the outer tube - metal on metal at one spot. No wonder my camber was off.
If you ever have problems were the jack will not work use a threaded rod through the upper shock mounting hole . Large washers on the bottom. kind of replacing shock with threaded rod. You can remove and replace spring easy as turning the top nut.
You can just see the threaded rod but you should get the idea. I did this just to change upper ball joint boots.
If you ever have problems were the jack will not work use a threaded rod through the upper shock mounting hole . Large washers on the bottom. kind of replacing shock with threaded rod. You can remove and replace spring easy as turning the top nut.
You can just see the threaded rod but you should get the idea. I did this just to change upper ball joint boots.
