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Post Info TOPIC: Evapo-rust For Exhaust Manifolds


A Poncho Legend!

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Evapo-rust For Exhaust Manifolds


I want to make a pair of used manifolds look nice again, preferably without a coating on them.

Has anyone used Evapo-rust? My friend who sold me the manifolds asked me about it but I've never heard of it before.

https://www.amazon.ca/Evapo-Rust-ER004-Super-Safe-Remover/dp/B00GRSOJSS

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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 43,000 original miles


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Carl , I just discovered this one too.I had a small sample bottle given to me last week   I just finished some bolts an hour ago and they came out great . Parts have to be clean of oil / grease etc , or it does not work . I'm considering buying the pail .

 



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Best check the reviews on the product Carl

He's one I found.....don't know if this is a "look" you would want.

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?183152-Bad-Experience-with-Evapo-Rust-How-do-I-Fix-it



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Use full strength muriatic acid,  they come out mint.  Just did a few sets.  You do have to paint them afterwards tho, as they will be fresh bare cast, and will flash rust quickly.  a rinse in baking soda will help, a light wire wheeling on a drill with shine them up to like new and ready for paint will very minimal elbow grease/if any.

I have a large pail full, does 1/2 at a time.  

Muriatic is also way! cheaper than evaporust or metal rescue.   Also muriatic literally lasts forever.  those others turn black right away and are then none effective also need to be in warm temps.  muriatic will work when colder just as good



-- Edited by beaumontguru on Monday 17th of September 2018 06:55:26 PM

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Beaumontguru

MY BEAUMONT HAS 4 STUDDED TIRES AND 2 BLOCKHEATERS......AND LOTS OF OIL UNDERNEATH



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beaumontguru wrote:

Use full strength muriatic acid,  they come out mint.  Just did a few sets.  You do have to paint them afterwards tho, as they will be fresh bare cast, and will flash rust quickly.  a rinse in baking soda will help, a light wire wheeling on a drill with shine them up to like new and ready for paint will very minimal elbow grease/if any.

I have a large pail full, does 1/2 at a time.  

Muriatic is also way! cheaper than evaporust or metal rescue.   Also muriatic literally lasts forever.  those others turn black right away and are then none effective also need to be in warm temps.  muriatic will work when colder just as good



-- Edited by beaumontguru on Monday 17th of September 2018 06:55:26 PM



Thanks Dave, I was hoping you'd chime in because I knew you had experience with this.

Where do you buy muriatic acid?

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beaumontguru wrote:

Use full strength muriatic acid,  they come out mint.  Just did a few sets.  You do have to paint them afterwards tho, as they will be fresh bare cast, and will flash rust quickly.  a rinse in baking soda will help, a light wire wheeling on a drill with shine them up to like new and ready for paint will very minimal elbow grease/if any.

I have a large pail full, does 1/2 at a time.  

Muriatic is also way! cheaper than evaporust or metal rescue.   Also muriatic literally lasts forever.  those others turn black right away and are then none effective also need to be in warm temps.  muriatic will work when colder just as good



-- Edited by beaumontguru on Monday 17th of September 2018 06:55:26 PM


Wear rubber gloves, eyewear, and a ventilator mask (unless outdoors) when using.

Evapo-rust would cost $$$ to do manifolds. I've used a small bottle of it (I got for free) to do some small rusty tools and they came out good.



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'64 Parisienne CS "barn find" - last on the road in '86 ... Owner Protection Plan booklet, original paint, original near-mint aqua interior, original aqua GM floor mats, original 283, factory posi, and original rust.



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Yes, do it outside only.  all the protective gear,  you can dilute it with some water.   Avail at canadian tire in 4L, same area as mineral spirits and thinners, in the painting department.  works a bit faster in warm temps, leave pail in hte sun.   Do clean off grease first, it does not penetrate grease and oil.

 



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Beaumontguru

MY BEAUMONT HAS 4 STUDDED TIRES AND 2 BLOCKHEATERS......AND LOTS OF OIL UNDERNEATH



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Perfect, thanks guys. I may try that.

I do have the option of sandblasting these manifolds too but I like the idea of chemical stripping better.

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Sounds like you need to visit Dave's.... hee hee

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Hey man, Dave's not here......

Dave? Is that you Dave?

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Anybody ever try this stuff?

https://www.eastwood.com/calyx-manifold-coating-3-oz.html

p11171.jpg



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Yes, I've put it on after sandblasting a manifold. Looks very nice.

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For bolts and nuts and small brackets vinegar has worked reasonably well followed with a quick buff on the wire wheel. A friend has used molasses on sheet metal to remove surface rust with good results as well.

I have only ever used muriatic acid on ashtrays and in fuel tanks. Can't comment on heavier parts.

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Rust Remover Showdown. (worth a watch)

Testing different products to find the best rust remover using identical tests.



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Greaser wrote:

Rust Remover Showdown. (worth a watch)

Testing different products to find the best rust remover using identical tests.


Very informative ... thanks for that. 



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'64 Parisienne CS "barn find" - last on the road in '86 ... Owner Protection Plan booklet, original paint, original near-mint aqua interior, original aqua GM floor mats, original 283, factory posi, and original rust.



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Excellent video. Pretty much confirms what Dave says, time to buy muriatic acid.

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I've been using muriatic acid for years too on my cylinder heads like Dave said, works great and cheaper than at the machine shop. I then rinse them 197s 455 HO Heads 1971 001.JPGwith baking soda and water, so I use two tubs. Here are examples, the left set of heads were done with muriatic acid then sprayed with Krud Kutter must for rust from Home Depot. The heads on the right were cleaned and magged at the machine shop and still show rust. 



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Muriatic Acid Rust Removal - Muriatic acid is a form of hydrogen chloride gas.
https://www.hunker.com/12266335/muriatic-acid-rust-removal

Instructions for Use
If you are going to use muriatic acid to remove rust despite the heath risks, dilute it 1 to 10 with water. Work in a well-ventilated space, and wear dark glasses and gloves. Place the diluted water-acid mixture into a spray bottle, and spray it on the rust. Use a brush to scrub off the rust. Then, because of the power of the acid, the material has to be immersed in water to take off the remaining acid. If rust still remains, the process can be repeated. After the rust has been removed and the item dipped in water, the effect of the acid has to be neutralized further by using water and baking soda.

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https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/antique-machinery-and-history/acid-rust-removal-151941/

There are NO "pros" to using Muriatic Acid (HCl or Hydrochloric Acid) for derusting steel. HCl will deposit Cl ions chemically combined into the steel surface, where they will cause rust forever. No "neutralization" can remove these ions, they can only be removed by electrolysis.

You know how once your car starts to rust from road salt, it seems like no matter what you do, you cannot "kill" the rust? Same Cl ion problem only in that case it is from the NaCl road salt.

Do you want to do that to your mill?

Use Phosphoric Acid or Citric Acid to de-rust steel. Phosphoric Acid is the active ingredient in Naval Jelly. I buy Phosphoric Acid as "Behr Concrete Rust Stain Remover" at Home Despot. If I want something with added surficants, I buy Kano Labs "Ex-Rust" (www.kanolabs.com)

JRR


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I haven't used Muriatic Acid for a few decades now / now that health concerns exist & the acid does need neutralized with water & backing soda.

- to try & kill the etching process


Loctite Extend Rust Neutralizer, 1381192, unce - is what I use now on cleaned up metal, as the mild phosphoric acid turns rust pits into a hard black paintable surface.

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-unce-Extend-Neutralizer-1381192/dp/B001000VS0  

^^ I buy it at Auto Zone in Port Huron, MI cheap. Can't contaminate the tin, with a used brush exposed to rust. So pour out what will get used up.



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For exhaust manifolds that won't get painted or a treatment to stop flash rusting after the sandblasting process (that won't get painted ASAP)...

I'd use a product like OSPHO Metal Treatment or equivalent / don't know if casting or metal turns black in colour. 

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https://www.amazon.ca/Ospho-605-Metal-Treatment/dp/B000C02CDG/ref=as_li_ss_tl?tag=comparaboo038-20&ascsubtag=664546884-312-442755719.1537331427&SubscriptionId=AKIAJO7E5OLQ67NVPFZA 

This stuff is pretty incredible. Clean off the loose stuff (use a pressure washer if you can), paint this on, and wait. Some spots got cleaned so well I could see shiny bare metal! Its unreal how well this stuff works.

I shared my discovery with a friend and he pointed me to the data sheets for this and Klean Strips phosphoric prep and etch product. Theyre identicaleach are 45% orthophosphoric acid. The difference however is that Klean Strips product is $16 per GALLON, making it less than a QUARTER the price of Ospho.

Im not going to knock off any stars for being expensive because this stuff rocks! ...but Ill probably be buying the cheaper Home Depot version from now on.



-- Edited by Beaumont67SD on Tuesday 18th of September 2018 11:39:53 PM

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When using Evaporust, Metal Rescue, or Krud Kutter etc., if the part isn't completely submerged there will be a black line stain at the liquid line.
Forget about that silly Metal Rescue pic of the rusty blade above the solution and shiny silver underneath because it doesn't show a black line.
Say goodbye to black oxide and phosphate and oil finishes on metal with these products though.
If metal is left in these solutions long term, there's no harm other than blackening of the metal which is fine if you want to make a rusty fastener

look like a fresh finish black one, whereas muriatic acid will dissolve the part.

I've found Metal Rescue blackens the most with extended soaking.



-- Edited by Oshawa65SS on Wednesday 19th of September 2018 12:12:31 AM

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The more you guys post, the more I think I will just sandblast the manifolds!

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Sandblast is the safest and cleanest. The only finish I've used that lasts long term on manifolds is ceramic coating, everything else seems to rust through eventually.

I've used POR-15 with their cleaner and metal prep on frames and non manifold parts, it cleans well and the paint lasts forever. Their Manifold Gray lasted a while on manifolds but eventually rusted.

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I have been using Evaporust for years and it is amazing-they sell it at Princess Auto-and I usually buy it when it goes on sale-I put rusty bolts/brackets etc in a container and fill with this stuff-in the morning I rinse the bolts /parts off with water and they look like new-I then usually spray any natural part thats not getting painted with Boeshield T-9 (which I buy at Lee Valley)-
Keep on Cruising!!!
Dave

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The manifolds on my convertible were sandblasted, then coated with something like the Eastwood product. The ones on my Parisienne were sandblasted, then powder coated.

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Dave Rose wrote:

I have been using Evaporust for years and it is amazing-they sell it at Princess Auto-and I usually buy it when it goes on sale-I put rusty bolts/brackets etc in a container and fill with this stuff-in the morning I rinse the bolts /parts off with water and they look like new-I then usually spray any natural part thats not getting painted with Boeshield T-9 (which I buy at Lee Valley)-
Keep on Cruising!!!
Dave


 Hey Dave, you must live near United Boulevard.



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