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Post Info TOPIC: What's the best penetrant? Breaking a years old bond between aluminum & steel
bferguson


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What's the best penetrant? Breaking a years old bond between aluminum & steel
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I'm looking for suggestions on breaking loose an aluminum front suspension part that supports a rubber cone. The cone has a steel cup bonded to it which sits on the aluminum piece. It's had years of pounding from the suspension travel so it is really stuck! I need to preserve the aluminum part but the other doesn't matter. I think aluminum & steel have unique corrosion characteristics and heat is out because it will weaken the aluminum. I've read that a 50/50 mix of automatic trans fluid & acetone is effective. Has anyone tried this? The parts are currently soaking in diesel.

thanks in advance,

Brian



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Brian

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Bill shuba


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only thing I know is to heat it with a torch the metal part  not alum  and try to seperate it ,try that hope it works out for you !



-- Edited by Bill shuba on Saturday 2nd of March 2019 04:57:00 PM

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What are you working on? A Mini Cooper?


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bferguson


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not a Cooper Todd but it is a Mini, my daughter's '61 Morris Mini she brought over from England a few years ago



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Brian

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Ah! When you said a rubber cone I figured it had to be something like that. Those cars are a blast to drive!

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Pontiacanada


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50% acetone and 50% transmission fluid ... shake well together before applying (because they separate). I've used this mixture and it works well.



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66 Beau


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Let me know if you find something that works - Ive been trying to loosen an aluminum nut on an ACME thread shaft (part of a screw jack). Ive tried everything I can think of including heat. It wont budge. Im considering just melting the aluminum off, but they want something like $40 just for a new (steel) nut.

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cdnpont


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Drill, cut, grind and burn away the rubber. Soak it in the appropriate miracle oil, then mechanically shock, pry and curse the two sections apart.

 



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oldblue


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The best penetrant I've used bar non is PB Blaster. Trouble is it's really hard to find in Canada, or at least it was. Most part stores I talked to never even heard of it. I finally found it a few years back at the Campbell River Crappy Tire dtore. I don't know if they all carry it or if it was just that one store. I have done similar things to what you're attempting with it. If you can find some, I believe it would be worth a shot.

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did I do that?

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Canadian Poncho


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Princess Auto sells PB
www.princessauto.com/en/detail/pb-b-laster-penetrant/A-p8763625e

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otus


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My op...Pb Blaster is very good and so is tranny fluid with some type of solvent..any solvent that "carries" the tranny fluid will work.

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hawkeye5766


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Tried a ton of stuff...Moovit it seems to work best for me. Brother in law that owns a shop swears by it,,,used it,so do I!

www.princessauto.com/en/detail/moovit-hi-performance-penetrating-lubricant/A-p6420008e

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bferguson


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hawkeye5766 wrote:

Tried a ton of stuff...Moovit it seems to work best for me. Brother in law that owns a shop swears by it,,,used it,so do I!

www.princessauto.com/en/detail/moovit-hi-performance-penetrating-lubricant/A-p6420008e

 I found this on the H.A.M.B.

Recently an article was passed along to me from Machinist Workshop Magazine.
They tested some commercially available penetrating oils on a group of nuts & bolts they had scientifically rusted to a uniform degree in a salt water solution.

The fasteners were treated with a variety of commercially available penetrants and the measured torque required to loosen them was recorded.

The break out torque required for:
Nothing = 516 ft. lbs.
WD-40 = 238 ft. lbs.
PB Blaster = 214 ft. lbs.
Liquid Wrench = 127 ft. lbs.
Kano Kroil = 106 ft. lbs.
50/50 blend of ATF and Acetone = 50 ft. lbs.



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norontcan


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Very interesting table.
One thing I've heard and experienced is that products like WD40 will work while they are still wet. Leave them to dry a couple of days and any value has been lost. So keep them soaked long enough for the penetrant to soak its way in and take apart wet.



-- Edited by norontcan on Monday 4th of March 2019 12:08:44 PM

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DonSSDD


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Ive used the 50-50 acetone and tranny fluid mix and it works great. Like Darryl said, shake it before application.

One thing you can use with heat is a can of the pink Rust Chek, it doesnt burn up like say wd40 and you can spray it directly on heated parts without a big flame. Good for nut and bolt work.

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Lemans64


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Have been using Gibbs Brand Penetrating oil, works well. 

Good for bare metal protection as well. Use it on my bare metal hood hinges. one small spray a year and no rust

for over 4 years, since hinges were installed. 

https://www.amazon.com/Gibbs-Brand-Lubricant-2-12oz-cans/dp/B00AFJXIJQ

oOps that is a US site, so careful. It is expensive in Canada, I paid $22 a can. 



-- Edited by Lemans64 on Wednesday 6th of March 2019 09:28:37 AM

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cdnpont


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oldblue wrote:

The best penetrant I've used bar non is PB Blaster. Trouble is it's really hard to find in Canada, or at least it was. Most part stores I talked to never even heard of it. I finally found it a few years back at the Campbell River Crappy Tire dtore. I don't know if they all carry it or if it was just that one store. I have done similar things to what you're attempting with it. If you can find some, I believe it would be worth a shot.

 https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/pb-b-laster-penetrant/A-p8763625e



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mfleury


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I use fluid film it works all the time 



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jlysholm


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Tabasco or Frank's Red Hot sauce...works almost every time. (it's an old Navy Mechanic essential secret)

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hawkeye5766


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jlysholm wrote:

 Frank's Red Hot sauce...works almost every time. (it's an old Navy Mechanic essential secret)

 Guess it does work on everything!biggrin

 



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