Thanks., nice of you to notice.

PMD-242 wrote:

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THANKS FOR REPLY, LOVE YOUR CAR , CANT WAIT TILL MINE LOOKS THAT GOOD, GOT QUESTION WOULD YOU HAPPEN TO KNOW HOW MANY CARS WHERE MADE LIKE MINE, SILVER  WITH BLACK VINAL TOP AND BLACK INTERIOR, ITS NOT A JUDGE, OR DO YOU KNOW WHERE I COULD FIND OUT, IS YOUR GTO A JUDGE, MY CAR HAS  A YE 400 9790071 BLOCK 1969, IT IS DATE STAMPED MARCH 1969,# 62 HEADS , TURBO 400 TRANS, 355 REAR END,  SOME PEOPLE ON HERE SAY IT IS NOT ORIGINAL ENGINE , MADE TO EARLY FOR 1970,  ON DOOR IT SAYS 11/69,  WHAT DO YOU THINK ,IT DOES MAKE ME SAD  ,BUT AT SAME TIME I DONT THINK IT COULD HAVE BEEN REPLACIED WITH A BETTER MOTOR  BESIDES THE RAM AIRS, SO THAT OK.  WHAT DO YOU HAVE FOR MOTOR ETC , THANKS FOR VAN ISLAND

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 Option by option breakdowns are not available. Exterior colours from Eric White's book are here. I don't think your motor is original; Mine is 08B, made August 69. Castings are June July on the 068 intake and 64 heads that I still have. Shortblock is not oriinal to the car. Don't worry if your motor is non-original. Unless you're building a points judged trailer queen who cares? If you are going to drive this thing build a hot motor (you have an excellent foundation in a 69 400 block) and have fun. Your block is probably drilled for 4 bolts but fitted with 2 bolt caps. Unless you are going for REALLY big power don't worry about the 2 bolt 4 bolt thing, it's much less important than it is when building a Chevy. I have 2 bolt caps on mine and I'm a little over 500. Good rods are the most important upgrade if you're building power. Stock rods are fine for stock power and RPM limits.

Mine is a 1972 455+.034", 0 deck, Wiseco forged pistons, Eagle rods, 60919 (Ram Air 4) cam, Rhoads lifters, Edelbrock round port heads, 1.65 Scorpion rockers, RPM intake, Custom Qjet by Cliff, Doug's 1 7/8" headers, THM 200 4R, 10" Continental "Jim Hand special" converter and 3.55 gears. Couple of more pics here.

Stu

#62 Heads are 400 big car 375 horse "premium fuel". So the heads are from a full size with the upgrade 400. There really isn't much difference between them and any other D port head with big valves like 12,13,16. They have the 2.11 and 1.77 big valves and are (from memory here) screw in studs. I re-read but I didnt see anywhere what you found for a block casting number (way down behind he pass side head) or a 2 letter code (on the front of the block, pass side, just beloe the deck), 70 gto standard motor, auto trans is YS for example. To ID the block you need this 2 letter code, and the casting date, (below the distributor beside the hole), or, the casting #

Does it say 400 on it above and behind the fuel pump? Best seen from below the car looking up.

Everything matches a 1969 350 horse auto trans GTO motor (intake, you have 9794284, should be 9794234). That's a good motor. The differences from RA 3 specs are cam, exhaust manifolds and the fresh air package. Frankly, the fresh air doesn't do that much unless you're doing 100 mph and even then....but it sure looks cool. It can also help the tune, colder air is better and can help control ping in a high compression engine even if it doesn't add a lot of power in street driving. The "Ram Air" D port exhaust manifolds are as good as shorty headers without the hassles and are a big improvement, especially if you upgrade the cam.

I like working on Pontiac motors and getting them to put out big power. There are way more qualified guys here to talk about tinwork. Try a thread in one of the body forums, I'm sure somebody will help you out.

My car is not a judge. When I got it the motor was gone and the spoiler was there. The hood tach and formula steering wheel are original to the car. I added a trunk light and will be putting in a tilt column this winter. Car was originally Black/Black over Sandlewood but I hated the interior so I changed it.