Storage Buildings, Used Classrooms for Sale from only $13,000.00

TINY · Guru

Cost for building addition on house?

dualquadpete · Canadian Poncho Superstar!

Tiny, I'm guessing 10grand. Bulding permit, survey of propery, concrete pad, & engineers specks on truss's etc. When I built my garage 24X 36 I even had to go to health Dept because of septic tank that's no where near garage, that was another 75 bucks just to have them sign off on it, I ended up with about 25Grand in it & only have insulation & vapor barrier on inside. That's my guess anyway

-- Edited by dualquadpete on Saturday 30th of January 2010 04:28:26 PM

gparis7 · Canadian Poncho Superstar!

TINY wrote:

Im thinking of building a 15x20 room on my house how much can expect to spend?

In my part of the world you can count on approx $100.00 per sqare foot finished to code (unless you do all labour). I added a large piece on my house in 2003; it cost me between $55 & $60 per square foot then.

59poncho · Poncho Master!

If you get some friends to help with all the insulating, drywall, trim and doors, and all the finishing stuff you can cut costs that way. I "think" i know someone that could help with alot of that.

ak 67sd · Poncho Master!

Depends on your foundation requirements as well... so ball park:
$10000 for piles (5-16"x20') gradebeam (8"x24")
$6000-8000 materials
$2-3000 windows
$2500 flooring and fixtures
$500 permits/misc

**assembly (and demolition) required by owner for those prices (except the concrete).

you cannot get anyone to even show up around here for $100/ft2... our market is very expensive...

ak

TINY · Guru

My house has a stone foundation I am wondering if that I can still attach the addition without getting into the old foundation there will be no basment on the addition maybe just a crawl space. 2 windows, french doors for the deck and possibley 2 sky lights, the roof will not need to attatch to the old roof if I make a step down into the new room. I going to get a contractor for the foundation but im shure I can handle the rest, Im hoping I can do it for under $25,000 providing the bank will lend me the money from the equidy in my home.

-- Edited by TINY on Saturday 30th of January 2010 07:29:08 PM

65sssd · Poncho Master!

Piles and a grade beam? Are you building on a swamp? What's wrong with hard pan, footings and a foundation? Your right about the $100.00 sq ft, more like $150.00. I'm just bugging you about the grade beam and piles. What are those for again and why do you need them?

4SPEED427 · A Poncho Legend!

Where we live (both ak and I) you need that. Red River valley is famous for foundation shifting. Not a rock in sight.

carbuff2007 · Addicted!

Think I would get a HOLMES INSPECTION first. lol

jmont64 · Canadian Poncho Superstar!

I think you'd be in line around 25 unless you have to go the pile route. It's really rare around here to see piles and a 3 foot crawl space is easy and cheap. When a person is figuring a price between 100 to 150 a foot there are alot of big ticket items in there like your cabinetry, tubs, showers, hot water tank, furnace, and other stuff you need for a complete house but if you are just needing a couple rooms you probably don't need any of this. Maybe some baseboard heaters and the rest is quite inexpensive and there really isn't a whole lot of labor for that size of an addition.

59poncho · Poncho Master!

the tough part might be is how you do your foundation and how it attaches to your house. With it being a rock wall foundation it might cost a bit to get a plan drawn up and the inspections. Also make sure you check that whomever you use as a contractor has insurance!! You might want to consider doing a seperate building with just a small bridge conecting them, that way you dont have to disturb your foundation and worry about it. I could do your interior trim for you, which will just cost a couple brews!

-- Edited by 59poncho on Sunday 31st of January 2010 03:07:19 AM

Taylor55 · Poncho Master!

Up here in Timmins it is around $200 a square foot. The most expensive part is the concrete. I would strongly suggest a heated floor in the concrete. More expensive at the beginning but much more economical and confortable in the long term. Good luck with your construction project and hopefully you can get help from your friends that live nearby to keep costs under control.

Al

65acadiantoplist · Addicted!

Taylor55 wrote:

Up here in Timmins it is around $200 a square foot. The most expensive part is the concrete. I would strongly suggest a heated floor in the concrete. More expensive at the beginning but much more economical and confortable in the long term. Good luck with your construction project and hopefully you can get help from your friends that live nearby to keep costs under control.

Al

Where Timmins LOL

427carl · A Poncho Legend!

TINY wrote:

My house has a stone foundation I am wondering if that I can still attach the addition without getting into the old foundation there will be no basment on the addition maybe just a crawl space. 2 windows, french doors for the deck and possibley 2 sky lights, the roof will not need to attatch to the old roof if I make a step down into the new room. I going to get a contractor for the foundation but im shure I can handle the rest, Im hoping I can do it for under $25,000 providing the bank will lend me the money from the equidy in my home.

If you are using 1 wall of "old" house, then you just need a renovation permit?

If you issued a $1000.00 credit to 50 of us, and we sent you $500.00 each, you'd have the $25,000.00 for free Write off the credits as advertising..... wink

ak 67sd · Poncho Master!

The main reason for the piles (compared to where you guys are) is frost, secondary is the soil bearing. You guys have a very shallow frost penetration, I designed a lab in London, ON the footings were shallow strip footings. Most houses here are on a strip footing approx 6' deep, but all additions are on piles, and not shallow! Depending on the soil, our basements are piled as well... (so toss in 50 piles for a big house, the costs add up!) minimum code is 16', but i do 20-24' here... (holmes on homes is the Minimum standard! not the best practice!)... I would never recommend residential code for foundations unless someone is really trying to cut corners or just looking to get rid of a new house (developer)... a little extra rebar goes a loooonnngg way!!! There is no reason you can't do a slab on grade house here, it will just move up and down maybe 1/2" with the frost heave...(that's how we do detached garages) the trick is not having one part of your house heave and another part doing something else... which IS inevitable when you have two different foundation conditions...you just plan around it (see below)...

What you are going to end up with is some differential movement between your home on stone and the addition, it will probably be minimal though (unless you are on bedrock?)....just consider the transition between the two in your finishes (i.e. don't drywall straight thru the ceiling on both unless you want to see a crack next year, break it up with a bulkhead). Also do not try to line up the roofs unless you want to see some movement there too! Having it step down or tie in another way is best.... Unforetunately I'm not an expert on your regional differences in design between here and there...I'd consult with someone who has dealt with the same condition you are planning (I'd ask a few and see if the stories/suggestions match!)

ak

jmont64 · Canadian Poncho Superstar!

I realize soil conditions are different from place to place but we don't end up with piles here unles we are in the lake or in a swamp. We dig it out, geotech takes a look at our soil and determines our footing width and away we go. Typical strip footings here are 16" x 8" and widen out to 18 or 20 if soil conditions aren't quite as good. Even with 12' high concrete walls the footings are usually only 18" and there is no settling at all. As far as frost you simply go down another 2 or 3 feet. We only need 2 feet here but if you need 5 feet it only takes a few hours longer to do a higher wall. Footing doesn't change and it just costs a couple more metres of concrete on a small addition like that. Rebar is the cheapest insurance you can put in but I'd be really surprised if you had to do piles. I've seen alot of different soil conditions and they usually are able to come up with a type of strip footing for us and they don't settle when done right. As far as in floor heating I'm a big fan of it in a shop or a new house but in an addition like that it may be cost prohibitive for the small area that you are taking care of. The other thing I mentioned above when guys are quoting 200 bucks a foot there are things you probably won't need like the mechanical and the othere stuff mentioned. Prices like that start including granite counter tops and some pretty high end flooring and finishing. The sky is the limit on what you what to spend but if you are just doing a rec area or a bedroom you can do it pretty reasonable. One of the last houses we did they spent over 600 thousand on just their cabinetry and counter tops. It sure doesn't have to be like that.

Canadian Poncho · A Poncho Legend!

Jeff, we converted our attached garage into a granny flat for Connies parents. Just doing this cost a fair bit over your budget. PM me for details...

Todd

TINY · Guru

Got my first estimate back $67,000 I cant even belive it! that is way to rich for my blood.

Taylor55 · Poncho Master!

I guess I wasn't too far off at $200 per sq ft. Now that can be reduced considerably. First I would spend the money and get a professional artichect to draw your plans . This will be a little pricy but you might be able to make a deal with him in exchange for work on his vehicles and toys. With the prints he can also supply you with a complete material list. With stamped plans in hand getting permits will be easy. There is also no time frame on the plans when they are stamped. Half of the estimate you recieved is labour and the contractor's markup on material.

Al

cdnpont · Canadian Poncho Superstar!

We did a 24x30' (720sq') "Great room" one floor addition with a full basement on our little1954 bungalow back in 99. Two friends and my dad did everything ourself except the poured basement, cuts into the exsisting basement wall and drywall finishing. My wife and I called in every favour we possibly could. The permit cost about 1200 as it needed a variance because it was so large. It took almost 2 years to completely finish it inside (was good to the weather within 4 months) but the time and effort was well worth it. I can't believe I was ever that ambitious, and probably never will be again, but it was one heck of a learning experiance to say the least. We really live in this great room and still love it 10 years on.

I was just simply lucky to have the time and help to make it happen when it did.

Doing it ourselves, the total cost was about 60K. I was told at the time it would have cost 100k, had a contractor done it.

Pontiacanada · A Poncho Legend!

Cost us $20,000.00. Full poured foundation attached to our old stone foundation, insulated, electrical, one average size door into the room from the rest of the house, one out into the back yard, and one down to the basement, two 2 'x 3' windows. 8' x 25'.
Didn't need a permit, it was Grandfathered because of a existing closed in "porch" (crap).

-- Edited by Pontiacanada on Friday 12th of February 2010 07:17:10 AM

427carl · A Poncho Legend!

TINY wrote:

Im thinking of building a 15x20 room on my house how much can expect to spend?

How about pouring a set of footings and 'driving " a pre fab building on the footings?

Kitchener / Waterloo

Storage Buildings, Used Classrooms for Sale from only $13,000.00

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Date Listed	10-Feb-10
Price	$13,000.00
Address	Waterloo, ON, Canada View map
Size (sqft)	768

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-- Edited by 427carl on Friday 12th of February 2010 08:48:52 PM