I made some headway but not yet in a position to fire it up. I had hoped to find a correct air cleaner for a 4 BBL. I ordered one in from Classic Industries but it has the long narrow snorkel. I don't like the look and feel it won't haul enough air to fully benefit the 4 BBL. I'm sure engineers would disagree, since they designed it but... I believe the one shown in the pic that I used is from '61 but could be mistaken. Like everything metal I get my hands on I glass bead blasted it and treated it with POR-15. I will tone down the shine with POR-15 top coat the next time I have the can out.

I have the Magnaflow exhaust system temporarily attached. I had to remove the factory brackets from the frame to make room for it. It looks like I'll have to drill holes in the frame to accommodate the Magnaflow hanger system at the mufflers and tailpipes. I won't drill any holes in the frame until the body is back on and I see exactly how everything lines up. The middle hanger connects to a cross-member in the floor.

I ordered a new rad cap from GM who had to special order it from the warehouse in Memphis, TN. At least it came and I didn't have to pay exchange etc. etc. I had the rad checked and flushed at a shop and they said it was good to go. I am now cleaning the rad frame getting it ready for POR-15. No blasting this time. I don't want to risk damaging the rad. I hit it with a wire wheel and now will use POR-15 cleaner followed by POR-15 prep before treating it.

 

Thats very true, attention to detail shows. Nice looking exhaust.

Thanks guys, I hope it works as well as it looks, fingers crossed.

Sorry for not keeping this post updated. The flywheel and mini-torque worked fine on the 350 block and is working fine on mine. Finally, fired it up nicely, that is until two valves began to sound like a push rod was soon coming out, so I shut it down. I tried adjust the valves but was unable to quiet them. I dug deeper and discovered two of the pressed in rocker arm studs were coming out. The replacement ones I bought were the thread in type. I tapped the holes in the head and installed them.

The motor started fine and was running quiet. Five minutes into the break in the rubber gasket, at the back of the block, between the heads actually tore and oil was blowing out big time. It was a new gasket. It stayed connected on the corners but the middle tore. This time when I took it apart I used silicone and let it set for a few days before installing the intake. While I was waiting for the silicone to setup I began to be concerned about the health of the cam shaft due to so much cranking and all the starts and stops. I decided to pull the lifters to check for wear. I didn't like what I saw. The bottom of every lifter had a dull wear spot about the size of a dime. I made the decision to get a new cam and lifters.

I went with the same cam but this time, instead of using the Melling lifters I used Comp. Their lifters have a bluish colour to the the bottom that is supposed to make them even more tempered than a regular lifter. It appears as though the old girl wanted to remain asleep or was testing my resolve. Here's a link to the video that proves I finally won. I am very happy with the end result and can't wait until we get it on the road!!!! 

As a final note, Nova Automotive told me not to expect 20 inches of vacuum, 18 was most likely.  I ended with 19. 

Great job and video Glenn. Will that light trick work with Pertronics Glenn?

Excellent video Glenn! I too didn't know that trick for setting initial timing.

4SPEED427 wrote:

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Interesting way to set the timing with the test light. I've never seen that one before. You taught an old dog (backyard mechanic!) a new trick.

I was taught way back when how to get it very close and just move the distributor on start up but that's even better.

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Must admit it's a fairly recent new skill.  I'm soon 71, so it's not to late to learn a new trick or two.  In days of old I simply used to put the distributor so the vacuum advance was relatively parallel to the valve cover.  With these new cams they don't want any unnecessary cranking to prevent wear, they want instant start.  I didn't quite achieve it due to low fuel, but it wasn't bad.

Canadian Poncho wrote:

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Excellent video Glenn! I too didn't know that trick for setting initial timing.

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 Thanks Todd, I likely should have turned it into a series, and should have shown how to set up a carb, adjust valves etc.  It was just too much to put into one video without it getting so long no one would watch.

You have the soothing manner of an auto shop teacher I used to have long ago. A small thing, but It's really quite a milestone seeing oil come up through the rockers on the prime isn't it!

I've done a similar thing using a pertronix. Powered up, I just used #1 spark plug as a trouble light. It'll spark as the pickup sweeps the hall effect magnet at #1 when you rotate the dist.

What a thing of beauty you have there. 

If it works with Pertronics, logically it would work with hei, similarly a magnetic pickup? After thinking about it, the points opening and closing are providing a 12 volt spark to the #1 plug, the magnetic pickup is doing exactly the same thing?

LT1Caddy wrote:

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Excellent video. So calm like he does it every day 2-3 times LOL.
All the "initial starts" I've had never went that smooth...

Will the timing trick work with HEI Glenn ?

Thanks for the video

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 Thanks for the comment on the video.

I haven't tired it but when you read comments in this link it makes sense something similar should work.  I wouldn't connect a test light to the number plug wire.  If memory serves me correctly, HEI systems generate about 25,000 volts, your 12 volt test light wouldn't stand a chance.  Connecting your timing light and using the inductive pickup should do the same thing as the test I did for point systems.