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Canadian Poncho Homepage -> Canadian Poncho -> General Engine Performance Forum -> Rad and fan questions...?
Post Info TOPIC: Rad and fan questions...?
03cts sport


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I've got a 66 Beau with the factory 327.  The rad is very tired and due to be dealt with.  It is only a two core with a spacer between the grille and the rad, that I believe was only used on the small blocks(?)  The current fan is an aftermarket 20 year old, aluminum.  Also worth noting that the engine (at least in recent years) has seemingly run on the hot side.
As the car is pretty much original, I think it makes sense to go with a non-aluminum rad.  I've looked at one re-pro rad that is supposed to be an exact match, but it is wider and therefore would require the removal of the spacer (as the front of the sapcer is wider than the rear of it where the rad matches up.  (It is also a thicker 3 core design, therefore I think it is a big block repro?) 
As a result my questions are...

Should I go with a re-core (thus keeping the spacer)?
If so, should I go with a 3 core vs the original 2 core?

Should I go with the repro and remove the spacer?

I have a 7 blade chevy van from a '70's v8 which I have been told moves more air. should I use it?  (Keeping in mind that I don't have the original.)
How much space should there be between the fan and the rad?

I don't have a shroud.  (Nor do I believe the car originally came with one?)

All thoughts are appreciated.
thx in advance...



-- Edited by 03cts sport on Monday 14th of September 2009 12:17:08 PM

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03cts sport


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Any thoughts?...

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03cts sport


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Decided to get the current rad re-cored (triple core instead of a dual core) so as to keep the original spacer. 
Therefore the remaining questions are...how far should the fan be from the rad?...I do not currently have a shroud, do I need one?
thx

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4SPEED427


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Boy, I can't believe nobody chimed in with all the Beaumont guys there are on here.

Anyway, I'll take a shot at it. I think the 3 core idea you are doing is the right thing. As far as space from the fan, I would imagine there was likely a short spacer on the fan from the factory, maybe an inch or inch and a half?

Have you tried online to find pictures of original small block Chevelles? That would certainly be the same.

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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 45,000 original miles 

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Beaumont4008


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Dam, if you would have asked before I went to the car show yesterday I could have tacken a few pics of engine bays for you.  Where is Dave (Beaumontguru) ,he is good at this stuff.

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03cts sport


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Thx guys! As the 7 blade seems to stick forward a little more, I think I will have to locate a shorter spacer. The only question is, what distance am I hoping to achieve? (I will try to locate an owner of a 66 small block on the Chevelle site. Thanks for the steer!)

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4SPEED427


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Just a guess but I'd say with no shroud, likely and inch or a bit more maybe.

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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 45,000 original miles 

1966 Grande Parisienne, 396 1 of 23 factory air cars (now converted to a "factory" 4 speed)
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03cts sport


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Thx, for the response.  Unless I go with shorter bolts (which is certainly an option), if I go with the existing spacer and the 7 blade fan, if I ever need to remove the fan in the future, it would likely require pulling the rad.  Am I asking for problems doing this?   (I'm new to this.)
thx 

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eeluddy


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You could eliminate a lot of heating problems by going to electric fan/shroud setup off a later model car, say like a mid 80's Camaro/Firebird. There are lots of them available in the wreckers.
This will give you a longer life on the water pump as well as free up a few horsepower. Why not have the original rad boiled out and recored? Flush the block out also should take care of any cooling problems.

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03cts sport


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eeluddy wrote:

You could eliminate a lot of heating problems by going to electric fan/shroud setup off a later model car, say like a mid 80's Camaro/Firebird. There are lots of them available in the wreckers.
This will give you a longer life on the water pump as well as free up a few horsepower. Why not have the original rad boiled out and recored? Flush the block out also should take care of any cooling problems.


Thx for the feedback.  I considered the electric fan but thought I'd try to stay somewhat "stock".  (Although I never considered the additional HP angle.blankstare)

Re the waterpump, although I have not driven the car too much in the last 10 years, in the 28 years that I have owned it I don't recall ever having to replace the pump.  As a result, I'm thinking that I will change it now to avoid the inevitable. 

Re the flush, is there a documented version of the best way to do this? 

thx again.

 



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da66


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Sorry Geoff I just came across this. Do you still need the info. I got a brand new replacment rad for my car. I am not running a shroud. There is a small spacer that goes between the fan and pump I will get you some more pics if required

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