I have the original 7024110 2GV not the 2GC on my car's engine.
(see below)

The basic 2G design remained unchanged throughout its production run. The main distinguishing features are a power valve in the bottom of the float bowl, and a side hung float with the needle and seat inverted in the airhorn. The power valve is the same as used in the 4G four barrel and the accelerator pump is a similar design.
Early 2GC carburetor

The 2GC is the automatic choke version with the choke coil mounted on the side of the carburetor. In early versions (1955 - late 60's) the choke thermostat assembly is attached to the airhorn (top part) of the carburetor.

The choke coil is heated by hot air drawn through a tube connected to the intake manifold at the exhaust crossover or the exhaust manifold.

This layout was used in marine applications into the late 1980's. In many cases, the hot air choke was replaced with an electric choke coil.

Pontiac 2GC

Starting in the late 1960's the choke thermostat moved down to the throttle body. This arrangement was used until the last domestic automotive application in 1979.

Chevrolet 2GV Carburetor

Another choke arrangement, used mainly on Chevrolet engines was the 2GV, in which the 'V' referred to the choke coil being remotely mounted on the manifold.

Carburetor Size and CFM

Rochester 2G carburetors came in two basic groups: big and small.

The small 2-Jets were used until the early 70`s, where they last appeared on 307 Chevy engines.

Large 2-Jets, with a bigger bolt pattern, started in the late 60`s on BOP engines. By 1973, all automotive 2G`s used the large flange.

Some classes of stock car racing need large Rochester 2-Jet carbs. These can be found on early 70`s Chevy engines, including governed big-block motors in school buses. The school bus carbs require modification to the throttle body assembly to be usable.

 

sooo.. i put the manual choke on and put it wide open, but when i press the gas, the idle cam drops and i have no idle so it stalls out. Is there supposed to be some sort of spring in the choke piston? I dont see one in any diagrams though. Is the arm supposed to be bent a certian way? Its just weird that it worked a month ago, but not now. i dont think i changed anything?

I'll have another look sometime today, thx for the info guys.

One suggestion was a keyed power source.,. ignition.   There were a few posts earlier in this thread.

i was fooling around with the manual choke and almost have it right, but it just wasent sounding right. So im thinking, is it running on all cylinders? I put my hands on the header tubes and a couple of them are cool, while the other ones are hot!! HMMMM! So I pull out the plugs (after I checked for spark, and i also grabbed the plastic handled screwdriver instead of the rubber one..OUCH!! LOL!!) and they were a little dirty so i just quickly cleaned them, put them back in and presto!!! Car runs fine. I think over the winter as i started it now and again it just got some carbon buildup and thats why i was having such a hard time. Im learning so much with this car and your guys help, thx!!

i was thinking about some crazy glue soon!!LOL Thanks for the kind words about the car, its sitting on cut springs and if you see alot of rat rods they have the same look to them, and it doesent cost alot. I would love to restore it back to original, but it costs too much and i really dont think that would be me.

yeah, I geuss you really have to think about it in a simple way, its usually something really easy to fix.
I did have a good day yesterday with the car as i first got it running better, then i had no brakes and saw that it was leaking where i put the new front flex hoses on, so i fixed that. Then i was trying to fix the gas gauge and figured out the break was in the trunk, so that was an easy fix, and then made its home(garage) a little nicer with a new wall and cleaned it up a bit.
Oh, and after that I wired up my neighbors garage with a motion light and a new light out front and I did it right the first time!! That usually doesent happen with me!!