I expected to see mass quantities of these online, but only see a few. I have 5 of 6 working. I could solder the 6th one if the kids didnt borrow the soldering gun, but should replace it anyway. If anybody has a few spares that they'd be willing to send me, I'd gladly pay for them and shipping. The contact at the bulb is poor in all of them from weakened springs, They could use a cleaning, but if the contact isnt even touching, cleaning wont fix it. Someone used wood screws from the bottom to force contact in most, effective for now, but very lazy job. If you know and good repro's, please send a link. I prefer not to order from the US. Thanks!
Do as I do with all of these unless they are completely rusted out. On the inner, I believe, side of the terminals looking into the plug, depress the lock tang and remove the terminal. Then you an properly clean it with sand paper.
Then retension the terminal to make it stand taller closer to the base of the bulb and reinstall into the socket. Do it with all of the others and then pack it full of grease.
Now, another very common problem with these sockets is that the outer ground ring pulls out of the base of the plastic socket also causing this problem with the bulb not contacting the terminals. Take a screw driver, place it "across" the 2 metal tabs that touch the tail lamp housing, and while holding onto the socket with the other hand, push the metal ring back down into the socket.
I had tried to force a ground ring back down a few days ago but didnt want to break it, maybe I just didnt push hard enough or in the right manner. I'll give it another go. I couldnt get the terminals out before, but with both your suggestions, if I can retension the terminals, it should be easy. I got all the info I was looking for, thanks!
You will have to really force it to break it!!! But it may be seated already, though..... Use a tiny flat blade to depress the lock tangs towards the outer side of the socket. Once you do one and inspect how it works, you will be on your way.
Remember to retension that lock tab back to ensure it locks the terminal in place when you reinstall it!!!!
i used toothpicks in my 72 olds for years to make the sockets work i know it isnt correct, but with the lenses in place u couldnt tell and they worked fine, and the price was right
Frankly, I think these early GM type sockets are a disgrace. They just don't stand up to time. Much as it pains me to say this, I have used early (1960's thru 1970's) FORD sockets.
Over here the Ford type were made of brass and they are excellent quality. I just spliced them in and I've never had any further issues with them.
The problem with all of these sockets, no matter which brand, is being open to the elements and therefore, corrosion. A very simple fix, make sure they are clean and fill them with grease. No more issues.
As I have said in the past, working with GM for 20 years and electrical being one of my favorites, and sometimes not so favorite areas to work with, I got use to the corrosion issues and how to work with it and to create fixes for it as well.
If I had gotten new sockets, as seventy2plus2 suggested, first of all they probably would have come with 2 white wires, so I would have had to cut the terminals off and soldered them on to the original harness for that original look. But that is just me! It would be easier for me to clean the terminals, if feasible, and reinstall them back into the sockets.
