Yes the Diesel ATF solution worked in my experience. 

dualquadpete wrote:

---

I'll second that!!! Have used ATF & diesel mix on a few engines to get them to free up. After giving cylinders a good shot I try and put a load on crank pulley by using a jack and socket & breaker bar & let it sit with torque applied to break it free.

---

Pete, how much time should you allow to let the secret potion do its job before applying a load to try and unstick the engine?  Do it immediately?

-- Edited by 68 Grande on Friday 24th of April 2020 11:21:58 AM

Ok.....drugs...have been administered.....

Not being very familiar with this engine....I'm kinda scratching my head...as to how I can roll it over....

Are there some threaded bolt holes in crank damper?

This one has an Iron glide.......and I don't recall seeing a cover...to expose ring gear...

That...was my first thought........I let my fingers....do the walking.....and they didn't find one...

Good call....on starter /ring gear access...

 

Generator and brackets were robbed....but engine was covered with hood....plugs came out nice   and no sign of water/rust....so hopefully it will break free..

I will let the brew "cook"...for 2 weeks......and give it a whirl..

 

Had a stuck Pontiac 400...years ago......Soaked the rings   let it sit.....

Couldn't move it with a breaker bar on the crank.....

 

I installed a battery.....hit the key....and the starter did the job......

 

It actually ran pretty good.....after I fussed with it...

 

 

MoboMac, keep us posted, I want to know if you succeed!

TFC

Its nice that this thread has been revived. On another forum that I frequent a poster was trying to free up a six cylinder in a military truck. He removed the cylinder head and found one cylinder that was very rusty. To get the piston to move he but some diesel fuel in the cylinder along with a rag soaked with diesel fuel. He lit the rag and let it burn until it burned up the diesel in the cylinder. With the resulting heat buildup he was able to move the piston with a hammer and block of wood. This allowed the engine to be disassembled without any additional damage. Although it needed a sleeve, the engine was able to be saved.

Paul

Just a question on earlier points in this thread.
After you apply the diesel/ATF potion when putting a load on to turn the engine do you have to apply the load so that if it breaks free it will turn in the direction of normal rotation? Or does it matter?

Just a quick update here....

I can't believe it's been 14 months since I posted.....

Got going in many other directions...and hadn't given this project much thought..

Will try and get back on it and update asap..

Ok......Thanks to the nudge here....I decided to have a looksee today.

Had previously removed rad support and radiator...which gave a lot more access to the crank pulley.

There were 2  3/8" holes in the crank damper....so we cleaned them out and found some threads...

Ran the tap through  and went bolt hunting...

Didn't take much with the 2 foot bar to get it moving....

Went around one and a half revolutions and it got tighter .Stuck valve maybe?

Will pull the plugs and investigate tomorrow....

To be continued...............