In scoping it out before cutting, I see the trunk latch mount extends up, around and in front of the channel. And is spot welded lengthwise in 5 places.
My plan is to cut out the spotwelds then along the red line, keeping this important bracing section. The new channel should slide in behind the brace, and I'll plug weld to it through those old spotweld voids, and maybe add another fake horizontal section up top again to make it look stock.
One neat thing I had no knowledge of, is how the trunk lock tumbler is retained. It slips into a slotted stamping that comes around and is held in place by a single screw (arrow). Probably became a clip by time this body run ended.
Does the replacement trunk seal have little pins that stick into that channel. I noticed in the photos that there were small holes in the base that might locate the clips rubber section in the channel. Did you pull out the 'good' pieces for a look?
Pontiacanada wrote:I forgot to check mine, I'll check today.
It's the same profile as yours, but in better shape in the flat middle section, rusty towards the corners. The rust seems to correspond to the places where the trunk seal is deteriorated. It was actually wet in those places.
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Prince Edward Island
'64 Parisienne CS "barn find" - last on the road in '86 ... Owner Protection Plan booklet, original paint, original near-mint aqua interior, original aqua GM floor mats, original 283, factory posi, and original rust.
So like mine, your 64 should be fairly easy as well Darryl.
Got to cutting out today. Removed the old channel in a few sections, ground out the spotwelds on the center support with a ball die grinder carbide in the air tool. Worked well, probably faster than a cheap spotweld drill could do. Separated the center section from the brace with a chisel,
Zip cut 5 slots center in the channel to get the curve in. Then welded up those slots when it looked close.
Cut the channel to length and began to tweak it to sit right. The pictures are it just sitting in. Needs a fair bit of adjustment to get it right, but it does sit nice in the latch brace. The right corner will also have to be cut out and a section made.
The remains. Of course I cut right through one of the harness tabs I wanted to save, but the other survived,
So like mine, your 64 should be fairly easy as well Darryl.
I'm worried about fixing it ... it's on my rusty ole parts car.
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Prince Edward Island
'64 Parisienne CS "barn find" - last on the road in '86 ... Owner Protection Plan booklet, original paint, original near-mint aqua interior, original aqua GM floor mats, original 283, factory posi, and original rust.
'64 Parisienne CS "barn find" - last on the road in '86 ... Owner Protection Plan booklet, original paint, original near-mint aqua interior, original aqua GM floor mats, original 283, factory posi, and original rust.
Got the channel in today. Another small but satisfying step.
I added a strip of metal all the way across that tailpanel edge where I cut the channel away. The body metal is pretty thin in that panel, so kind of a backer to be better able to buttweld without blow through. It worked.
Where the ends joined onto the old, I also welded little tabs on the underside of the new section, same idea to back the weld. To weld inside the channel at the join, I made two cuts in the 90 lip about .5" off the ends, and bent them up to get the gun in. Folded them back and welded then up when done. Got in to smooth the weld a bit with a zip wheel edge.
Next step. Repair (not replace) the passenger side turn in the channel. Pull all the old seal out, clean, seam seal and paint the channel. Add a little body filler along that rear exposed edge of the new channel to smooth it up a bit.
Got the channel in today. Another small but satisfying step.
I added a strip of metal all the way across that tailpanel edge where I cut the channel away. The body metal is pretty thin in that panel, so kind of a backer to be better able to buttweld without blow through. It worked.
Where the ends joined onto the old, I also welded little tabs on the underside of the new section, same idea to back the weld. To weld inside the channel at the join, I made two cuts in the 90 lip about .5" off the ends, and bent them up to get the gun in. Folded them back and welded then up when done. Got in to smooth the weld a bit with a zip wheel edge.
Next step. Repair (not replace) the passenger side turn in the channel. Pull all the old seal out, clean, seam seal and paint the channel. Add a little body filler along that rear exposed edge of the new channel to smooth it up a bit.
When life is "normal" I'm coming to see this car.....
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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 45,000 original miles
1966 Grande Parisienne, 396 1 of 23 factory air cars
Pulled out all the remaining weatherstrip. Scraped the channel clean of any remaining seal, glue and flake. Wire wheel in a drill to dress it up. A few taps around to knock out any stray flake.
Blew it out with compressed air, flushed it all out with acetone, then painted inside all the original channel liberally with POR 15. Left the new section later for primer.
Poured the remaining paint into two small Dollarama mini mason jars, to the absolute hilt. We'll see how they last.
Masked off, primed and painted the channel blue. Could have done way more fine finishing before paint, but I've run out of steam. Maybe one day if the car gets paint more time could be spent.
I'll put the seal in on the next nice day.
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65 Laurentian post, 67 Grande Parisienne 4 door HT.
Fitted the weatherstrip. I'll apply some Ultra black to the outer edge at some point. Trunk needs a mild slam to close, and pops open nice when the key is turned...just like new.
I'm calling this one as done. Thanks for watching.
