The car in question is my '61 StratoChief (upgraded with a '72 vintage chevy 350 with HEI but the original generator {not alternator}) that's been in hibernation the last 7 years and so the mice did a nice number on the wiring. They took care of the horn wires, the water temp idiot light wires, the block heater cord, the ignition wires, the starter wires, the generator wires and a few other odds and ends. Fortunately the mice chewed only the insulation but not the wires themselves....with one exception: the wires that go to the starter.
So my problem is this: I was able to rewire the starter wires and solder them back into the main harness except for one of the small terminals on the solenoid. That terminal has 2 wires going to it, one of which goes to the wiring harness and the other (and this is the wire in question) goes to the terminal on the distributor cap marked BATT. Does that sound right to you guys?
Please help as I plan to do the oil pump priming tomorrow and see if she'll come to life and really want to avoid any electrical gremlins (i.e. short circuit and core meltdown :))
-- Edited by meowy84 on Monday 16th of September 2013 09:18:28 PM
IF YOU HAVE A POINTS TYPE DISTRIBUTER, THE WIRING WILL BE: TO ENERGIZE THE STARTER SOLENOID A LARGE, ABOUT A NUMBER 12 OR 14 GAUGE WIRE WILL GO TO THE INNER MOST SMALL TERMINAL ON THE STARTER SOLENOID. IT MAY BE PURPLE IN COLOR. THE SECOND SMALLER WIRE SHOULD GO TO THE OUTER SOLENOID TERMINAL AND GO FROM THERE TO THE + TERMINAL ON THE IGNITION COIL. THIS IS FOR BY PASSING THE RESISTOR WIRE FROM THE STARTER IGNITION SWITCH. THE LARGER BATTERY CABLE WILL GO TO THE UPPER TERMINAL ON THE STARTER SOLENOID. THERE MAY BE AN ADDITIONAL BATTERY FEED WIRE TAKE OFF FROM THE STARTER BATTERY TERMINAL POST ON THE SOLENOID FOR OTHER ACCESSORIES. THIS TYPE OF SYSTEM (POINTS TYPE) WAS TYPICALLY DONE AWAY WITH IN 1975 WHEN THE HEI DISTRIBUTOR CAME OUT.
and as Carl mentioned, when re wiring for a HEI, make sure to run at least a #14 wire . HEI like clean power, I ran mine right back to the igniton switch. Once you've re wired it, make sure with a test light that you have 12 v in the crank postion , and the run position. The 12 volt at crank is what the wire from the starter did, so it could stay connected if your not seeing the 12 volts to your HEI in the RUN.. means you'd have 2 wires at the HEI. -- Edited by rabbit64cs on Tuesday 17th of September 2013 10:38:00 AM
-- Edited by rabbit64cs on Tuesday 17th of September 2013 10:40:24 AM
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later...rog
AADD supporting member !!
I'm a collector...not a builder!!Located in sunny central Saskatchewan at the lakehead!
Resister wire has to be gone for a HEI cause it needs a constant 12 v to run properly. Run a connection from your fuse box ignition terminal back to the BATT on the cap. Same area where the old resister wire was on your fuse box. I even hooked up my factory tach. to the HEI tach. connection. All is good.
Brian
Mystery solved: the 2nd wire does go to the BATT terminal on the HEI. Finally finished with the under-hood wiring and got the car fired up today for the first time in 7 years and it sounds great. Nothing like the sound on an unmuffled small block to please the neighbors around supper time.
-- Edited by meowy84 on Monday 23rd of September 2013 10:39:27 PM
-- Edited by meowy84 on Monday 23rd of September 2013 10:40:32 PM
Mystery solved: the 2nd wire does go to the BATT terminal on the HEI. Finally finished with the under-hood wiring and got the car fired up today for the first time in 7 years and it sounds great. Nothing like the sound on an unmuffled small block to please the neighbors around supper time.
Good stuff!
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Prince Edward Island
'64 Parisienne CS "barn find" - last on the road in '86 ... Owner Protection Plan booklet, original paint, original near-mint aqua interior, original aqua GM floor mats, original 283, factory posi, and original rust.
