Things were going pretty well until we got to removing the balancer...my buddy couldn't find his puller, so we used another style..destroyed the balancer..so I need to get a new one...not a huge deal though..the engine looks really good..so hopefully when it goes to the machine shop on Tuesday it will check out and be in as good a shape as it looks...we also broke the temp sending unit by accident...again probably not a huge deal...
Good work shawn. Were the main caps and rods stamped with numbers to go back in the same location ? Some times there not and you have to stamp them yourself. Would be a good idea to put the main caps back on the block in order they came off.
Things were going pretty well until we got to removing the balancer...my buddy couldn't find his puller, so we used another style..destroyed the balancer..so I need to get a new one...not a huge deal though..the engine looks really good..so hopefully when it goes to the machine shop on Tuesday it will check out and be in as good a shape as it looks...we also broke the temp sending unit by accident...again probably not a huge deal...
I think Ian found a balancer for me at Walker Auto when I was looking a couple of years ago Shawn.
Temp sender is an easy one. Just a temp light in your car, right? No gauge?
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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 45,000 original miles
1966 Grande Parisienne, 396 1 of 23 factory air cars
The caps and rods were not stamped but are set out in the order and side they came out of and the pistons will get tagged before they go to the machine shop. The caps will all get bolted back on in the order they came off. Carl, I'm not sure what it has for a temp gauge/light...as for the balancer..I've found them on line for a decent price, but will check Walkers as they have a huge sale on right now...
Good work shawn. Were the main caps and rods stamped with numbers to go back in the same location ? Some times there not and you have to stamp them yourself. Would be a good idea to put the main caps back on the block in order they came off.
You HAVE to mark the main caps and rods-especially the mains. Otherwise you're in for a huge $ Line Boring job. That is basic engine rebuilding knowledge.
If I had the tools to do it I would. That is why as soon as a piston came out the rod cap was put back on and the pistons were set out in order by the side they came out of. As I said they will be tagged before going to the shop, which is exactly how RCAF mechs do it before they send aircraft engine parts out for machining. However, I will ask Mark to mark everything for me...
So, the block and bits went to Brazier's today. He did a quick check of the cylinders and said they were worn about 8 thousandths...so they will get bored 30 thousandths...he figures in a couple of days he'll have it all sorted out and give me all the info I'll need to buy the rebuild kit...but he said everything looks really good considering the age of the block.
So after work I went to Walker's to pick up a pan for it, thinking that if Softy's sells a chrome oil pan for $60... Then I should be able to get a regular one out of Walker's for about the same price...maybe a bit cheaper considering their moving sale...NOPE! The cheapest one was $88 and he had to bring it in....so I'm leaning towards the chrome one...
Now I know that I sound like I'm being cheap...but I'm trying to save money for the machining..so far it's sounding like it will be around $1000 just in machining block and heads...
Oh I did find that Walker's had a brand new harmonic balancer for my engine, GM replacement part..$169...does that seem a tich expensive to anyone else...or is it just me?
boring usually comes in at around 240, without wash or anything they have to know the type of piston in order to do the final hone as far as the balacer goes repros are about 200 so your good
So after work I went to Walker's to pick up a pan for it, thinking that if Softy's sells a chrome oil pan for $60... Then I should be able to get a regular one out of Walker's for about the same price...maybe a bit cheaper considering their moving sale...NOPE! The cheapest one was $88 and he had to bring it in....so I'm leaning towards the chrome one...
As long as the chrome one is a good gauge metal, buy it, scuff it up, and shoot it whatever colour with some Duplicolour ($10.00). You're still ahead.
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Prince Edward Island
'64 Parisienne CS "barn find" - last on the road in '86 ... Owner Protection Plan booklet, original paint, original near-mint aqua interior, original aqua GM floor mats, original 283, factory posi, and original rust.
After basketball season, grad season, cottage season, 25th anniversary season and likely a few I'm forgetting, there's gonna be tons of time! I'll let you know...
Can you not use the oil pan on your engine now, just to save some money? It's can go on last of all after the rest of the engine is assembled, once you've pulled the other one.
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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 45,000 original miles
1966 Grande Parisienne, 396 1 of 23 factory air cars
I probably could....but...I did promise the 307 to Lyle...and as he's helping me I don't want to take too much..he know's I'm taking the accessories, carb, etc..but I have no idea what he's planning for it..so I think I'll leave it on and he can have it...
