Well it is time to start up my L6 rebuilt engine for the first time. My concern is the initial priming of the oil pump through the engine internals.
I have read enough just to be confused about the issue. I have read that the oil pump cannot be primed as a convention newer style engine through the distributor shaft.
My shop manual dose not explain this very well or I am not looking in the right section, I have read that the pump can be dry primed ? if it was pre packed with builders grease ?
Any ideas from someone who has actually done this would be appreciated
Dale
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New Brunswick , 1950 Pontiac Silver Streak 2 Dr Sedan, 1967 Beaumont, 1985 Sierra 1500 One Owner
Just remove the coil wire to distributor and turn the engine over and have someone watch the oil pressure gauge. When the gauge shows 15-20 pounds the system will be primed. Make sure the fuel system is really clean and only burn shell super gas. The timing marks on the cam gear and crankshaft gears are on an angle so make the sure marks line up correctly. If the engine does not start and backfires you are 180 degrees out. set the timing marks on the harmonic balancer and pointer at 0. Set the distributor at 0 on the gasolator marker and tighten snug but still be able to move the distributor. by having the gasolator screw loose enough to turn the distributor.
Your comments are really appreciated, fuel system is all rebuilt and in new condition, carb and pump. I also appreciate the warning of good gas. At this point the engine shop that rebuilt the L6 stated it was at Zero DTC No 1 , and the oil pump was greased for dry start. I will speak with my Mechanic and run the gasolator marker by him. This point is not mentioned at all in the shop manual. Thanks Dale
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New Brunswick , 1950 Pontiac Silver Streak 2 Dr Sedan, 1967 Beaumont, 1985 Sierra 1500 One Owner
I would be more concerned with the gas tank, has it been cleaned and sealed. Rust, dirt, and scale in the system is the worst for the old sixes. The gasolator selector is really used for road timing. Once the engine is up and running decent tighten the distributor hold down bolt and you set the road timing with the screw type clamp that holds the distributor. Any type of vacuum leak will make the engine run rough and sort of roll. The vacuum wiper line could cause this if cracked.
I am having a difficult time with a 1950 239 six getting the roll out of the engine. I have replaced the intake gaskets that have one rear bolt , third from the back that is extremely hard to remove and replace due to the exhaust manifold intake manifold configuration.
Sorry if I confused you, the engine initial start will be in a stand, all new gas with no old tanks or lines. I am sorry , but I have not heard the expression Roll Out before. I have installed all new gaskets throughout the entire build, but I am pretty sure we will find some leaks, hopefully not, but I am expecting it.
Best of luck and thanks
Dale
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New Brunswick , 1950 Pontiac Silver Streak 2 Dr Sedan, 1967 Beaumont, 1985 Sierra 1500 One Owner
That is great doing it on a stand before installation in the car.Engine roll is a sort of miss in the engine causing it to have a slight movement on the engine mounts. Not having available parts to interchange one by one is the problem I am having trying to find the miss. This engine was running perfect until bad gas was used which caused some misfire and a backfire. Your engine being completely rebuilt should run really smooth.
Thanks for the explanation on roll out, I hope my start up is smooth hummmmm.
SO , I plan to minimize my potential losses by not using items such as the vacuum for the wiper motor. I am not going to use the optional Oil filter either which was an add on anyway. I have converted the distributor from points and condenser to 12 Volt electronic ignition from Pertronics I have installed a GM 10Si 65 amp alternator with a 5/8"pulley with a 12 volt coils with 3 ohms capacity I know it won't be the original thing, I have come to grips with that and I know I am committing a few sins from the purist side of things, but I want to make the final product more reliable. BTW Al , did you use 20 W motor oil in engine? Thanks again Dale
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New Brunswick , 1950 Pontiac Silver Streak 2 Dr Sedan, 1967 Beaumont, 1985 Sierra 1500 One Owner
I haven't fired my rebuilt 239 yet, but I was confused about what oil to use. There's much discussion around about modern detergent oils not being good for start-up as they contain wear inhibitors which interfere with seating the rings. I believe you need to use a break-in oil like Amsoil, or buy zinc additive. I've heard that diesel engine oils may be a better alternative.
I use 30 weight oil with 1/2 a can of eos GM engine oil supplement. I had installed a petronix 6 volt system but it did not last very long. I called the company and they asked if it was possible someone left the key on since the car is key on push button start. Since it is a customers car I was honest and said it could have happened so no warranty and I just went back to a points setup and they work fine. I use 30 weight non detergent oil in my shop compressor.
I almost have the engine running about 95% but it still has a small miss and may have to try setting the valves as that has not been done yet and I have to check the tube on the carb that provides heat to the choke.
On the 12 volt conversion what will you do for the fuel and battery gauges and all the headlights and all interior bulbs?
