ok guys 454 bb what oil recommendations please apparantly need zinc any one using joe gibb HR-1 Conventional 15W-50 recommended for muscle cars

427carl wrote:

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Now  you opened the flood gates !!  

Watch out   Get behind the car!    

watch out  

you will hear all of the

 "I use" this and "I use" that    

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all depends what spring pressure you have, big blocks including 09s have a heavy valvetrain compared to small blocks, spring pressures are higher flat tappet will live a shorter life, i still run 10 30 synthetics with a heavy dose of zinc addative, next cams im going to rollers.

CDN2PLS2 wrote:

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Cod Liver Oil.

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  Driving the 68 this year? Looks like a real show Queen.

427carl wrote:

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I go to Jiffy Lube   got a buddy there  

 He gives me the old stuff for all my cars    

I add STP  (got several cases from 1969)  

works great....

I get Zinc tablets on sale at Walmart... and B12

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 Urine works good!!!!

427carl wrote:

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In the Maritimes   its called  Irving    lol

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 And I can't say works for gear oil LOL

Bill shuba wrote:

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I have been doing alot of thinking lol on the oil I should use while breaking in my cam and motor,,read many of the ways you all here have done it ect..What is wrong with useing a good synthetic and a bottle of zinc additive ? my way of thinking is less wear and friction yet added zinc..am I thinking right ? or out to lunch..missing something? Thanks guys

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 Syn oil is no way to break in your cam.............. IT WOULD BE DEADLY. Use Joe Gibb break in oil or other "Break in oils". I used Joe Gibb when i breaked in my solid lifter cam and lifters in my 57 Pontiac 261 six. The break in is very very very very very very critical or your cam will prematurely fail and the loss of lots and lots of bucks. Follow the procedure of what rpm to set your break in and for how long a period of time. After the break in drain the oil and put fresh stuff in with zinc. This is very critical or you will be doing this all over again with a new cam. Syn oil is just way to slippery to break in a new camshaft and lifters. The zinc additive comes after the break in and that is also critical because flat tappet cams and lifters hate modern oils. Take short cuts in any way and you will pay my friend............... how do i know, well lets just say i learned the hard way. Cheers. 

Bill shuba wrote:

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long stroke my cam and lifters are hydralic wouldn't that be different ? or is syn just to slippery to spin the lifters push rods as they should ??

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 Both solid cams and hydro cams have to be properly broken in. Syn oil is never recommended for breaking in a cam or even a motor for that matter. With an engine rebuild syn oil will not allow the rings to properly break in.  Always replace the cam and lifters as a set and never reuse old lifters because they will grind into the new camshaft lobes. A break in oil is cheap insurance but it is just that a break in oil and not to left in the crankcase. You have to run the engine at a higher rpm for about 20 - 30 minutes, set the idle speed higher to do this and be with the car in case some expensive noises start to happen. Drain the break in oil after the break in an replace with a quality oil and add ZINC if it is a flat tappet cam. Roller cams and lifters do not require ZINC. Use the cam shaft supplier for the proper rpm setting and break in time for when you actually break in the cam. Not doing any of this means that you will be replacing your cam real soon again. Cheers.