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Post Info TOPIC: need to decode this engine, in 69 GTO , but not original


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RE: need to decode this engine, in 69 GTO , but not original


HAPPY BIRTHDAY



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Thanks., nice of you to notice.



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Ray White, Toronto ON

1973 LeMans 454 "Astro-Jet"

Built March 9, 1973 - Oshawa ON

1993 Corvette Convertible LT 1

Built January 10, 1993 - Bowling Green Kentucky 

 




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PMD-242 wrote:

SO DOES THAT MEAN THAT THE CARB I HAVE NOW IS OFF A 69 GTO , OR IS IT SOMETHING ELSE .THANKS AGAIN


 The number 48878 is incomplete/incorrect. A quadrajet will start with 702, 704, 1705 then have a year code single digit, followed by three digits.

 



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Ray White, Toronto ON

1973 LeMans 454 "Astro-Jet"

Built March 9, 1973 - Oshawa ON

1993 Corvette Convertible LT 1

Built January 10, 1993 - Bowling Green Kentucky 

 




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PMD-242 wrote:

THANKS FOR REPLY, LOVE YOUR CAR , CANT WAIT TILL MINE LOOKS THAT GOOD, GOT QUESTION WOULD YOU HAPPEN TO KNOW HOW MANY CARS WHERE MADE LIKE MINE, SILVER  WITH BLACK VINAL TOP AND BLACK INTERIOR, ITS NOT A JUDGE, OR DO YOU KNOW WHERE I COULD FIND OUT, IS YOUR GTO A JUDGE, MY CAR HAS  A YE 400 9790071 BLOCK 1969, IT IS DATE STAMPED MARCH 1969,# 62 HEADS , TURBO 400 TRANS, 355 REAR END,  SOME PEOPLE ON HERE SAY IT IS NOT ORIGINAL ENGINE , MADE TO EARLY FOR 1970,  ON DOOR IT SAYS 11/69,  WHAT DO YOU THINK ,IT DOES MAKE ME SAD  ,BUT AT SAME TIME I DONT THINK IT COULD HAVE BEEN REPLACIED WITH A BETTER MOTOR  BESIDES THE RAM AIRS, SO THAT OK.  WHAT DO YOU HAVE FOR MOTOR ETC , THANKS FOR VAN ISLAND


 Option by option breakdowns are not available. Exterior colours from Eric White's book are here. I don't think your motor is original; Mine is 08B, made August 69. Castings are June July on the 068 intake and 64 heads that I still have. Shortblock is not oriinal to the car. Don't worry if your motor is non-original. Unless you're building a points judged trailer queen who cares? If you are going to drive this thing build a hot motor (you have an excellent foundation in a 69 400 block) and have fun. Your block is probably drilled for 4 bolts but fitted with 2 bolt caps. Unless you are going for REALLY big power don't worry about the 2 bolt 4 bolt thing, it's much less important than it is when building a Chevy. I have 2 bolt caps on mine and I'm a little over 500. Good rods are the most important upgrade if you're building power. Stock rods are fine for stock power and RPM limits.

Mine is a 1972 455+.034", 0 deck, Wiseco forged pistons, Eagle rods, 60919 (Ram Air 4) cam, Rhoads lifters, Edelbrock round port heads, 1.65 Scorpion rockers, RPM intake, Custom Qjet by Cliff, Doug's 1 7/8" headers, THM 200 4R, 10" Continental "Jim Hand special" converter and 3.55 gears. Couple of more pics here.

 

Stu



-- Edited by Evil Stu on Thursday 29th of November 2012 08:53:00 AM

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THANKS FOR INFO  EVIL STU, SO DO U THINK MY MOTOR IS A REAL GTO MOTOR OR COULD IT BE SOMETHING ELSE, I DONT THINK IT IS MUCH DIFFERENT THAN A RAM AIR 3 MINUS RAM AIR SYSTEM, MANIFOLDS, CAM, IF I ADD THAT STUFF , WHAT DO YOU THINK. ALL ENGINE CODES ARE WRITTEN IN OTHER POSTS , BUT I THINK YOU READ THEM, THANKS AGAIN, LOVE YOUR MACHINE,



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#62 Heads are 400 big car 375 horse "premium fuel". So the heads are from a full size with the upgrade 400. There really isn't much difference between them and any other D port head with big valves like 12,13,16. They have the 2.11 and 1.77 big valves and are (from memory here) screw in studs. I re-read but I didnt see anywhere what you found for a block casting number (way down behind he pass side head) or a 2 letter code (on the front of the block, pass side, just beloe the deck), 70 gto standard motor, auto trans is YS for example. To ID the block you need this 2 letter code, and the casting date, (below the distributor beside the hole), or, the casting #

 

Does it say 400 on it above and behind the fuel pump? Best seen from below the car looking up.



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THIS IS WHAT I CAN TELL YOU, BLOCK CAST # 9790071,YS,   # BY DIST OR DATE CODE C259, WHICH MEANS MARCH 25 ,1969. HEADS # 62   DATE CODE C259 + C269, MARCH 25 + 26 ,1969, 72cc.  INTAKE # 9794284, D019 MEANS ARRIL 1 1969.  L-67, 350HP, HAS 3 FROST PLUGS ,  2 MOTOR MOUNT HOLES ,  I GOT MY CAR FOR A 300$ DIRT BIKE + 200$ THEN SOLD THE RIMS FOR 100$ TOTAL 400$ IN 1987, MOTOR HAD 2000 MILES HAVE NOT DONE MUCH TO IT AND STILL RUNS GOOD  , GOT NEW CARB,FENDERS, BUSHINGS, SPRINGS ,ETC, .  THANKS FOR YOUR HELP,  DO YOU GOT ANY BODY WORK TIPS  LIKE DOING TRUNCK PATCH, QUARTER PANELS, DOORS , NEED TO NOW WHERE I SHOULD START FIRST.   IS YOUR CAR A JUDGE,  I JUST BOUGHT A SPOILER FOR 50$ HAD HEAT DAMAGE BUT CAN BE FIXED , TOOK ME 25 YEARS TO FIND ONE.



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Everything matches a 1969 350 horse auto trans GTO motor (intake, you have 9794284, should be 9794234). That's a good motor. The differences from RA 3 specs are cam, exhaust manifolds and the fresh air package. Frankly, the fresh air doesn't do that much unless you're doing 100 mph and even then....but it sure looks cool. It can also help the tune, colder air is better and can help control ping in a high compression engine even if it doesn't add a lot of power in street driving. The "Ram Air" D port exhaust manifolds are as good as shorty headers without the hassles and are a big improvement, especially if you upgrade the cam.

 

I like working on Pontiac motors and getting them to put out big power. There are way more qualified guys here to talk about tinwork. Try a thread in one of the body forums, I'm sure somebody will help you out.

 

My car is not a judge. When I got it the motor was gone and the spoiler was there. The hood tach and formula steering wheel are original to the car. I added a trunk light and will be putting in a tilt column this winter. Car was originally Black/Black over Sandlewood but I hated the interior so I changed it. 



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PMD-242 wrote:

THANKS FOR REPLY,  I JUST BOUGHT AN REPLACEMENT Q JET, FOR 317$ PLUS OLD CARB ,GOOD PRICE WITH OUT OLD CARB IT WOULD HAVE BEEN OVER 700$ , THEY ARE HARD TO FIND ,  COULD NOT EVEN FIND ONE FOR A 1970 ENGINE, THEN I FIGURED OUT I HAD A 69,AND WAS ABLE TO FIND REBUILD FROM AUTOLINE,   IM USEING STOCK MANIFOLD , MAY GO ALUMINUM ONE DAY BUT I DO WANT TO KEEP Q JET, AS FOR GAS I USE 94 OCT,CHEVRON , PLUS LEAD SUPTISTUTE. SEEMS TO LOVE IT. I JUST GOT NEW FENDERS ,MOUNTS BUSHINGS ,CARB, CARPET,GAS TANK, AND MANY STILL NEEDED, CANT WHAT TILL SPRING , HAS BEEN OFF ROAD SINCE 1995,  GLAD I KEEP HER,  CAN YOU GIVE ME ADVICE ON REPLACING QUARTER PANELS, TRUNK PATHES, LIKE WHAT WOULD YOU DO FIRST,  CHEERS


 If you need any information on replacing quarters, rust repair or paint...let me know, I'll try and help.

 

Ray



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Thanks, i dont know much about body work , but im learning from utube etc, on ways to do it , my car needs trunck patch, both rear quarters, outer wheel wells probley not sure on those parts yet,  im am not sure on how big the quarters will need to be , dont think i need roof line ,  if i post some pics would you give some advice,  what would you do first trunk path or quarters, what is best way to get read of rust in trunk area, do you know how much per hour body shops would charge , i want to do as much as i can on my own,  i just need advise  thanks



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