Boy they sure are nice looking units!

Carl Stevenson wrote:

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Tin Man Auto wrote:

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66 Grande guy wrote:

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One note is that your tach may or may not work. I just recently had mine rebuilt so i can direct you there if necessary.

 

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 To Ty and Ken, we tested all the tachs and of the 7 we have, 5 are totally functional and 2 are not but we haven't opened them up yet to see what the issue is. Cheers Dave (this is a functional '65 pictured)

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Do the needles wiggle when you "twist" them?

Sometimes they will stick around 3,000 rpm as well. Common issue with them. Make sure they don't just work at idle but all the way up. The stick tach syndrome on them is not a cheap fix. There's a design flaw inside them.

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 Thats what the tech told me who fixed mine.  I'm not endorsing his work yet as i really haven't had the car on the road yet but there is an option out there  especially if you are planning to run HEI or a Pertronix instead of points.

Not sure about the Catalina, I would think they would be the same BUT the Impala is the same so thats the way I would order it. Have you had a chance to install the Tach yet, if so would like to see pix of that. Cheers Dave 

Thanks, hopefully will have it finished by mid-week.

Nice, haven't had a chance to install my tach yet.  Long draught out process with my engine, I have engine trans etc installed just finishing up the smaller item's.  I replaced the quadrajet with a SMI quad and the intake with a "blashphemy" Edelbrock performer, and the points with a pertronix.  All of the original part's are retained I am sending out the orignal carb to SMI to get redone and also rebuilding the original distributor and have had the cast intake hot tanked and ready for paint etc.

I have kept everything besides the brake shoes that has been replaced on the car including factory bolts etc.  If I decide to replace the Edelbrock it will be a basic plug and play.  I just want to have a stock looking Custom Sport that is a Bad MFR while still looking stock.

Went through the Turbo 400 and installed a mild Transpak kit/ adjustable modulator, had the original torque converter stall upped a wee bit, left the factory 2.73 posi gears stock.  Engine Torque plate bored 30 over decked etc. 

balanced installed ceramic coated 10.25 -1 forged pistons, Torrington bearing double roller chain, 270 magnum comp hydraulic roller cam with roller tipped rocker's .  The heads have new larger stainless steel valves along with

hardened valve seats and multi angle valve job.

For the exhaust  Borla stainless steel XL 2.5 inch mufflers with a X pipe and tailpipes to be installed from the "Factory" manifolds.  Rolling stock will be 17 inch Rally ll wheels from Year with Hankook Ventus V12 Evo (K110)-245/45ZR17 tires.

Have the original tiger paws and hubcaps but just want to have something that looks a little more aggressive/factory and more importantly safe.  The only modification I am doing to the suspension is installing a rear sway bar from Alston Chassis,

it's called the G'bar and actually retains a factory looks and feel, reason for the rear sway bar is the 17's and the rear fender skirts don't have a lot of clearance with the center "latch" and I want to prevent the opportunity of body lean to exacerbate the situation.

Just in the process of finishing up some of the small detail's.  Installing mechanical oil pressure and coolant temp gauges in the glovey, not mounting them permanent I had a small metal bracket/box made so they can just sit in

there without modifying the glovy.  Having a heck of a time running the coolant temp sensor, only 5 feet long and I am not punching a hole to shorten the distance from glovy to manifold.  Think I am going to go along the  radio ant

route and see if this will work.  Also have to hide the original wiring for dist/coil and run separate 12v for the new ignition and choke coil.  I rigged up a dual relay system that will utilize a fused 10 gauge wire from the

starter into the cabin where the relay system will be hidden then back out to the components.  Have to also hide my electronic kickdown wires temporarily until I get my original carb back

from SMI because the newer carb doesn't have the proper "kick" on the linkage for the electronic kick down mounted on the carb.  The wiring harness is cherry and original so I am not

going to cut one wire, just adding sub harness's and trying to hide the existing wires that no longer will be used.

Hopefully will have it up and running by the end of the week.

I'm not a big fan of the big tire look on classics either but the total diameter is actually almost the same as the original rim tire combo, actually marginally smaller.  So the stance and  tire clearance should be the same besides the width issue.

I use the tern should:)  I actually really hope there isn't any issues, my budget could not handle a wheel/tire redo.  

Ran into a bit of a problem today.  Went to put the Alternator bracket on and it is appx. 1/2 and inch out from the upper mount boss on the "Edelbrock" performer 2161 intake.. Not enough room to grind the bracket to fit nor do I want to either, and the boss run's out of meat so I can't fill and drill.  Phoned Edelbrock customer service and they said they have a known issue with the 2161 manifolds for this specific problem on this "run" of manifolds.  The explained that in 2 months appx. I can trade it back in for a new "improved" manifold.    So I am looking for a older Performer intake for a BBC if anyone is in the Regina area.   Thanks,  Ty

427carl wrote:

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no fuses on that, but if you look in your service manual, they run twelve volts off the starter on start up to the ignition then nock it down for points

Got the engine running and went to put on the air cleaner and.... doesn't fit.  I purchased a SMI stage 2 quadrajet and it has a electric choke.  The air cleaner is the skinny single snorkel style single but made for non electric choke so now the base hit's on the side of the carb.  I am not going to modify this air cleaner because I will be sending my original carb to SMI to get tweaked, but need to run a air cleaner for now.  Don't want a chrome whizbang style, what else would fit and look similar but clear the electric choke?   Thanks,  Ty