I don't want to derail the other thread...not my style...
So I replaced the original generator on my 58 Buick with an alternator, bought as a kit with the proper(ish) lower bracket...installed like they said... car has a factory ampmeter gauge so the plug was not used...
When running alt is at 12.5 - 12.7 volts, and I just tried an old trick I learned this AM (thanks Carl S) to put a piece of metal on the back of the alternator and it doesn't stick...no magnetism (just the opposite of Carl and me)
Here are a couple of pics for illustration purposes..
This is the Ammeter when car is running:
This is the back of alternator (duhh):
This is the current set up:
This is the old generator cables plugged together as per instruction... red to white
When I originally did the modification the green cable was joined with the white one and nothing happened...asked the seller and he said to ground the green cable, which I did... did I short it?
Additional info: the Buisck starts with the gad pedal, so carb/starter/alt are combined...
Glad to see the alternator problem is fixed. When looking at your dashboard picture I remembered that they had a ribbon speedometer, now that was so cool.
Brian
To check alt stator and armature you can short with a screwdriver in "test whole" and see what your max voltage is.
UNLESS YOU HAVE A SELF ENERGIZED ALT. , HOW CAN IT WORK WITH OUT THE FIELD WIRE USED ?
Not an expert on this but I think this is how it works. On the old int reg alts the field gets voltage from 2 sources (diode trio and Ign) so once car is started the diode trio feeds the field. On the newer alts like my LS (1 wire) I think they are engaged by RPM of the alt.