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Post Info TOPIC: rust encapsulator


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rust encapsulator


anyone have any preferences on this stuff? I see some made in the US , is there a good one in Canada?



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dboode


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Canadian Tire sells or did sell a rust converter product. It is probably what you are looking for.

Paul

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POR15.

If it's rusty it'll stick and seal forever.

 

Question, not to hijack; How do you preserve the remaining POR in the can?



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65 Laurentian post, 67 Grande Parisienne 4 door HT. 
 


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cdnpont wrote:

POR15.

If it's rusty it'll stick and seal forever.

 

Question, not to hijack; How do you preserve the remaining POR in the can?


 I read online that the trick is to punch a small hole in the lid (dont remove the lid) pour out just what you need and then seal the hole with a self tapping screw. I havent used por15, so I havent tried this, but the idea apparently is not to let too much air into the can. 

Paul



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Poncho Master!

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Por15 will do the trick. Buy the small size can and do the nail in the lid.

 WEAR GLOVES    ONCE YOU GET IT ON YOUR SKIN IT WILL TAKE 6 WEEKS TO WEAR OFF!!!

Been there done that.  Superb product... did my Chev 30 years ago.

 



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Prefectca wrote:
cdnpont wrote:

POR15.

If it's rusty it'll stick and seal forever.

 

Question, not to hijack; How do you preserve the remaining POR in the can?


 I read online that the trick is to punch a small hole in the lid (dont remove the lid) pour out just what you need and then seal the hole with a self tapping screw. I havent used por15, so I havent tried this, but the idea apparently is not to let too much air into the can. 

Paul


 A while back I posted a picture of my liter can of POR-15 with about 15 or 20 screws in the top. It's still got lots left.



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A Poncho Legend!

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Prefectca wrote:
cdnpont wrote:

POR15.

If it's rusty it'll stick and seal forever.

 

Question, not to hijack; How do you preserve the remaining POR in the can?


 I read online that the trick is to punch a small hole in the lid (don't remove the lid) pour out just what you need and then seal the hole with a self tapping screw. I haven't used por15, so I haven't tried this, but the idea apparently is not to let too much air into the can. 

Paul


 I've tried it and it works great.



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Prince Edward Island

'64 Parisienne CS "barn find" - last on the road in '86 ... Owner Protection Plan booklet, original paint, original near-mint aqua interior, original aqua GM floor mats, original 283, factory posi, and original rust.



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I wish Id known that tip 30 years and numerous cans of POR15 ago. Thanks!

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I was talking to a guy last night and he was using( I think,lol) DOM16. He got it at Car Quest and it seemed to be similar to POR15.

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I was trying to remember the name - Ive used DOM16 too. As the name suggests, it seems to be a direct knock off of POR15. Worked the same, seems to be standing up well (approx. 3 years on the under-carriage of my truck) - oh, and it solidified in the can after one use, the same as POR15. I got it at Lordco. I dont think it was much cheaper, but POR15 can be a pain to find.

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Canadian Poncho Superstar!

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The POR-15 name has been around for quite some time but over the years the formula has changed to satisfy environmental rules. It might also still not get a passing grade in some provinces/states.
It continues to do a great job at rust prevention.

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I also am interested in knowing more about these products, yes the comments are valuable tips on how to preserve remaining portions and the cost factors. Without reading any directions or material on the web, how would you apply either product in area like door / window pillars or up the rear wing sales of the rear 1/4's? Would you apply on the interior of the roof ? 
Is the MSDS for either product available on line, they didn't jump out at me?



-- Edited by silver steak on Tuesday 16th of March 2021 08:21:23 AM

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The #1 fact to be aware of; POR15 will not stick to clean metal without the proper surface or prep.

There has to be some oxide present or it won't bite. I used it on the inside roof panel on my 65, only because there was some light surface rust present.



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65 Laurentian post, 67 Grande Parisienne 4 door HT. 
 


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OK, so a little bit of oxidation is good for the adhesion, but can you spray the Product or is it brushed on? 



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POR-15 is very messy to deal with. If not removed from skin immediately it will take a long time (weeks) to wear off.
It can be sprayed but even with HVLP you're going to get o'spray somewhere. The good news is that it is quite brushable and flows out very well. To the point that even if you're using a cheap disposable brush the brush marks won't be visible.

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Never get it in your hair.......................worse than Gorilla glue!

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Canadian Poncho wrote:

Never get it in your hair.......................worse than Gorilla glue!


 Yes, not the hair colouring us old guys need.



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thanks Paul, ill check it out



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dboode


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cdnpont wrote:

The #1 fact to be aware of; POR15 will not stick to clean metal without the proper surface or prep.

There has to be some oxide present or it won't bite. I used it on the inside roof panel on my 65, only because there was some light surface rust present.


 I am using POR-15 extensively in my rebuild, even on new metal.  I talked to Paul, the Canadian rep, he is a great resource.  He is first to say don't remove the lid off the POR-15 final coat product and don't over shake the can.  He told me to take a philips screwdriver, punch 2 holes in the lid, one to pour product and one for air.  When you pour out what you need use a couple of screws to plug the holes.  The screws will seal and you won't be able to get them out once dried; punch new holes next time. 

Under Paul's direction, I glass bead my new metal then use a scuff pad to remove the high spots created by the blasting process and wipe down with a clean cloth then the POR-15 works great.  I you are using it on metal that has not been blasted and especially if it has some rust you should be using their 3 step process with their other products to treat the metal and neutralize the rust.  It is these products that have changed over the years to be more environmentally friendly.



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Glenn Musgrave wrote:

 He is first to say don't remove the lid off the POR-15 final coat product and don't over shake the can.  He told me to take a philips screwdriver, punch 2 holes in the lid, one to pour product and one for air.  When you pour out what you need use a couple of screws to plug the holes.  The screws will seal and you won't be able to get them out once dried; punch new holes next time.

Exactly what I did, but I used a nail to punch the holes, followed by metal roofing screws (they have a rubber gasket/metal washer on them). Yes, do not shake too much, and let the can settle a bit before punching/pouring.

Contrary to belief, I also removed dried POR-15 off my skin in no time ... it just takes a bit of thinners and scrubbing.



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Prince Edward Island

'64 Parisienne CS "barn find" - last on the road in '86 ... Owner Protection Plan booklet, original paint, original near-mint aqua interior, original aqua GM floor mats, original 283, factory posi, and original rust.



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The screw trick sounds ok. But you still have oxygen present. How about adding some inert gas through the second hole before inserting the final screw?

Would a better tire place in town possibly fill a small air pig with nitrogen for you?



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Pontiacanada wrote:
Glenn Musgrave wrote:

 He is first to say don't remove the lid off the POR-15 final coat product and don't over shake the can.  He told me to take a philips screwdriver, punch 2 holes in the lid, one to pour product and one for air.  When you pour out what you need use a couple of screws to plug the holes.  The screws will seal and you won't be able to get them out once dried; punch new holes next time.

Exactly what I did, but I used a nail to punch the holes, followed by metal roofing screws (they have a rubber gasket/metal washer on them). Yes, do not shake too much, and let the can settle a bit before punching/pouring.

Contrary to belief, I also removed dried POR-15 off my skin in no time ... it just takes a bit of thinners and scrubbing.


 I just used my nails and scrapped it off at the end of the day.  I found there was enough POR-15 on the lid that the screw mating surface to the lid was covered with POR-15 and if it wasn't I dabbed it with the brush until it was, no issue sealing.  Paul, the rep, said he had a can for 5 yrs and is still using it because he seals it this way.  Rubber gasket screws are expensive unless you have a bunch left over from something else but they certainly would work fine.



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cdnpont wrote:

The screw trick sounds ok. But you still have oxygen present. How about adding some inert gas through the second hole before inserting the final screw?

Would a better tire place in town possibly fill a small air pig with nitrogen for you?


 I definitely would not introduce anything into the can.  You don't know what chemical reaction may take place.  The product rep recommends and uses the screw only method, it works fine for him on a can he uses periodically over the last 5 yrs



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i did use for 15 on a 56 fairlane i had. worked real well, the only drawback i could find was that they recommend top coating it if its exposed to sunlight . eastwood has a one shot encapsulator that sounds good , i may give that a shot. i can get por 15 right here though so its handy. i also used a trick i heard of using stretch and seal between the lid and it seemed to work well. i like the screw idea better though. thanks for all the input, this site is such a great resource

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dboode


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I've posted this pic before but here's a well aged ( thinking 10+ years ) old can that I continue to use as it's still about 1/2 full.

POR15 can.jpg



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