Good News and ...

davelacourse · Poncho Master!

Good News and ...

4SPEED427 · A Poncho Legend!

Personally, I would take path 2.

The reason is, the 496 is a HUGE project to take on and you could easily get discouraged at how long it takes and how much it costs. I would get the 6 running better, drive it a bit, get the bugs out of it.

Typically, what happens is this---

I was going to put the 496 in but one thing led to another and pretty soon the body was off the frame......... I'm not kidding, I can speak from experience as well as from hearing many many other people say the same thing.

Beaumont4008 · Uber Guru

You got that right Carl, I wish i would have driven my car with the original six. I have never driven the car since the day I bought it back in the 80's. Body of the frame since early 90's.

Did you do a wet a dry test to see if rings or valves ? If you just did a dry test now put some oil in each cylinder and test again. If you get a big increase in compression its your rings if very little valves.

67Poncho · Uber Guru

I would pull the valve cover first to inspect the valve train while cranking with the ignition system disabled. I have had some that the valve was a little stuck and it bent the push rod....... Freed the valve, got another push rod and away we go. Also may have a bad cam or collapsed lifter.

Make sure the travel is the same across the board..... If that is good, then go ahead with the wet test as Beaumont4008 suggested.............. Hope you find it right away!!!!

2drpost · Uber Guru

i would get her inspected and properly registered first dave.
do as ian suggested, a dry and wet compression test. repairing a burnt valve isn't too difficult, time and wallet wise. wink

73SC · A Poncho Legend!

A car you can drive is a lot more fun than one you can't. I choose Path #1.

eeluddy · Uber Guru

Get it out & drive it Dave. Nothing more depressing to me than having a non- runner sittin around. I know, I have at least one all the time!

unclebernie · Guru

I would agree with path #1. Put a few miles on it, then after you have the initial enjoyment you can at least say you drove it before you tore it apart. Besides does the Government really need that extra $150???? Get it all legal, then make your final decision. Just my 2 cents.......John

gparis7 · Canadian Poncho Superstar!

I'd do path 2, that way you can continue to drive it until you are ready for the big swap. I had a stuck valve in my 261 62 Parisienne, and decided to replace it with a 64 283 I pulled from a running, driving 64 Parisienne rust bucket. Even with this easy swap, one thing led to another, and the car has been off the road for over three years. But now it's almost road ready - new paint and all.

lennox · Veteran Member

Drive it and have fun. Set a time in the future to go for the engine swap but at least drive it and have some fum!!!

davelacourse · Poncho Master!

67Poncho wrote:

I would pull the valve cover first to inspect the valve train while cranking with the ignition system disabled. I have had some that the valve was a little stuck and it bent the push rod....... Freed the valve, got another push rod and away we go. Also may have a bad cam or collapsed lifter.

Beaumont4008 wrote:

Did you do a wet a dry test to see if rings or valves ? If you just did a dry test now put some oil in each cylinder and test again. If you get a big increase in compression its your rings if very little valves.

Thanks guys, that is what I will do next. Gotta finish the diagnosis before deciding on the fix, eh?

And I will limp to the licensing place and back real soon, save another bite of the taxman I hope.

Thanks to all for your great ideas and insights.

More to come ...

Dave

59stratochiefwagon · Veteran Member

I would get the car in your name and on the road as you never know what laws/ tax grabs they can add on. Here in ONT they can ask for an appraisal and tax you on that amount, so if you wait until it is updated and a higher appraised value you pay more tax, Henry.

67HEAVEN · Poncho Master!

59stratochiefwagon wrote:

I would get the car in your name and on the road as you never know what laws/ tax grabs they can add on. Here in ONT they can ask for an appraisal and tax you on that amount, so if you wait until it is updated and a higher appraised value you pay more tax, Henry.

Good advice.

davelacourse · Poncho Master!

Thanks for all the info, I checked w/ valve cover off and all the valve train is good, no bad rockers or push rods. I also did wet (squirted lots of oil in the cylinder) compression test on #6 and it was only a few pounds better. So that narrows it down to bad valve (probably burnt exhaust).

First, I am going to finish up the steering column, make sure the brakes work, and run on 5 cylinders to get it licensed. Not pretty, but it will get that done, hopefully one small step ahead of the tax man.

Then I am going to fix the bad valve, so the car can be driven anywhere, and enjoy it a bit, while building the 496. Depending on weather, I will also replace the tranny and shifter, and rebuild the rear end with new 4.11 Posi (if weather is nice, I'll drive the car - if too hot outside, then do the drive train work).

We still have a month and a half of hot hot summer here (until end of September) so that is when cruising is bad and wrenching is good (thanks to A/C in garage). Most likely the 496 install will be next summer. Opposite of how 'tis done in Canada, eh?

I bought a cheap ($50 US) video camera and I will see if I can chirp those fat rear tires with that old straight six, if so, I'll have a buddy record it and post it here

Thanks again,
Dave

Elroy · Poncho Master!

eh waddya mean in Canada you say ?? Out west here we could just dream about needing AC in our garage, that would mean we have sun and hot weather..... NOT !!! Sounds like you have a great plan to get that baby running, great ideas there Dave ! Looking forward to that video!

Ghost Post · Poncho Master!

So w/ the valve cover off inspection, all appears as both valves of the bad cyl. are getting full lift as if the cam lobes are Ok?.

Even though you'll have to pull the head to fix either, if your compression tester is the thread in type w/ removable ends, an old trick I used to do was thread the end into the plug hole and apply a regulated low flow of compressed air to the bad cyl. listening at the tailpipe and carb for the hiss to indicate which valve was the bad one..

davelacourse · Poncho Master!

Ghost Post wrote:

So w/ the valve cover off inspection, all appears as both valves of the bad cyl. are getting full lift as if the cam lobes are Ok?.

Even though you'll have to pull the head to fix either, if your compression tester is the thread in type w/ removable ends, an old trick I used to do was thread the end into the plug hole and apply a regulated low flow of compressed air to the bad cyl. listening at the tailpipe and carb for the hiss to indicate which valve was the bad one..

Yep, appears as both valves of the bad cyl. are getting full lift as if the cam lobes are OK and no bad pushrod.

My compression tester is the thread in type but no quick disconnect on either end, it would be a good idea to add one since it is a PITA to thread it into number 5 (battery tray and distributor conspire to make access tough) and being able to easily disconnect the gauge from the rest of the unit would make it easier. Then I could use your cool trick w/ the air compressor to figure out in advance which valve is the bad one.

But as you said, I gotta pull the head anyway, so I'll let it be a surprise

... if I were a betting man I'd guess it's exhaust, burnt.

Thanks,
Dave

59stratochiefwagon · Veteran Member

I made different leakdown testers using old sparkplugs and tapping a 1/4" pipe thread in it and then a short hose and quick coupler, Henry.