so since putting the 327 in my car, it's run hot. So to fix the problem I changed to stock 4 blade fan to a six blade flex fan and put in a dual core aluminum rad..still ran hot. So, installed a pusher fan and temp sensor..worked for a bit, but now still runs hot.. Talked to JC tonight and he's having the same issue on his 68. Only difference is that he has a fan shroud and his temp sensor is in the rad and mine is in the intake.
Now, I'm thinking that I have an air bubble in the heater core and I'll tell you why. I turned the heat on to try and get the temp down and it actually spiked higher. When I turned it off it slowly came back down..still high (210F from 230) though..
So, my question is this..am I on the right track here? My other thought is that the sensor is suffering from heat soak as it is pretty close to the upper rad hose...and it's overwhelmed...but I'm really just guessing at this point...
-- Edited by Blackheart4355 on Saturday 3rd of August 2013 01:05:22 AM
my 327 runs at 180' on the highway, flex fan and stock fan culvert.. and a stock 2 core cross flow from a 69 impala.. BUT when I putt through a parking lot at a car show ,, it will climb to 220' . I bring the revs up for a couple of minutes, drops to ~210' then I shut it down.
I did install a flow cooler style plate on the back of my water pump impeller. Supposed to stop the pump from cavitating? have a look on teh net.
no issues otherwise.
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later...rog
AADD supporting member !!
I'm a collector...not a builder!!Located in sunny central Saskatchewan at the lakehead!
Hmmm, interesting. Assuming, engine has proper amount of oil in the crank case. Check the trans oil, is it the correct level, smell burnt? Running a higher stall convertor? Trans lines to rad ok? Have you changed anything else with the engine? Timing makes a big difference on engine temp, carb, running lean will also bring up temps. Is the engine sounding/feeling strange when it's running hotter? Could be temp sensor out of whack. Good luck.
Engine oil is bang on and run royal purple synthetic, trans is good too, has tranny cooler, stock stall converter. Timing is 10 degrees advance. Temp sensor is only a couple of weeks old but could just be a bad one..going to get a new one and try it...
Have you checked to see if your rad cap is holding the stated pressure? This is one of the most common (overlooked) issues with overheating has taken out many motor's especially tow vehicles. If it's not new I would replace it and see if it makes a difference, cheap insurance. Ty
A bit of an update, we checked the wiring and replaced 1 connector and then rechecked all the fuses including the one in the harness.. all good. So after much discussion we believe it is the thermal switch. So I will look into getting one that goes in the rad vice in the intake. Hopefully this will fix the issue.
You mentioned 10Deg on timing but have you checked to see if Vac. Adv. is working????? That was my overheating problem when I was down south & it ran at 235F on Hwy.!!!! I changed the w/pump, T'stat, even took the rad back to Rad rebuilder, who said it would cool a BBC!!! I put a pc. of tubing on Vac. adv. & tried to pull vac. on it, was sucking thru a straw, no resistance at all, Now runs just above 160 on Hwy.
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Some times I wake up GRUMPY, but today I let her sleep in !!!!!!!!BLACKSTOCK Ont.
There is a temp switch you can buy for electric fans where the sensor slides in between the fins of the rad by the upper rad hose..it senses the temp of the coolant coming into the rad, running the fan until that temp is cool enough to warrant shutting the fan off. Very slick piece, and works very well.... on my car at least!
I;m still confused if you are reading the engin temperature before the thermostate housing(correct way), or reading the temperature of the coolant passing in the radiator?
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Beaumontguru
MY BEAUMONT HAS 4 STUDDED TIRES AND 2 BLOCKHEATERS......AND LOTS OF OIL UNDERNEATH. The other one has a longer roof.
