I've now removed the carpet from the old '66 rag. After filling two bags with old carpet, insullation, thick tar-paper-like sound proofing, sand, coins and old beer caps...I can see the floor. Although it is not pretty, it is a lot better than I had expected for a 45 year old, well driven car. The questions now are...
What should I be doing to secure the "oval plugs"? Are there gaskets that can be purchased? Should they be caulked?...
With regards to the floor, should I be painting it with a rust inhibitor such as that which is often seen on Stacey David's tv show Gears? (The car is more-or-less a "survivor" car which now-a-days rarely see's rain. Therefore, am I better off leaving it as is?)
Once these questions are answered, I can install the carpet which was provided by the good people at NOS Reproductions.
Thanks in advance for your expertise!
-- Edited by 03cts sport on Monday 2nd of May 2011 01:32:39 PM
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"So when you spot violence, or bigotry, or intolerance or fear or just garden-variety hatred or ignorance, just look it in the eye and think... The good outnumber you, and we always will." Patton Oswalt
For the rust I would sandblast the bad areas. I use a portable spot blaster. If that is not an option use a wire wheel. A good rust inhibitor will work. I use epoxy primer on a bare metal that has been cleaned up. Anywhere there is heavy pitting has the potential for pinholes that will need to be repaired.
Thanks Brad. Re the "seam sealer", I'm guessing that is also what I should use on the "seams" where the old factory sealent has broken apart? (Also, is "seam sealer" the name of the product? Available at places such as NAPA?) thx again.
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"So when you spot violence, or bigotry, or intolerance or fear or just garden-variety hatred or ignorance, just look it in the eye and think... The good outnumber you, and we always will." Patton Oswalt
I powder coat the plugs and do not seal them as I want them to leak out moisture if theres a spill.... If they are powder coated they shouldnt rust around the contact area my thoughts...
Good advise. Seam sealer is your friend and can be painted over. If you have a pin hole don't hit it with a welder unless you want to replace the whole panel. The hole will go from tiny to BIG!
Thanks Brad. Re the "seam sealer", I'm guessing that is also what I should use on the "seams" where the old factory sealent has broken apart? (Also, is "seam sealer" the name of the product? Available at places such as NAPA?) thx again.
The seam sealer is what was used from the factory on all seams and is usually cracked or dried out. You can buy it in a caulking tube, quart can or spray on. I get mine at the local NAPA. Pro-Form makes the stuff that I use.
Thanks guys, I picked up some seam sealer at NAPA today and a wire brush for the drill. They didn't have any of the rust inhibitor paint (other than in a can). Any suggestions? Also, should I be using adhesive for the carpet? thx
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"So when you spot violence, or bigotry, or intolerance or fear or just garden-variety hatred or ignorance, just look it in the eye and think... The good outnumber you, and we always will." Patton Oswalt
I tried POR 15 years ago. The stuff seemed to work great! I used it on some surface rust on a '72 GMC. I had the truck for about 10 years, the rust did not come through and no signs that it got worse. At the time, it came in clear and gloss black. You brush it on so not the best for finish painted surfaces, but floorboards and undercarriage are perfect. They say you can put it on right over teh rust - clean off the loose stuff and brush away. That's what I did and as I said, it worked for me.
no need to gue the carpet down. Let it relax in the car for a day or two. Then complete the install. There is some install hints on our web site www.nosreproductions.com
"So when you spot violence, or bigotry, or intolerance or fear or just garden-variety hatred or ignorance, just look it in the eye and think... The good outnumber you, and we always will." Patton Oswalt
Nice job Geoff! POR-15 is good. I would seal the plugs. Replacement plugs are available cheap.
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Prince Edward Island
'64 Parisienne CS "barn find" - last on the road in '86 ... Owner Protection Plan booklet, original paint, original near-mint aqua interior, original aqua GM floor mats, original 283, factory posi, and original rust.
Alright... As its been 45 years, and since I have the interior gutted, I thought I'd proactively tackle the heater core today. I eventually got it out, and I'm glad I did as it looks to have a very small leak, and the foam on the flapper door was damp enough that it disinegrated when I tried to vacume it. I've heard from various sources that there seem to be a long and a short version of the heater core's for the 66 Beaumont. By the looks of it, I may have a long one. (This is the first time in my life that I've been in a position to say this LOL!) My questions are: -Are heater core's something that can be re-cored at a radiator shop? -Other than the posibility of the rad shop pricing themselves out of the equation (as what looks to be a smaller replacement at NAPA is $110.00), is there any reason not to go with a "re-core"?
thx again!
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"So when you spot violence, or bigotry, or intolerance or fear or just garden-variety hatred or ignorance, just look it in the eye and think... The good outnumber you, and we always will." Patton Oswalt
Personally if I can get my rad shop to do it for the same price I go that route. Some of the stuff is off shore and is priced pretty low but I've heard complaints about the quality.
Thanks for chiming in Jerel. I certainly agree with you with regards to the main radiators. But as I've never had any experience with heater cores, I'm guessing your feedback means that rad shops can re-core these items, and that you feel the quality of well done re-cored core shouldn't be an issue? thx
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"So when you spot violence, or bigotry, or intolerance or fear or just garden-variety hatred or ignorance, just look it in the eye and think... The good outnumber you, and we always will." Patton Oswalt
I took my rad in and had it re-cored and took my heater core in at the same time. He just cleaned it up and said it had been replaced at one time but mentioned that it was alot better than the replacement ones you can buy now. That was 3 years ago or so.
By the looks of it, I may have a long one. (This is the first time in my life that I've been in a position to say this LOL!)
My questions are: -Are heater core's something that can be re-cored at a radiator shop? -Other than the posibility of the rad shop pricing themselves out of the equation (as what looks to be a smaller replacement at NAPA is $110.00), is there any reason not to go with a "re-core"?
thx again!
Ha, ha! All that Sanka drinking is equal to Viagra!
Recore would be the way to go if it is not too expensive.
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Prince Edward Island
'64 Parisienne CS "barn find" - last on the road in '86 ... Owner Protection Plan booklet, original paint, original near-mint aqua interior, original aqua GM floor mats, original 283, factory posi, and original rust.
Re core quoted at $107 plus tax. A fair price I think. Ready by Monday. thx all. Sanka time...
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"So when you spot violence, or bigotry, or intolerance or fear or just garden-variety hatred or ignorance, just look it in the eye and think... The good outnumber you, and we always will." Patton Oswalt
