Bill, looks good to me. Is that a 4X4??? I just got a 2010 with 10,000 KM's on it & Love it!! But paid alot more than what your looking at, check the 4whl. drive if it's got it, known for seizeing up if not used regularly. Ray will likely "pop" in here as well as he has one pretty close to what your looking at

-- Edited by dualquadpete on Tuesday 4th of January 2011 09:14:42 AM

Just a thought, I spent a ton of time and money rebuilding the A/C on my
wifes '03 Suburban. That rear air is the killer. Make sure it works !!!!!!!!!!
fwiw...

Nice

Geeze Carl, Nice bumper on the blonde ! Took me a few minutes to see the camaro, Phew!

73SC wrote:

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Hey Bill, here is mine, bought it brand new at City. This was close to $60,000 on the road back in September 1999 so I bought it to keep it for 15 years, that's just the accountant in me amortizing the purchase cost to be $4,000 per year.

I am happy that we purchased this vehicle and plan to keep it for at least the intended period I indicated above. Our truck has 232,000 km on it right now and it has been predominantly driven by my wife, basically used as a station wagon for running kids around, family trips, never towed.

Here is a list of major trouble spots we have encountered.

1. Door actuators  - they don't like the cold, dealer repaired 6 times under warranty, twice not at $240 per.  I buy universal units in bulk now for about $6 and do the repair myself. I replaced three in the fall and two have failed with the recent cold snap just before Christmas.

2. Flex plate - replaced once, $950 repair.

3. Transfer case - Three rebuilds at $2,500 per, last rebuild one year ago.

4. Leaking intake manifold - twice repaired, unfortunately second time was done incorrectly resulting in connecting rod failure.

5. Air conditioning - as pointed out, troublesome in a vehicle with so much glass as it is absolutely essential. $500 - $1500

6. Front hub assemblies - $500 each, we have had 3 replaced. ABS sensors are attached to this.

7. Radio - lights burn out a lot, easiest thing is to exchange radio, $120 per exchange, twice done.

8. Tires - on fourth set. BFG Long Trails at about $185 per.

9. Brakes - Front brakes last about 25,000 to 30,000 km, it is heavy.

10. Engine rebuild at 210,000 km due to washed rod bearing - $3,000.

Notwithstanding all this the truck is a work horse with power to spare, comfort of a Cadillac and room to spare. I once drove from Cornwall ON to Fredericton NB on a tank of fuel (160 litres) which was over 1,100 kilometers but in town it is thirsty. Never regretted owning it that's for sure.

Don't know if this helps, call me if you like.

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Wow it's amazing how all that stuff adds up.  Not taking into consideration of what you could sell it for today it has cost you about 600 a month until now.  I'm amazed you haven't had to replace a fuel pump yet.   The fuel out here in B.C. is terrible and usually I only get a 100 thousand out of a fuel pump.  It's always the question when the option was leasing versus owning.  I've always owned but sometimes when things are added up leasing looks pretty good, new vehicle and no tires to buy.

 

my 03 Trailblazer is for sale.162k. make you a good deal ?

I buy and part out 88-98 Chevy 4x4 trucks as a part time hobby and to make some cash to invest in more tools and in my garage. The 99 suburbans are a carry over from this style of truck. In my opinion these are the best trucks GM ever built. The weakest areas  have been pointed out and it is an absolute must to always check for antifreeze in the oil when doing an oil change. The intake gasket style on the 96-99 vortec small block is the weakest part of the engine. At 150,000 k's it should be replaced with an updated GM gasket set or a heavy duty Victor/Felpro set. When cold the engines also have some piston slap because they are forged and the skirts are very short. The tolerances are also very generous and the engines are noisy when cold.

Under normal driving conditions the rest of the powertrain is really good as long as you follow the manufactures guidelines for changing all fluids, antifreeze, transmission , transfer case, front and rear diffs. When changing use synthetic oils as it makes a huge difference in cold temperatures.

I do not understand why Ray has had to replace the trasfer case so many times as the only time I get to sell good used ones are to people who absue them in the bush getting stuck mud bogging. Occasionally the acutator will seize from lack of use and need to be replaced. I currently have about 5 transfer cases in stock both manual and electronic.  There are two types of diffs that were installed one with a 10 bolt cover and another  heavy duty with a 14 bolt cover. The 14 bolt is almost bullit proof. U joints will seize and start to squeal when backing up as the originals have no grease fittings and should be replaced with ones that have a grease fitting.


This style of truck should be oiled annually by rust check or an equivilant company. The only year I would not recommend is the 1995 as it is a sort of crossover and has many parts that are a one year only. 88-91, 92-94, 96-98 interchange parts quite easily.

I would buy that 1999 over a 2000- 2005 any day. We have a 2000 silverado and it is an absolute must to service the rear disc brakes twice a year.

Good luck and Happy Motoring with your new to you Suburban.

Al

Bill, I've never bought a brand new vehicle until a few weeks ago. The discounts were too much for me to pass up. Including my 2001 Olds Intrigue as a "clunker", I got $15,500 in discounts off the sticker , and still had my '03 GMC 2500 HD to trade in .
This is an LTZ, 5.3 with pretty much every option except the 400 horse 6.2 and the sunroof.  

wagon64sd wrote:

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...ray how much will it cost me to fill the beast up..nevermind i still have time to back out.

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Last time I filled up was $196 and it was low.

Al - put a transfer case aside for me probbaly going to need one soon . I think it is a case of not using it, not much call for 4X4 on Eglinton Avenue in Toronto.