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Post Info TOPIC: I Bet This Is A Part That Gets Over-looked on a lot of X-frame Cars


A Poncho Legend!

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I Bet This Is A Part That Gets Over-looked on a lot of X-frame Cars


I took the 2 piece drive shaft out of my spare frame today.

Look at the shape the carrier bearing is in. It's one of those parts that I bet goes unnoticed and unreplaced. Imagine how many nice cars are driving around with their original, crappy bearings in them. This one is toast.

I'm going with a urethane (not rubber) bearing when I replace it, for about the same price as '65 Beaumont clear signal lenses.biggrin

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-- Edited by Pontiacanada on Sunday 31st of March 2013 04:36:16 PM

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Prince Edward Island

'64 Parisienne CS "barn find" - last on the road in '86 ... Owner Protection Plan booklet, original paint, original near-mint aqua interior, original aqua GM floor mats, original 283, factory posi, and original rust.



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Just WAIT till you try & take it apart!!! I remember doing those a long time ago & 67 to 72 Chevy/ GMC P/ups have that too!!!!

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Hopefully the one in my actual car isn't as bad. I'll "practice" on this one with a BFH. biggrin



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Prince Edward Island

'64 Parisienne CS "barn find" - last on the road in '86 ... Owner Protection Plan booklet, original paint, original near-mint aqua interior, original aqua GM floor mats, original 283, factory posi, and original rust.



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i wonder if a one peice shaft like on my truck would work, its a x frame too



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you'll know if the one in your car is bad the first time you try to accelerate hard from a dead stop. you'll get an awful bang and vibration as you try to get 2 tons moving and the drive shaft smacks up and down..

I change the support about every 10'000 miles, bearing isn't the problem, it's the crappy housing that is supposed to hold it.



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later...rog

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I'm a collector...not a builder!!Located in sunny central Saskatchewan at the lakehead!


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rabbit64cs wrote:

you'll know if the one in your car is bad the first time you try to accelerate hard from a dead stop. you'll get an awful bang and vibration as you try to get 2 tons moving and the drive shaft smacks up and down..

I change the support about every 10'000 miles, bearing isn't the problem, it's the crappy housing that is supposed to hold it.


  This happened a few years ago in my 60 wagon,  got one thru NAPA and, Yeah, It was fun to put it......



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1960 Pontiac Strato Chief Safari
1960 Laurentian Safari 
1960 Laurentian 4door(scrapped)
2001 Grand Am Traded on a '96 Suburban 2WD
2002 Hyundai Accent(SOLD)
1968 Grand Parisienne Scrapped and SOLD

 

Calgary, Alberta, but raised in Peterborough



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Nailhead wrote:
65wagon wrote:

i wonder if a one peice shaft like on my truck would work, its a x frame too


 ........No room for a one piece in a 58-64 tunnel  to travell up & down. 


 I have a 10 bolt 8.20 , the pinion is higher allowing me to use a 1 piece drive shaft. I have torn up a couple of hangers with the 4200 stall.   You can order 1 billet hanger bearing for these now.



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pontiax- (canadian pontiac X frame)1964 Parisienne 2dr. Hardtop ,lagoon aqua metallic (Q) ,421 cid Dart Industries block and heads. 550 hp. 575 ft lb  of torque.

 

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Yep.  I remember,...

It was a beast to take apart.  I would do it differently the second time around....

Instead of spending the better part of a day wailing away at it while clamped in a vise,..., 

Just take out the complete drive shaft assembly intact,.. drop it off at a garage with  the new hanger and u-joints,.. go for a beer., pick up the assembly when they're done.  $75.00 later,.. a lot of aggravation saved.   No longer being 18,.. I've got nothing to prove and happy to have a garage to the dirty jobs



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I bought one of these puppies to replace it with. Should last long(er). Almost looks too pretty to hide in the tunnel!biggrin

001.JPG



-- Edited by Pontiacanada on Sunday 4th of August 2013 06:41:53 AM

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Prince Edward Island

'64 Parisienne CS "barn find" - last on the road in '86 ... Owner Protection Plan booklet, original paint, original near-mint aqua interior, original aqua GM floor mats, original 283, factory posi, and original rust.



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rabbit64cs wrote:

you'll know if the one in your car is bad the first time you try to accelerate hard from a dead stop. you'll get an awful bang and vibration as you try to get 2 tons moving and the drive shaft smacks up and down..

I change the support about every 10'000 miles, bearing isn't the problem, it's the crappy housing that is supposed to hold it.


 yes ive ripped a few of those suckers in half in my 65 p/u haha



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what 's the cost on that bad boy... only have to ever buy one .. I'm sure !



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later...rog

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A friend did a complete rebuild of a '64 Impala two years ago. Beautiful car. This spring he took it out and it's making this rattling noise when he accelerates. It sounded like the baffles in the mufflers had rattled loose.

Nope. Steady bearing hiding inside that X frame.

It's been a LONG time since I took one apart. Can't even remember what all is involved. I do remember having to do it on a half-ton and a buddy's impala way back when. I do remember being glad I had an A-body and no steady bearing.

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rabbit64cs wrote:

what 's the cost on that bad boy... only have to ever buy one .. I'm sure !


 $125.00. Saves on both Tylenol and buying future bearings.



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Prince Edward Island

'64 Parisienne CS "barn find" - last on the road in '86 ... Owner Protection Plan booklet, original paint, original near-mint aqua interior, original aqua GM floor mats, original 283, factory posi, and original rust.



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nice part may have to put in a window in floor to see it its soo nice

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great, another thing I ABSOLUTELY need!!!!!

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timbuk wrote:

nice part may have to put in a window in floor to see it its soo nice


 biggrin

Ya, I'll cut a hole right through the x-member! doh.gif



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Prince Edward Island

'64 Parisienne CS "barn find" - last on the road in '86 ... Owner Protection Plan booklet, original paint, original near-mint aqua interior, original aqua GM floor mats, original 283, factory posi, and original rust.



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Pontiacanada wrote:
timbuk wrote:

nice part may have to put in a window in floor to see it its soo nice


 biggrin

Ya, I'll cut a hole right through the x-member! doh.gif


 then it would be a O- membereyepopping.gif



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I might need one too since I'm sure mine is original. If I may ask our colleague what brand is that bearing and where did he get it?

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Pontiacanada wrote:
rabbit64cs wrote:

what 's the cost on that bad boy... only have to ever buy one .. I'm sure !


 $125.00. Saves on both Tylenol and buying future bearings.


 Is that from Inland Empire?     Where did you get that, do you have a link,

shipping info etc

 



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bjburnout wrote:
Pontiacanada wrote:
rabbit64cs wrote:

what 's the cost on that bad boy... only have to ever buy one .. I'm sure !


 $125.00. Saves on both Tylenol and buying future bearings.


 Is that from Inland Empire?     Where did you get that, do you have a link,

shipping info etc

 


Same one as Inland's, but got mine here:  http://www.performanceonline.com/Billet-Aluminum-Driveshaft-Carrier-Bearing-PolyUrethane-Insolator/

As for shipping, I bought it with another item (Prothane transmission mount), so I don't know how much the shipping of just the bearing would cost, but the shipping went smoothly.



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Prince Edward Island

'64 Parisienne CS "barn find" - last on the road in '86 ... Owner Protection Plan booklet, original paint, original near-mint aqua interior, original aqua GM floor mats, original 283, factory posi, and original rust.



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Carrier Bearing With PolyUrethane Insolator

1958-64 Chevy Impala and 1963-72 Chevy Truck Billet Aluminum Driveshaft Carrier Bearing With PolyUrethane Insolator

 

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SKU
BCB-00
Weight
4.00 lbs
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$125.99
 
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These Billet Aluminum Driveshaft Carrier Bearings with polyurethane insolators are available for 1963-72 Chevy-GMC trucks and 1958-64 Chevy Impala. Built to precise specifications, these high tech carrier bearings tremendously outlast the OE rubber types. Built from T6061 aluminum with low deflection poly urethane insolator and precision bearing, these items can handle much more horse power and torque than the cheap factory replacements. No more yearly replacements required. As we like to say here at POL,"One and Done!"

Note: Works with 3/4 ton GM trucks using the factory style drive shaft.



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I remember my 60 Bel Air 2 door hardtop and Impala 2 door hardtop both had the same issues. One bolt broke off. Can't remember how I fixed it. Probably just grabbed the drive shaft assembly out of the 61 Impala parts car. I have a feeling I changed one of the bearings as well, but if so, I must have blocked it from my memory !! I seem to remember it not being a happy job.

Actually, that drive shaft looks kind of depressing, too :)  Wanting for some cleaning and painting. I've never painted one, but it's nice to hand out advice !!



-- Edited by HonestDave on Thursday 6th of February 2014 07:46:01 AM

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The drive shaft (with the toasted bearing still on it) is still in the same condition, just stored away. It's out of a parts car that I parted out.

The X frame off of that same parts car is cleaned, repaireded and will be painted with POR this summer.



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Prince Edward Island

'64 Parisienne CS "barn find" - last on the road in '86 ... Owner Protection Plan booklet, original paint, original near-mint aqua interior, original aqua GM floor mats, original 283, factory posi, and original rust.



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THE LAST ONE I PUT IN , I FILLED WITH URETHANE. 

SOLID LIKE HARD RUBBER AND NO MOVMENT.

WORKED GOOD.



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here's what I did to the new 1 from CARQUEST(premium 1 -$45.00 )-welded in re-enforcement on the sides-------the last 1 bought had poor spot-welds & flopped over to the side !

a horrible engineering design by GM......a slip-joint would have saved a lot of headachesstratford spectacular 2013 two 009.JPG



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