Most published articles say to change the oil in the fall to get all the contaminents out. To my thinking I don't run enough miles in a year to have many contaminents so I just leave it in and change it to fresh oil in the spring. This removes any condensation that accumulated over the winter. Also if you choose to fog the engine then it should be protected for the winter and you would want to get the fogging out in the spring. Changing twice would seem like overkill but each to his own. Its a matter of your comfort level.
I follow manufacturer recommendations on mileage and elapsed time. Last oil Change was August 11th so in three months time it would be changed, just in time to go into storeage.
-- Edited by 73SC on Thursday 15th of September 2011 10:54:14 AM
I always changed before and after. Overkill, but cheap insurance for a peace of mind. But then again I overmaintain my cars anyway. Too each their own...and dont chinse out on cheap oil IMO
I change mine in the spring so that I am running it on fresh oil for the whole season......to me it just sits in the pan all winter anyways so doesn't really matter if it is clean or dirty
I change mine in the spring when I get it out and again 3 months later. That is usually enough to get me through the short season we have in Ontario. I don't change the oil before storing the car.
If someone has a good reason to change it I may change how I store the 3 cars I put in storage.
In the fall I drain and put in a bit of fresh gas, put in octane boost, lead additive & Stabil. Also check my anti-freeze. Put on a battery minder.
I start up my car periodically during the Winter on warmer days.
-- Edited by Pontiacanada on Thursday 15th of September 2011 06:45:09 AM
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Prince Edward Island
'64 Parisienne CS "barn find" - last on the road in '86 ... Owner Protection Plan booklet, original paint, original near-mint aqua interior, original aqua GM floor mats, original 283, factory posi, and original rust.
The GOAT gets it done in the spring, using brand name 10w-40 and a half a bottle of GM's "E.O.S." due to the fact that the "new oils" are not good for the lifters. And with all of my fleet, I always fill the oil filter with new oil before installing. It's policy where I work!
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"Repulsive since 1959"
2015 Camaro SS1 2014 GMC Sierra 1969 GTO 2005 Dodge Daytona Short Box Regular cab P/U 1979 Pontiac Grand Prix Enduro stock car
Mine got fresh oil early in the spring. I just changed it last week. I will drive it a bit this fall yet but will leave the oil till spring because I do start it and tinker with it during the winter. Oil and filter are cheap compared to the cost of the engine
The GOAT gets it done in the spring, using brand name 10w-40 and a half a bottle of GM's "E.O.S." due to the fact that the "new oils" are not good for the lifters.
And with all of my fleet, I always fill the oil filter with new oil before installing. It's policy where I work!
Buy oil with Zinc in it?
Oil w/ Zinc content recommended for older engines
Avoid the problem by choosing the right oil-- that has a zinc content of at least .11%.
I've done some research. Here is the zinc content of todays oils:
20W-50 AMSOIL (old) none AMSOIL (new) none Castrol GTX .12 Exxon High Performance .11 Havoline Formula 3 none Kendall GT-1 .16 Pennzoil GT Perf. none Quaker State Dlx. none Red Line none Shell Truck Guard .15 Spectro Golden 4 .15 Spectro Golden M.G. .13 Unocal .12 Valvoline All Climate .11 Valvoline Turbo .13 Valvoline Race .20 Valvoline Synthetic .12
20W-40 AMSOIL none Castrol Multi-Grade .12 Quaker State none
15W-50 Chevron .11 Mobil 1 none Mystic JT8 .15 Red Line none
I knew there was a reason I liked Castrol. I change mine in the spring. Engines have been fine so far, 11 years on 1, 16 on another, and 20 on the other.
Great "Zinc" list. Most of the time it's Castrol that i purchase. And sadly I see no 10w-40 Castrol on the list. i'd be willing to go 10w30 Castrol for the Zinc. Super advice here!
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"Repulsive since 1959"
2015 Camaro SS1 2014 GMC Sierra 1969 GTO 2005 Dodge Daytona Short Box Regular cab P/U 1979 Pontiac Grand Prix Enduro stock car
I wondered about Mobile 1 (thinging I had read they had Zinc) The list is a guide...
Check out your favorite brand on the brands website..
Here is the zinc content of todays oils:
20W-50
AMSOIL (old) none AMSOIL (new) none Havoline Formula 3 none Pennzoil GT Perf. none Quaker State Dlx. none Red Line none
20W-40 AMSOIL none Quaker State none
15W-50
Mobil 1 none Red Line none
5W-50
Quaker State Synquest none Pennzoil Performax none
5W-40 Havoline none
15W-40
AMSOIL (old) none AMSOIL (new) none Chevron Delo 400 none Red Line none
10W-30 AMSOIL (old) none AMSOIL (new) none Havoline Formula 3 none Mobil 1 none Pennzoil PLZ Turbo none Quaker State none Red Line none Spectro Golden M.G. none
5W-30 AMSOIL (old) none AMSOIL (new) none Havoline Formula 3 none Mobil 1 none Quaker State none Red Line none
Change the oil - it gets the acids out in the old oil that can etch bearings. I do this every year, and change it again in the spring. I start the car up about once a month and run it up to temo and drive it back and forth a bit to make sure everything gets lubed and is not seizing up.
Worked out that the 64 Catalina needed it's 2nd. change just before thanksgiving, drove it to Ottawa & back then stored it,no sense changing it again, also it's in heated garage all winter & I do try to fire it once a mth. to stop the t/converter from draining & over fill trans, which causes leaks at dip stick tube seal. Only put 6000mi on Cat this summer, down from last yr. was close to 8000mi.last summer
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Some times I wake up GRUMPY, but today I let her sleep in !!!!!!!!BLACKSTOCK Ont.
Oil w/ Zinc content recommended for older engines
I guess the bottom line is lots of fresh oil, will keep the old cars going... 
Put almost 1000 km on it this year....