Extended Desc: LH FLOOR PAN FT SEC CHEVELLE/BEAUMONT/MALIBU/EL CAMINO/GTO/LEMANS/TEMPEST/CUTLASS 64-72; SKYLARK 67-72; MONTE CARLO 70-72; SPRINT 68-72 - MADE IN USA
Extended Desc: RH FLOOR PAN FT SEC CHEVELLE/BEAUMONT/MALIBU/EL CAMINO/GTO/LEMANS/TEMPEST/CUTLASS 64-72; SKYLARK 67-72; MONTE CARLO 70-72; SPRINT 68-72 - MADE IN USA
Extended Desc: LH FLOOR PAN FULL 28 IN.Wx62 IN.L CHEVELLE/BEAUMONT/MALIBU/GTO/LEMANS/TEMPEST/EL CAMINO (MOD RR SEC FOR EL CAMINO)/CUTLASS 64-67; SKYLARK 67 - MADE IN
Extended Desc: RH FLOOR PAN FULL 28 IN.Wx62 IN.L CHEVELLE/BEAUMONT/MALIBU/GTO/LEMANS/TEMPEST/EL CAMINO (MOD RR SEC FOR EL CAMINO)/CUTLASS 64-67; SKYLARK 67 - MADE IN
Extended Desc: LH FLOOR PAN FT SEC CHEVELLE/BEAUMONT/MALIBU/EL CAMINO/GTO/LEMANS/TEMPEST/CUTLASS 64-72; SKYLARK 67-72; MONTE CARLO 70-72; SPRINT 68-72 - MADE IN TAI
Extended Desc: RH FLOOR PAN FT SEC CHEVELLE/BEAUMONT/MALIBU/EL CAMINO/GTO/LEMANS/TEMPEST/CUTLASS 64-72; SKYLARK 67-72; MONTE CARLO 70-72; SPRINT 68-72 - MADE IN TAI
thank you 427 carl , i did check these guys out online and the catalogue link i had did not specify they had a front and rear floor pan ( combination F R ) available. I want to install this type in order to cover the under seat portion of the floor , wich has a little rust.
i will call them to find out
I also need the deck that goes behind the rear seat of the car
and the wheather strip to go arround the doors ( 2 d post model )
also a hood without traps ( not a fiberglass hood )
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1967 BEAUMONT 2 DOOR POST ALL NEW 283
1965 CHEV BEL AIR 230 3 SPEED
I LIKE THEM PLAIN , I LOVE BENCH SEATS , POVERTY CAPS,NO TRIM.
I HAVE THIS THING FOR A 4 DOOR 65 BISCAYNE 6 CYL STD DONT KNOW WHY ?
They(CROSS CANADA) will have the hood and rear deck area...
great i ordered all my parts two full floor pans L and R also two seat pans and the brace under ( pretty steap 180.00) also one toe board ( Firewall ext. drivers side )
also one rear bumper ( mine was bent on the ends ) and the trunk wheaterstrip
now i must find a hood ( standard hood with no traps ) and the door wheathersrip ( sedan model )
possibly a trunk floor ( side parts )
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1967 BEAUMONT 2 DOOR POST ALL NEW 283
1965 CHEV BEL AIR 230 3 SPEED
I LIKE THEM PLAIN , I LOVE BENCH SEATS , POVERTY CAPS,NO TRIM.
I HAVE THIS THING FOR A 4 DOOR 65 BISCAYNE 6 CYL STD DONT KNOW WHY ?
When I did my Acadian floors I considered two things---
1) I wanted it to look as original as possible when done
2) I considered which ways were more difficult and which were easier
1) Making it look original meant not using the whole pan. This was because one of the places just short of where the floor curves up for the firewall (toeboard) there is a factory seam. The replacement pan just goes right past that seam and while it has a crease in it to imitate the seam, you can tell at a glance that it's a fake joint there, not an actual seam.
2) I looked at maybe not doing the back part of my pans because they were basically perfect. Once you start cutting up the pan and making a seam where there isn't a factory one, you have a bunch of extra work.
Just a couple of random thoughts about pans...
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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 45,000 original miles
1966 Grande Parisienne, 396 1 of 23 factory air cars
I have looked at the full floor for the Acadian/Novas with 4 speed hump and bucket seat mounts and thought that is the way to go. Sand blasting the floors will show what is left and from there I will decide what way to go.
The one thing that concerns me about the one piece Acadian floor is taking that much structure out of a unibody all at one time. A guy would want to be very sure the rest of the car is well secured in place.
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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 45,000 original miles
1966 Grande Parisienne, 396 1 of 23 factory air cars
my Beaumont has rust at the 4 foot sections , also some pin holes over de cross braces, so when i ordered the front to rear floor pans , the idea was to cover that area to make it solid,
my question is how much do i cut , ( i dont think cutting the whole area which the complete pan is about to be welded ) I did cut all the rust spots but there is stil the pin holes in question that are by the brace area,
is it best to sand blast this pins hole area or remove ALL rusted metal all over even the pin holes ??? there is also a bit of rust on the back passenger wall of the body ( that wall is where the window crank assembly is bolted , just by the rear inner fender )) i have also one toe board on the drivers side to be changed ( actually there is about 4 inches by 5 ) that has been cut due to rust, just under the dim switch.
it does look a bit complicated to work arround this area due to the steering column and pedal linkage and cables.
my other weak spot is the seat pans wich will be both changed including the brace ( is this brace ment to be welded to the frame ?? it looks that way ) so after i weld the brace i will weld both seat pans in place , i hope these pans have a bent area to be welded on the vertical part between the seat pan and floor pan , i have rust just on the bend on the edge of that wall part between the seat and floor pan !!!!
i did consider a full pan but getting that thing in there when the frame is not comming off is next to impossible.......
if any one wants to give me anny hints of any kind , dont be shy
to your demand i can post pictures of the floor
my last concern is a weak spot by the safety belt bolts just on top of the tunnel at the far end by the back seat , there is ruste there , and it will have to be reinforced
it is like a crack and when i step over the tunnel i could feel a slight spring in the tunnel , but vey weak .
well thats it , next step will be the trunk area that might need a pan or two , once i remove the gas tank i will be able to decide.
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1967 BEAUMONT 2 DOOR POST ALL NEW 283
1965 CHEV BEL AIR 230 3 SPEED
I LIKE THEM PLAIN , I LOVE BENCH SEATS , POVERTY CAPS,NO TRIM.
I HAVE THIS THING FOR A 4 DOOR 65 BISCAYNE 6 CYL STD DONT KNOW WHY ?
Not sure if this will make it better or worse, but.........
When I was debating whether to do partial or complete floors, my 13year old son and I were scraping that tar junk off the floors to see how they looked. I commented that I was thinking of doing partial floors, and patching the pinhole areas, just to make it easier. His reply was "Dad, how do you know a year from now the spots with the pinholes won't be rusty again?" 13 years old, but I couldn't argue with excellent logic. I did front to back, both sides.
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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 45,000 original miles
1966 Grande Parisienne, 396 1 of 23 factory air cars
Yes. He had a good point. I might as well do it now instead of doing 1/2 now and the other half in a year or two, saying "stupid, stupid, stupid" over and over again.
I know that these cars we fix up never see bad weather after they are fixed but it really is not that much more work to do floors completely and not have to worry about them again.
I can't say for you car, not having seen the floor, but I really thought my floor was not bad. Looking back, I have no regrets having done the whole thing.
I can't speak for Beaumont floors being harder or easier than Acadian though. I've only done 2 Acadians. However, I actually enjoyed the job. It is very rewarding seeing it done.
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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 45,000 original miles
1966 Grande Parisienne, 396 1 of 23 factory air cars
It's always hard to tell from pics but it sure looks like pretty well the whole pan will be soft.
One option you have is a whole pan slit down the middle and installed in 2 pieces. Easier to install and still covers the whole floor. Would that be option?
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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 45,000 original miles
1966 Grande Parisienne, 396 1 of 23 factory air cars
