I used POR15 manifold paint. It coats real nice and stays on great, and keeps that cast iron look. You can either bake the manifolds or just run the engine, they will smoke for a bit but soon goes away after they have been sufficiently heated up.
I have some seriously rusted in studs on my 327 rams horns.
What is a surefire technique to get them out? I have a welder and can at least weld nuts to them.
...and while on the subject, what is a good grey coating to apply to them after blasting?
Cheers, Mark
Sure fire is the oxy/acetylene torch. You must know someone who has one. They come out easy peasey, just gotta get it nice an warm. Maybe weld a nut on them first so you have something to grip it with when you heat it.
I don't think I've ever had one that didn't come out using heat.
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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 45,000 original miles
1966 Grande Parisienne, 396 1 of 23 factory air cars
I have done a few with the manifold on the engine from underneath. Patience while heating up the manifold. Get it almost white hot and a pair of vise grips on the remainder of the stud with your fingers crossed and holding your breath. Success is so sweet when it all comes out in one piece. Drilling the stud out while still on the car is painful..
I did last year. I've only used it a couple of time but it sure is wonderful to have when you need it. And if you buy the tiny tanks, no contract needed. You own the tanks and just pay for the fill.
It likely cost me about 500 bucks all said and done, torch kit, tanks, $15 cart from the swap meet.
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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 45,000 original miles
1966 Grande Parisienne, 396 1 of 23 factory air cars
heat is pretty much the cure all here if frugal is of importance and the manifolds are off the car cut stud flush with surface center punch and drill and tap thats the stay home and do it answer even with a stud remover excessive heat is the key
I know you are right when Tim, when there's no heat available it's time to drill as you described.
However, before I'd do that I'd take them to someone with a torch. Gotta be someone you know with a torch Mark?
And you say you have a welder. Before I got my torch I was changing mufflers on our G8. One of the bolts on the muffler flange broke. I think I welded 10 nuts on that thing (they kept breaking the weld) but finally I guess it got heated up enough from all the welding and the bolt turned out. However, it takes a ton of patience to do it that way. Maybe if you tried heating the manifold as much as you can with a propane torch, then quickly weld the nut on, that combo would be enough?
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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 45,000 original miles
1966 Grande Parisienne, 396 1 of 23 factory air cars
yup good ideas try try before cutting the stud flush i had to drill and cut 3 of these on my 90 chev truck at least it was on my lift in shop and there was room i heated and my stud grabber which i hate didnt do the job the best ones are the ones that grab the whole stud inside and all around like the ones greg posted sgswelding
-- Edited by timbuk on Saturday 9th of March 2019 12:07:01 PM
One technique is to wire wheel the stud first to remove excessive rust. Heat it with a torch until red. Quench it with cold water and then slowly tighten it a hair then loosen a hair. Repeat if necessary.
I've got a portable torch with a yellow tank. Step up from propane. Got it from the Depot. It'll get things red hot.
I have the same thing. Got mine from Canadian Tire though. Mine is really "fiddly" and it's easy for the flame to flare out if you don't have the knob for the yellow gas just right. When it works it works well.
As a follow up to my original post, I was able to get all 6 studs out DIY.
5 came out with just heating the casting with a small torch till near red (the best I could get), a bunch of hard raps on the stud end with a ball peen hammer, big vicegrips and some back and fourth. I tried one cold...no way.
The last one needed a nut welded on as the grips were spinning, and even with the nut it needed a lot of patient slight back and fourth till it began to turn. All but the last one were done without any penetrating oil.
So sometimes just the heat from a small torch is all you'll need if lucky. Cheers and thanks for all the comments guys!
Mark, I may have forgotten but didn't we discuss the fact that you shouldn't have manifold to head gaskets in there? I think I see one peeking out and it's yelling "na na na na naaaaaaa" at me.......
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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 45,000 original miles
1966 Grande Parisienne, 396 1 of 23 factory air cars
What gas were you using in your torch? I don't think my propane torch would get anything near red hot.
Just burns o matic... propane I guess Clint? Butane? The casting was beginning to glow ever so slightly. Problem is it only was doing so on one edge, or maybe 1/2 the stud. Enough I guess. But to be fair, this was not a winter driven high mile 327.
I shouldn't use gaskets Carl?
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65 Laurentian post, 67 Grande Parisienne 4 door HT.
