beautiful engine bay

FYI......................Do research on throttle body EFI. It really is an electronic carb. If you have a fairly high duration cam, and higher LSA above about 110-112 the EFI will be a problem.
The high duration tends to cause reversion, when valves or both open. CPU's are easily tricked.
The problem is air and fuel, the computer sees air and throws fuel at it. It becomes a tough tuning act to get a lean/rich operating ratio.

I had the FAST system on my car with a 575 HP BBC that never ran right and eventually, due to heat ( which you eluded to ) and many other factors ( Big Cam )
caused in my opinion bearing failures that caused 2 destroyed builds and a ton of headaches and $$$$$$$$$$$$$$ in the wind. I would have been
OK with a well tuned carb and decent gauges to monitor mixture and other functions.

Long and agonizing story short.............I now have a full warranty connect and cruise LS3 4L70E and I couldn't be happier, did I mention warranty????

Just for your info, because I care that people are armed with info needed go make educated or experienced decisions. I am experienced and now educated.

Components to consider for EFI include, EFI fuel tank and pump, one way or return delivery, brackets for cpu install and proper location inside or engine bay,
distributor compatible with cpu generated timing , drive by wire?, monitoring system, etc, etc, do your homework. It is not plug and play and it does not always hold data that it may or may not " Learn ". My system seemed to be rather forgetful. If you want to EFI....I would recommend ported, like modern systems, more $$$$ but more up to date.

Good Luck.

L

Already did. I have an LS3-TKO600-9inch '69 Camaro. Not what I want for this car. In fact I've got a full computer and sequential MPFI setup already, sitting on a shelf, but not for this car.

This will be about my fifth different EFI style I've set up (GM, FAST, MSD, Holley, BS3) so I'm not exactly a babe in the woods!

Here's the stuff I have that I opted not to reuse.  You might like it better than what I'm using!

This is the first time I've done my fuel system this way however... I always used standard braided AN hose but it's not the hot ticket for today's fuels.

I bought a second 3/8" stainless fuel supply line from RightStuff, planning to "twin" my existing supply line, so that I'd have two 3/8" stainless runs. I already had the supply. I got the second, but it turns out those lines are much easier to install without the body on the frame and all of the crossmembers installed!

I wound up having to cut it and install a union at about where the trans crossmember is so that I could feed it "back from there" and "forward from there". Now I have the lines up to where they'd normally connect to stub lines for the pump.

I have to decide whether to make hard lines like the factory or just run braided from there to the throttle body.

This is also the first time I've done the little factory pump in the tank with a dedicated sump and all of that.  Beforehand I've run a big Aeromotitve A1000 pump in the tank but they're noisy, I'm hoping this one is factory quiet.

Got everything torn down to this point last night, on from there!

-- Edited by davepl on Saturday 12th of May 2018 09:11:29 AM

Yup, I'm actually running stainless hard line for eveything but the flex portions from frame to engine and tank to frame. In those two cases I'm running -6 AN braided hose, but am using the more modern "PTFE" (Teflon (tm)) hose that is resistant to fuels.

Of course I don't have any PTFE fitting so had to buy all new stuff.  It's a little different to work with than the rubber AN stuff, but not as bad as some of the Youtube videos made it look.  If you're launching the space shuttle you could spend about an hour on each connection!

I've used braided rubber hose for years without problem but I've heard of them weeping and smelling now too with modern fuel, so it seemed the safe thing to do.

Bending stainless isn't any fun, and it's a LOT of work and sore hips from the bender, but 30' of tubing later it's turning out nice. Here are the lines to my throttle body as an example...

-- Edited by davepl on Sunday 13th of May 2018 10:11:14 AM

Yeah, you're right, they should be those little "side gear" clamps or whatever they're called. I know the ones you mean. But remember I built this particular car the way I -think- GM should have offered it. That means Bonneville grills, a hood tach, and tower clamps on the bypass

Well, I'm 99.9% of the way there. I have a small fuel leak back by the tank at a flex line to solve, but that appears to be it.

Otherwise I turned the key and it started and ran first try!

The first time I pressurized the fuel system I had two leaks, both of which turned out to be fittings that I completely missed tightening. This leak that remains is a slow drip form somewhere so I'm hoping it's an easy fix. I really don't want to contend with fuel leaks at ALL.  This is my very first attempt at making PTFE/Teflon fittings so it wouldn't surprise me if I wasn't 100% first try.

Here's a quick pic. If you look close you can see signs, but at first glance it still looks fairly stock!

-- Edited by davepl on Thursday 17th of May 2018 09:59:11 AM

-- Edited by davepl on Thursday 17th of May 2018 10:00:04 AM

Sounds good Dave. While back at the fuel tank did you check to see if the vent line was plugged?

Looks good, what system is it? What i did find out was the fittings need a 37.5° flare for the pipework, not your standard flare. Was cheaper for me to buy a good quality flaring tool from the states.

Hey, random question. I had to install an inline filter, so being smart, I figured I'd do like I did when I emptied the old tank - I blew compressed air back into the supply line. But it was solid, wouldn't take any air, so "didn't work".

I'm guessing that's because the pump is now in the tank and doesn't go backwards for some reason? Whereas before it was just the pickup tube and sock and no pump?