The car is located about an hour from me here in Florida (surprising, eh?), it is in a dealer's hands.
It would be my cruiser, on nice days. Automatic transmission which would NOT be my first choice, but is fine for a cruiser. Not my first choice of paint color, but it is the same color as my 1966 Chevelle SS396 ragtop (first car I bought new) so that is nice.
Is there anything I should pay special attention to (like impossible to find parts if they are missing, or gauges that are expensive to repair if they don't work, etc.)?
Just heading out for wings but will comment later. That car has been for sale down there for at least 5 years, maybe flipped in that time but was always around that price.
It looks very nice and the trim appears to be all there. The rear bumper on the car is a 1964 Chevelle piece without the rear backup lights or provision for them. You won't likely find them in the U.S. though. They would have a hexagonal opening with either the backup lights or in their absence, horizontal ribbed filler plates. See below:
Gauges, dash and steering column mast jacket are shared with the 1964 Tempest. I'm not sure about the rag joint but probably a Chevelle item. Seat upholstery is not technically factory correct if that is important to you. Original style was seat & door panel patterns were shared with nothing else, not Chevelles nor with the Lemans / GTO (although all of the above will fit). Steering wheel & console are correct and are Chevelle Malibu SS items (except for the unique ACADIAN horn button). The air cleaner on the car will work just fine, but Beaumonts & Canadian Chevelles 1964 through 66 were more like the American Pontiac with a removable lid rather than the "inverted pot" style in the picture you posted. See below for the style it should be, shown on a Canadian full-size Pontiac with a 283:
That red over foil 283 decal that is on the under-hood shot you posted, well that shouldn't be there (now I'm being ridiculous but I'm just saying).
Not sure what the fan is off of, but a 4-blade fan was standard and a 5-blade with a thermostatic clutch was optional. As long as you don't run a flex fan you are o.k. since they weaken and can blow apart (the reason they were recalled in the 1970s). Make sure the fan clutch is working properly because they can either lock up and spin at engine revs (not a big problem) or not spin at all (problem). Since you are in the sun belt you could always upgrade the radiator and use a reproduction fan shroud.
Convertible frames are full closed section for strength, but that can also lead to rusting potentially. Also check out the A-arms in the front end as they can crack around the ball joints (yikes!)
Like I mentioned earlier that car has been for sale on and off for a few years. Looks nice in the pictures and I actually like that color, one of the better ones in my opinion. I have a friend in Alberta who has 3 of these convertibles in this color with one being a 4 speed. Like Cam mentioned a few things that aren't quite right but that isn't a problem for you I'm sure. As far as gauges you mentioned those are real easy to find. SD trim is tougher but it looks like most of it is there. At 25g. that's a pretty good dollar for it. Similar car up here would probably be only 15g US. I can vouch that they sure are a nice driving car but I am thinking the price may have been holding it back.
why do people neglect the interiors when showing a vehicle ?? Note that the drivers seat foam has pretty much collapsed. and maybe even the seat back ??
Not sure if you looking for correct or close to.
So just a few comments.
Like jmont64 says, pretty good dollars for a car that is not entirely correct.
Most of the stuff has been mentioned (all minor) The hood is Chevelle, Beaumont had no
chrome down the center. Front turn signals should be white but orange is ok (probably easier to see)
Firewall and truck were body color (Canadian).
Biggest thing I would do is check out the frame real good.
Geez, there are about a dozen clearly visible Phillips head screws on each side holding the chrome trim above the rockers - is this how it came from the factory?
Dave
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1956 Pontiac Pathfinder 2dr sedan, 496 - dyno'd 545 hp, stick shift, 4.11 posi - Hot Rod
The VIN and trim tag show the car as 8767 which was 6 cylinder motor - explains why the 283 doesn't look like a Pontiac built car - the V8 must have come right out of a Chevy and been transplanted into this car, then someone added the Beaumont V8 emblems on the fenders. Somewhere along the way someone claimed the 283 is the original motor (and that is the claim now) but it clearly is not. Also a prior owner had contacted GM Canada Vintage Vehicle Service and they reported the car was built as a 6 cylinder motor car.
The 283 was rebuilt in 2012, new crankshaft, everything else rebuilt with new rings, bearings, etc. $2500 receipt from the engine builder.
Purrs like a kitten at idle, cruises very nicely but rough running at part throttle acceleration and no guts at full throttle - mechanic there suggested bad gas (sitting a long time) and promised to fix it if I buy the car. I suspect carburetor but maybe he is right.
Steering and brakes are fine (no power - in fact the only options the car came with were PG and electric wipers).
They were nice enough to put the car on a lift and I inspected the frame all over, poking anything that looked suspect with my small screwdriver, and the frame seems to be very good, no rust through anywhere.
I inspected the A-arms from below and could see no cracks by the balljoints.
Dale, you are sure right about the driver's seat and I will be in touch to see about new foam (the vinyl is fine).
They claim that some time in the past all new sheet metal was installed (in the USA, must have been Chevelle stuff, which would explain the hood) and I suspect the rear bumper was beyond hope so the easily-available Chevelle part was used - sad, but I could live with it as a driver, especially down here where Canadian Pontiacs are rare and car show nit-pickers would be unlikely.
The trunk interior looked perfect (although totally sprayed with spatter paint) whoever welded it in did a great job.
The 'knock offs' on the wire wheel covers had some dings and the Pontiac center emblems were extremely faded. New rubbers on the rear side windows and the top and rear window looked as new. There were some other minor flaws, but overall I could drive it and be happy.
Price will be an issue - unless there is really something I am missing - and if I am, please don't be shy, tell me - I am willing to pay $20,000 US for the car. Except for the fuel/carb/whatever acceleration problem, it felt really nice driving it. And the wife likes it, she says "It's pretty"
Dave
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1956 Pontiac Pathfinder 2dr sedan, 496 - dyno'd 545 hp, stick shift, 4.11 posi - Hot Rod
For the side trim, the front ribbed on the fender (4) screws, the door no screws and rear quarter (2) screw near the door The door and rest of rear quarter ribbed pieces are held on buy clips but these you will near find, trust me. The ribbed pieces are painted black on the flat portion between the ribs.
Brian, thank you so much for pointing out how the trim should be (and this car is not), I understand about the unobtainium clips - gives me some more leverage with the seller on price
Dave
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1956 Pontiac Pathfinder 2dr sedan, 496 - dyno'd 545 hp, stick shift, 4.11 posi - Hot Rod
Sadly the trim has had all those holes drilled in them ... never to be undrilled ...
Dave
Don't you hate it? The funny thing is even in the Fisher Body manual they say to use a sheet metal screw into the trim if the clip is broken. Cack!
Supposedly there is a place around that can restore trim after suffering such ignoble treatment. Cost and feasibility are deciding factors. I wouldn't count on finding replacement trim, you will likely have to work with what you've got.
I must say that the frame and underside look very promising on that 64. Make a list of your concerns and observations and use them to negotiate. It still is a 52 year old car so the fact that it is still around is a bonus. It also doesn't owe anyone anything, so inspect carefully and get everything in writing. Good luck! It is a nice looking and rare car.
-- Edited by CdnGMfan on Thursday 2nd of June 2016 11:18:44 PM
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67 Chevelle Malibu Sport Coupe, Oshawa-built 250 PG never disturbed.
In garage, 296 cid inline six & TH350...
Cam, Toronto.
I don't judge a man by how far he's fallen, but by how far back he bounces - Patton
I will double check the title (and the VVS document) against that VIN tag, and closely inspect the rivets. The VIN tag on my 56 is less than pristine, and the trim tag is even worse, with some corrosion around the edges. Is there something in particular I should be worried about on this 64? I sure don't want a problem.
Dave
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1956 Pontiac Pathfinder 2dr sedan, 496 - dyno'd 545 hp, stick shift, 4.11 posi - Hot Rod
One problem I see is, it looks like glue or caulking behind the tag. Sadly, I have experience with a car having that same issue, and it wasn't a positive experience...
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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 45,000 original miles
1966 Grande Parisienne, 396 1 of 23 factory air cars
One problem I see is, it looks like glue or caulking behind the tag. Sadly, I have experience with a car having that same issue, and it wasn't a positive experience...
The stamping looks "hammered/squished" also.
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Prince Edward Island
'64 Parisienne CS "barn find" - last on the road in '86 ... Owner Protection Plan booklet, original paint, original near-mint aqua interior, original aqua GM floor mats, original 283, factory posi, and original rust.
Admittedly, I'm not all that familiar with the intricacies of these cars, but did they stamp the VIN on any other parts of the body? I know on old Mopars they stamped the trunk gutter and radiator support (unitized construction on those bodies), though I don't know if they did it as far back as '64.
Just wondering if there is another way to verify that the VIN on the plate is the actual VIN for the car. The last thing you want is to part with $20K and have the car turn up stolen or something. I imagine it would be a nightmare to sort out.