Powder Coat vs POR 15

Glenn Musgrave · Addicted!

Powder Coat vs POR 15

Prefectca · Poncho Master!

When I was working the city owned equipment that was powder coated from the manufacturer. While it was durable there were problems when it became chipped and water got underneath the powder coating. It would rust under the coating and big pieces would flake off, leaving bare rusty metal exposed. Granted this equipment would get a lot more use and abuse than a collector car, Im just relating my experience.

Paul

Mike Ward MB · Addicted!

All the sandblasted parts, underside and floors of my car (Nova) are painted by brush with POR15. I was impressed with the finished sheen of the surfaces when dry. You have to paint in a well ventilated area and have somewhere to hang the parts. Also, avoid getting the paint on your skin, its a bear to get off. Adheres real well to the metal as well. Sandblasting makes the surface very receptive to paint. I am really happy with the result.

Have never powdercoated anything and with my results of applying POR15, I probably never will.

DonSSDD · Canadian Poncho Superstar!

Glenn, I used POR brushes on easy and no visible brush marks. Use their prep/cleaners and wash them off per their instructions. You can get it in Canada/NS via boat dealers as Stright MacKay carry it. Check their web site but I think you have to go through a boat dealer. I have a buddy who orders it for me locally.

BTW, I had my exhaust manifolds ceramic coated, never found anything else that stayed on.

seventy2plus2 · Canadian Poncho Superstar!

I used Krylon black primer & semi-gloss paint in rattle cans. Looks perfect and was very cost effective.

long stroke · Canadian Poncho Superstar!

I personally have never used POR 15 but my many old car buddies that have used it say...................... it is worth the very big bucks to buy it. It seems to be an amazing products but like i said, i have never used it.

oshawacliff · Poncho Master!

When I swapped the replacement frame I had it taken to the Metal Laundry for an acid dip. They had a body shop right close by that sprayed the frame with an expoxy enamel. After putting new parts on the frame I took the car and had the frame removed. The car was put on a scaffold so that it could be rolled outside. The underbody was sandblasted and then Por 15 was applied. That was 30 years ago. The body was then mated to the donor 68 Impala Frame (that had the 4 piston brake option)

That was long before powder coating.

The frame still looks new. Biannual soaking with rust check helps, and the car is kept in underground storage at my apartment.

-- Edited by oshawacliff on Saturday 6th of June 2020 08:31:59 PM

Lemans64 · Poncho Master!

Used For 15 on my frame as well, covers very well. BUT if it will see any sun it will need to be top coated with there top coat, if not
it will go chalky. It is not UV ray protected. Put my frame out side for a few weeks and turned chalky quickly. Had to scuff and top coat.
But it is tough as nails, adheres very well to rough surface, sandblasted or slightly rusted.
If powder coating, there is not way to touch it up as far as I know, other that apply paint at damaged area.
As mentioned MAKE SURE you wear gloves, very hard to get off skin, must wear off. And if you are gonna spray it
be very careful with fumes, bad stuff, even when brushing, use good ventilation.

Did mine in 2004 no problems.

-- Edited by Lemans64 on Saturday 6th of June 2020 09:30:19 PM

norontcan · Canadian Poncho Superstar!

Most of it has already been said. POR15 works but take precautions.

koolconvertible · Poncho Master!

Used it on mine. Prep is the key. Also get every part you are going to coat and do it in one go or over a couple of days. It goes off in the can and is a waste of money.

DonSSDD · Canadian Poncho Superstar!

I forgot to say, clean the por off your can lid and cover, 100%, or when it dries completely, it will weld the lid to the can. It also dries more slowly when its low humidity and very fast in high humidity, backward to normal paint.

-- Edited by DonSSDD on Sunday 7th of June 2020 04:23:07 AM

Pontiacanada · A Poncho Legend!

You may have to take time to drill out mounting holes in a powder coated frame to get the bolts to go through.

POR-15 loves adhering to surface rust, but not bare metal or flakey rust.

Mike Ward MB · Addicted!

DonSSDD wrote:
I forgot to say, clean the por off your can lid and cover, 100%, or when it dries completely, it will weld the lid to the can. It also dries more slowly when its low humidity and very fast in high humidity, backward to normal paint.

-- Edited by DonSSDD on Sunday 7th of June 2020 04:23:07 AM

After a frustrating experience with my first can I now always pour out of the can into another container to paint and pour back the excess when done. Even being careful and cleaning the lip of the can the lid welds itself to the can. Also, the less you fiddle with cleaning the less you have to try and get the stuff off of your skin!

Another tip, I use the cheapest brushes I can find - package of 15 for less than a buck apiece from Home Depot - and throw them out after use.

68sd396rag · Poncho Master!

When closing the lids back up I used thin plastic in between the lids and the cans-worked great-no more stuck on lids.

cranks38 · Addicted!

I'll pile on, and cast another vote for POR 15.

Note: I've spent most of my working life welding and fabricating... when a repair is needed, powdercoating is my mortal enemy!

Glenn Musgrave · Addicted!

Sounds like the jury is in and the judge will honour the verdict. I'd like to thank each and everyone of you for feedback!!!!! This is another one of the gazillion examples of why guys should be on this site.

Glenn Musgrave · Addicted!

Thought I would add to the story to help other out. Stright MacKay no longer carry it in NS. Anyone can contact the Canadian distributor at por15canada.ca/store/ or call 1-800-689-7504 and talk to Pat. He's simply amazing!!! I could talk to him all day. He has been the Canadian distributor for more than 30 years, does a lot of work on vehicles and heavy equipment and naturally uses a lot of his product. Some of the tips he gave me include don't over stir the product. That's a big problem with a lot of guys, the difficulty is the extra stirring introduces more humid air into the product and that promotes it hardening. One of my favourite tips is don't ever take the lid off the can!!! Use a philips screw driver and punch 2 holes in the lid and pour the product out. When you are finished simply plug the holds with a screw. He says he has kept product for 5 years like that.

The warehouse is located just outside Montreal and I am just outside Halifax. I placed my order online Monday afternoon and it arrived Wednesday afternoon, still in shock! If I can get the stuff back from being blasted I'll be off to the races.

cdnpont · Canadian Poncho Superstar!

Be sure to prep that clean frame exactly as POR instructs to avoid a nightmare later.

seventy2plus2 · Canadian Poncho Superstar!

My Krylon rattle can paint job is now 6 years old and still looks great. Still not sure why you'd go through the expense of POR-15.

Glenn Musgrave · Addicted!

Absolutely! Since I am getting it blasted he said all I need to do is use sandpaper to knock off the peaks caused by blasting and apply the rust preventive coating. I am going to use the Top Coat Chassis Black semi-gloss under the hood.

DonSSDD · Canadian Poncho Superstar!

I like the screwdriver trick.

norontcan · Canadian Poncho Superstar!

Mike Ward MB wrote:
DonSSDD wrote:
I forgot to say, clean the por off your can lid and cover, 100%, or when it dries completely, it will weld the lid to the can. It also dries more slowly when its low humidity and very fast in high humidity, backward to normal paint.

-- Edited by DonSSDD on Sunday 7th of June 2020 04:23:07 AM
After a frustrating experience with my first can I now always pour out of the can into another container to paint and pour back the excess when done. Even being careful and cleaning the lip of the can the lid welds itself to the can. Also, the less you fiddle with cleaning the less you have to try and get the stuff off of your skin!
Another tip, I use the cheapest brushes I can find - package of 15 for less than a buck apiece from Home Depot - and throw them out after use.

Here's evidence that the " punch the top of the can " trick has been successfully used many, many times.

POR15 can.jpg

cdnpont · Canadian Poncho Superstar!

Yea, you can say that proves it!

Glenn Musgrave · Addicted!

I called Pat, the POR-15 rep again and got another tip that is worthy of sharing. He said the EDP coating should be removed from the new floor pans as it is only a primer for shipping and to stop rust forming until the pans are installed. He recommended I check with the pan manufacturer to confirm it is was a temporary coating or not. On Sunday I emailed Classic Industries but not being blessed with endless patience, I called Classic Industries Monday. The guy I spoke with quickly agreed the EDP coating needs to be removed. They suggested a lacquer thinner or similar product. Wednesday I got an email response from Classic and the author says to remove the EDP from both sides and apply POR-15 to both sides to prevent rusting. Moisture can wick through the carpet and padding and rot your floor from the inside. He just did it to his new floor pan.

The local NAPA store recommends paint stripper. I called Pat again at POR-15. He said it's best to sandblast it off as that will provide a textured surface the POR-15 can bond with. I tried the pressure tank blaster I got from Princess Auto but I'd be 110 years old and go through 20+ bags of 30-60 glass beads. Today I went to the guy who is doing my frame and he will blast both sides of all 3 main pans for $250, I nearly broke his arm taking the deal:)

So the process is like this:

- blast off the EDP coating
- scuff off the little peaks from the blasting process. I have scotch pad and emery cloth to see which one will work the best. All suggestions welcome
- apply 2 coats of POR-15 Rust Preventive Coating. Since I am now doing both sides of the floor pans stretching from the firewall to rear bumper, frame and all under carriage I ordered the 2nd gallon of this product
- apply 2 coats of finish paint to the underside of all floor pans to match the top of the car.

Considering all this was recent information I am so happy we didn't get the main floor plan welded in last week. I would have really sucked removing the EDP while laying under the body on a creeper!!!!