Hey guys just had an Eaton posi unit with a 4-10 gears installed in 10 bolt in my 69 Beaumont and now I have major wheel hop in 1st and 2nd gear. Has anyone installed a set Lakewood lift bars part # 21312 in their car ?? Did it correct the problem ?? Im running a 375 h/p 350 with a 5 spd Tremec and dont want to shaking the hell outta the car every time I launch the car hard. Thanks guys
__________________
I have just purchased a 1969 Beaumont H/T for restoration. My first, I hope to have it completed in the next 2 or 3 years.
...I recently installed Hotchkis "boxed" lower trailing arms and sway bar. When I "lay into her" there's no wheel hop. (It "hopped" on launch before I made the change) ...that might help in your case?
__________________
"you can't burn out, if your not on fire" -Jim Morrison
...I recently installed Hotchkis "boxed" lower trailing arms and sway bar. When I "lay into her" there's no wheel hop. (It "hopped" on launch before I made the change) ...that might help in your case?
Hey guys just had an Eaton posi unit with a 4-10 gears installed in 10 bolt in my 69 Beaumont and now I have major wheel hop in 1st and 2nd gear. Has anyone installed a set Lakewood lift bars part # 21312 in their car ?? Did it correct the problem ?? Im running a 375 h/p 350 with a 5 spd Tremec and dont want to shaking the hell outta the car every time I launch the car hard. Thanks guys
traction aids will help Don't forget you are pretty stiffly geared that Tremec 1st gear x 4:10 is deadly Did you try pulling away at less than 5000 rpm??
-- Edited by 427carl on Thursday 30th of August 2012 01:01:28 PM
I've run a single air bag in the right rear spring on my 69 for some 20 odd years, same 4:10, eaton possi set up as yours. Haven't checked the pressure in a while but only 10 pounds cured the hop
Mine's a 12 bolt rear..you trust a 10 bolt with that power and a standard ? at least when I launch on slicks the trans and rear end are pre loaded. Just wonderin'
My car had bad wheel hop since I bought it. Earlier this year I installed UMI boxed lower and adjustable upper control arms and a UMI swaybar. That got rid of my wheel hop. James
Boxed my control arms years ago.. And added a ...GTO... sway bar in the 70's.. Still hopped until the air bag, but I think each car has it's own issues, a friend with a 70 SS 454 never had any hop, street tires or slicks, boxed arms, no sway bar..and no bag.
Wheel hop is common on the A-bodies. Most times paying attention to pinion angle and rear ride height can eliminate it. Ride height affects pinion angle, but then again so does the driveshaft length which could be an issue if you have done a transmission swap. Bolt-on aids, to my way of thinking on the coil sprung A-bodies, are a bit of a Band-Aid cure. I do believe that boxed lower and adjustable upper control arms, plus a rear stabilizer bar are the best fix for a street car. The adjustable upper arms address the pinion angle, and the rear stabilizer bar helps equalize tire planting & traction (it also makes it easier on your Positraction unit).
__________________
67 Chevelle Malibu Sport Coupe, Oshawa-built 250 PG never disturbed.
In garage, 296 cid inline six & TH350...
Cam, Toronto.
I don't judge a man by how far he's fallen, but by how far back he bounces - Patton
As cam said above you need to calculate your pinion angle... A lot of wheel hop was due to the cars being raised in the rear... I've used an air bag and ET street slicks and had no hop... Engine was a 350 w around 430hp, 4.56 gears, and a 4000 stall (10 bolt diff)... I have also picked up a set of no hop bars which I haven't installed yet, but they work to correct pinion angle as well... I'd suggest a set of drag radials first -might as well put that power to the use! and boxed lowers are an easy and worthwhile upgrade...
Ive got the factory control arms on mine, Ive boxed them both, poly bushings. Never had wheel hop till I put posi in, I put a set of QA1 No Hops in. No more wheel hop, the car seems to hook a bit better on a launch as well.
The only problem with the No hops was that my upper control arms needed to be shortened about 1.25" in order to bolt on. Im unsure why considering it was a bolt on part??
