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Post Info TOPIC: CS Won't Start When Hot


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RE: CS Won't Start When Hot


So, the wires getting a full 12 volts, and I've managed to check out the solenoid. Looks new enough to me to not wanna replace it.

I'm thinking that I will go the heat shield route, and if that fails to stop the problem, I may go for the Ford re-routing. I'm afraid to tinker with that valve yet...

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And no, its all stock under the hood aside from the carb, so no HEDDERS



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tron64 wrote:

 I'm afraid to tinker with that valve yet...


 No fear.....just take a look. It should be a lever with a counterweight on it, and a spring. When it's cold, move the lever up and down with your hand. It should move freely, and then spring closed again. If it's stuck, it's likely stuck closed. That gets really restrictive. If it moves freely, just see where it is when cold, and then make sure it's moved an inch or two when it's hot.

It's an adventure biggrin



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Richmond BC



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Haha alright I'll get dirty with it then, see how she moves

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If I get time later this morning, I'll post a couple pictures of the one I removed yesterday. You won't believe how restrictive these things are. I used to cut them out, wire them open, almost anything to keep them from closing. The one I just took off was seized, but the previous owner had wired it open. Even so, the flap inside had finally come unbonded from the pin, and was just flapping inside. They make a rattling noise. Drives people nuts trying to find it. I've had some like that as well. Nobody wants to check that valve because it's a b-tch to work on.
You almost want the shop guys to do it, because you need to loosen all six exhaust nuts to drop the Y pipe down. Then you have to work and whack the valve if it's bad, because the gaskets tend to seal it in place. It took me about ten minutes yesterday to get my valve off, and that was with the motor sitting on the ground with nothing in the way except the starter.
I need one for my other 62 Parisienne. I have a brand new one somewhere, but I might just cut the valve out of this old one and weld the pin holes on the sides shut. I need the valve housing for the stock Y pipe to fit back in my convert because I'm swapping over the whole exhaust from my parts car. The convert came without exhaust. It was someone's failed project.
It's really the only way to get decent flow for any length of time. All these valves seize up sooner or later. I've never had an old sixties 283 or 327 Pontiac that didn't have this problem. Except, of course, the lucky ones that break their bond on the pin. At least they free flow, it's just the rattling that is annoying.
Sorry about the long winded post. Think I'll go get my coffee now.

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Richmond BC



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Here's some pictures of the valve, one closed and one open. You can see why the passenger side of the motor (and the starter) heats up so much if the valve sticks shut.



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Richmond BC



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tron64 wrote:

So, the wires getting a full 12 volts, and I've managed to check out the solenoid. Looks new enough to me to not wanna replace it.

I'm thinking that I will go the heat shield route, and if that fails to stop the problem, I may go for the Ford re-routing. I'm afraid to tinker with that valve yet...


 Before you get carried away here.........I'd say your starter brushes are worn down and are hanging up in the brush holders when engine is hot....and not making contact with the commutator on a hot restart.

Brushes ARE available at your local parts store....(Niehoff)  and are inexpensive.

It's an easy/fun fix....and you can clean it up when you are in there.....

If your starter is an original Delco....DO NOT turn it in on a reman....get the original rebuilt/repaired....



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