OK the 67 Beaumont is off to Moncton for the nationals this week, and wouldnt you know it, i just developed a coolant leak. Windshield fogged up, strong smell, small green puddle on my floor mat. I suspect the heater core has crapped out, and there is no way I can get a new one before I have to leave. The leak appears to have stopped, and the total leak was less than 1/2 cup. I will be driving it at the show. Any suggestions on the best course of action? Anyone ever use 'stop leak' tabs? I dont really want to put anything in there that doesnt belong. I can spare a few hours to replace it, but I doubt I can get my hands on one by tomorrow.
1. Tabs? 2. Bypass? 3. Ignore it? 4. Remove it to see if it might just be a connection?
5. Other?
-- Edited by Turn2Stone on Tuesday 5th of July 2011 07:58:54 AM
I changed out the heater core in a '69 el camino a few years ago and it is a LOT easier than you would think. You don't even have to disconnect the cables. Disconnect the hoses after draining the rad down. Undo the retaining nuts on the engine side of the firewall. Get under the dash and work the heater box away from the firewall and rotate it back gently. Remove a couple of retainers and the core comes right out. I think an experienced person could do it all in well less than an hour. All bets are off if the car is air conditioned.
-- Edited by Keith Tedford on Tuesday 5th of July 2011 09:13:04 AM
I will definitely do the swap myself, but I dont have a new one. I may just have the old one rebuilt as the odds of getting a part that doesnt fit is about 50/50. So I was hoping to just 'get by' until after the show, then I'll do whatever it takes. It is a non-A/C car. Thanks for the input. Should I just pull both hoses from the firewall and connect them? I believe they are 3/4 and 5/8? Can an adapter be found easily to join them? Tks again
The core can be left w/ hoses open/removed but the waterpump needs to continue pumping.. A flush T is a good joiner if on hand but sometimes the longer of the two hoses will reach between engine in/out points and you can make any difference of hose diameter fit.. Try undoing the short hose from the engine side then long one from the core end hooking it instead to the engine point you pulled the short hose off..
~
__________________
I like real cars best...especially the REAL real ones! ----------------------------------------------------------------
I used a connector that I found at Canadian tire in the help section for a while. I have seen a short hose connected to both sides of the engine connections. On the 67 full size there is one nut not accessible without getting the inner fender out of the way.
__________________
1967 Parisienne 2+2 1967 Grande Parisienne
1967 Laurentian 1967 Strato Chief
Remember, "The Government" only has money confiscated from us.
My experience with mid-60's A-Bodies is the heater core removal is a PITA. GM manuals show unbolting the bottom of the RF fender, separate the fender from the inner wheel well and use a block to pry an opening. I've found easier to just remove the whole front clip. All for one bolt. I know some who have cut a section out of the inner wheel well. Kind of like changing plugs on a late 70's V8 Monza.
Apparantly a 3/4" hole in the inner well will do. Stick a plug in it after. I'm only going by the info I've found as I have never replaced one. Some sites referred to the pita job you mentioned and others say its a 1hr job. I'll bypass and get at it when I get back. I'll soon see for myself. Thanks for the tips!
Yep, by-pass is the way to go. Take your time doing the change (mine has been by-passed for 2 years). It is a PITA if you have big hands I hear.
__________________
Prince Edward Island
'64 Parisienne CS "barn find" - last on the road in '86 ... Owner Protection Plan booklet, original paint, original near-mint aqua interior, original aqua GM floor mats, original 283, factory posi, and original rust.
Agreed with the re-routing of the hose. A simple and quick job. I removed my heater core to have it rebuilt a couple of months ago. Always seem to be surprises with these old cars. In my case a wheel well bolt that wouldn't come off...and 45 year old firewall insulation that came crumbling down. And while you're at it you may want to replace the fan motor. (Also run water through your heater core to dilute the sticky antifreeze that will be spilling onto your floor. And I'd cut the hoses before removing them to prevent further damage to the core.) Good luck at the Nationals!
__________________
"So when you spot violence, or bigotry, or intolerance or fear or just garden-variety hatred or ignorance, just look it in the eye and think... The good outnumber you, and we always will." Patton Oswalt
I just replaced my heater core. It was a piece of cake with the inner fender removed. They are actually quite easy to get out IF your bolts are not seized. Mine still had lots of never seize on them from when I assembled it 20 years ago. It's easy to disconnect the 3 cables from the heater box and pull the whole thing out. It was in stock at the local Lordco. It must be a common heater core. I ordered a 67 chevelle heater core so it is the same. You will want to remove the glove box to make things easier as well. It took me a couple of hours without rushing the job. If you want to bypass it just buy the 5/8 - 3/4 plastic connector from your local parts guy.
Same issue happened to me last weekend! Purchased mine from Lordco as well ($70) ...perfect fit and in stock! ...about 4hrs to fix, but have to admitt ...it was a pain in the ass!
__________________
"you can't burn out, if your not on fire" -Jim Morrison
). It is a PITA if you have big hands I hear.
1956 Pontiac Pathfinder 2dr sedan, 496 - dyno'd 545 hp, stick shift, 4.11 posi - Hot Rod