I figured out my problem with the carb is the fast idle cam. I was wondering if the trans is not topped up9i had to fix the drain plug) would this effect the carb at all??
would be nice but i do have a 4-barrel intake and carb but i want to keep the original look of the engine for right now. Even with the four its still a big car and its all about slow-cruisin for me!! nice setup though, but is that intake pink or is it just my monitor??
my bad camera. i know you said you had already had a 4bbl intake and carb but what i figured would peak your interest is the oil filler hole on the front of this intake for that period correct thing. the intake part number is 3866922 and specs out (62-65/283,327/4bbl/iron/QJET/A B X/220hp/250hp,VETTE).
yeah, i did see that. Would be cool but the other problem i'll have is re-doing all the linkages and i know i'll mess that up!the one thing i dont like about the original manifold is the tube at the back behind the distibuter that blows all the fumes out! And i had to cut it shorter so it would fit after the headers were in.
i have a 283 in my 55 gmc and i went with an early 4bbl edelbrock intake on it. for the vent off the back i ran a flexible tube (garden hose) down the back of the motor and vented just below the tranny but behind the cross member, sort of like a downdraft tube. i haven't had any fumes or oil issues in 2 years of steady driving.
good idea. i will have to do that. I remember when i first put the headers on and started it up, i forgot to put the tube on and there was little bits of oil spray everywhere on the freshly painted valve covers!! oh well
the # on the tag is A B9 7013082 is this the # or is there one stamped somewhere i dident see? Was playing with it today and the throttle plate keeps closing when i press on the gas pedal and when i turn off the car and press the gas pedal the plate closes again even when the engine is warmed up. I see that its sticking on the little stepped or notched piece and ive tried to bend the bar a bit but its still doing it. I wish i knew the technical terms cause i dont really know how to describe it.
-- Edited by 59poncho at 15:43, 2008-10-14
the 4th digit in the carb number is the year produced, your's is a '3', you might get the jobber to check '63 listings for the carb kit.
i went to jims speed shop here in london and he has one comeing in for friday. i also went and got new brushes for my generator and was wondering if they are supposed to spark a bit or is that just because i cleaned the unit?
getting frustrated!! i rebuilt the carb, put it on and fired up no problem. The choke is still not right i think and i just cant seem to figure it out. Any suggestions would be appreciated.thks guys
I don't know if you did it cold, but that is the first thing I would do. Start with it ice cold in the morning, and set it so it just snaps shut when you tap the throttle enough to let it do so.
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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 45,000 original miles
1966 Grande Parisienne, 396 1 of 23 factory air cars
Ponch,try setting as Carl suggested. To me,Chokes = a pain in the a s s.My answer was to back it off/tie it to hold in the open position.when cold,crank it over while pumping the throttle.should idle on its own after minute or so.works for me. Not driving it in the winter are you?
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"When the power of love overcomes the love of power,the world will know peace"
Disconnect the auto choke and add a manual choke cable. You can still buy these at Canadian Tire or NAPA
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1960 Pontiac Strato Chief Safari 1960 Laurentian Safari 1960 Laurentian 4door(scrapped) 2001 Grand Am Traded on a '96 Suburban 2WD 2002 Hyundai Accent(SOLD) 1968 Grand Parisienne Scrapped and SOLD
okay guys, i'll try that this morning. And nooooo im not driving it in the winter...imagine sliding and hitting a newer car with this massive hunk of steel!! There would be nothing left of it, especially a TOYOTA!!! lol
I would think, thats their problem for driving such a small car...LOL
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1960 Pontiac Strato Chief Safari 1960 Laurentian Safari 1960 Laurentian 4door(scrapped) 2001 Grand Am Traded on a '96 Suburban 2WD 2002 Hyundai Accent(SOLD) 1968 Grand Parisienne Scrapped and SOLD
check it cold. the choke coil should close the flap without too much pressure. when you start the engine, the 'vacuum pull off' should open the choke flap approx 3/16-1/4" so the engine can breathe. if you have a shop manual, throughly read the carb section, get a good understanding of the choke/carb operation, it is a simple system really.
i find the problem is the fast idle cam(the little notched lever) is not working right. It is connected to the coil isnt it? I also wonder if the actual coil inside the housing is backwards? When i adjust the coil by turning should it put pressure on the throttle plate? Ive read my manual(of which i cant thank carl enough for) and i just cant get it right still. I put the coil so that it keeps the throttle plate open but when i rev the engine it misses a bit like theres too much of a air/gas thing goin on and the idle cam does not move and just sits in the low idle position unless i move it manualy. Ive got food,coffee,money if anyone wants to stop by!!??? lol
With the engine cold you are turning the coil to close the choke butterfly, right?
Make sure you have the throttle linkage "tapped" so that the choke flap can close. I don't think it will without that little "blip" on the throttle, will it? It's been a while since I did a 2bbl adjusment! That blip on the throttle should flip the fast idle cam up at the same time that the butterfly snaps shut.
Next question, do you not have the hot air tube from the exhaust manifold up to the coil, or is it just not in the pic? I am thinking without that you will have trouble getting it right, because if you have it good when it's cold, it will not warm up quick enough and end up being too rich for a while. Conversely, if you have it so that it's not too rich as it warms up, it will likely be too lean when you first start it.
Carl, that pic you posted looks to be from a later model and those are different.
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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 45,000 original miles
1966 Grande Parisienne, 396 1 of 23 factory air cars
instead of the heat from the manifold it comes from one of the bolts with a hole through it that holds the carb down on the manifold.It goes from there and tees off to the vacum in the distributer and then to a tube at the rear of the engine. Also, when i think about it i have it so the throttle is open when i start it but i find the throttle linkage just is not operating in conjunction with the choke,it is almost like its not even hooked up but i put it back just like it was before i took the carb off.
I saved the installations instructions for a 2bbl rebuilt Rochester I had about 30 years ago. Here's what it says:
AUTOMATIC CHOKES Adjust at room temperature 65 to 70 degrees F only. Loosen choke cover retainer screws, turn cover to partially open choke valve. Turn cover opposite direction until choke valve just closes to air horn. Now tighten retainer cover screws. To enable you to do this adjustment, you must open throttle half way to release choke mechanism.
Warning Remove choke cover of old carburetor and inspect choke mechansim for carbon or corrosion. If such is eveident it indicates that heat stove in manifold is burned out and must be repaired, or the choke mechanism of your new carburetor will be ruined.
