Mix diesel fuel and light weight oil 50/50 and fill the cylinders and put the plus back in. Take the plugs back out a couple days later and try to turn it over by hand.

I wonder if it would be of any use on top of the piston lube being added, to fill the crankcase with some light oil mixed with varsol, and give it a prime through the distributor drive?

Marvel mystery oil works too or PB blast, let it soak a long time

i think the key is to let it sit and soak, and not do anything to rush the process.

I had a P-455 that turned when I bought it, and it stayed buttoned up in my garage for several years, then when I decided to part with it, it wouldn't budge(!?!);
Knowing that it couldnt be that bad, and that the original heads were NFG (the dirvers side exhaust manifold had a weld repair that actually welded the manifold to the head!), I took the engine down to the short block, and over a couple weeks, I'd try various oils (pentrating, atf ect) and work on getting it moving... eventually it turned freely again, and when I inspected the cylinder walls, they were just fine.

The key is patience. Ive freed a couple of cars over the years. It takes time to do it. Weeks not days or hours.
Regardless of what fluid you use.

Here's a interesting take on freeing up a stuck engine...

Go to 30:00

 

so far I think dropping it off at Tait Ave in Burlington would work the best

So Im gona go with the diesel fuel/tranny fluid mix. Gona put down the carb. How much should I use? Cup, pint, quart ?

65Camino wrote:

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I put it right into the cylinders. Take the plugs out and pour it in. As much as you can. Depends on how big an engine. You want enough to go in to cover the rings. Then refill every time you can as you go.

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 Good advice.

My 2 cents...

Dumping the lube down the carb isn't going to reach any cylinder whose intake valve is not open.  But, down-the-carb often does work because most often, the rusty cylinder is the one with the open intake valve that let water in. 

I would still want to pull the plugs anyway so I'm not fighting compression and a stuck piston/valve/bearing/lifter.  It's not uncommon to twist the harmonic balancer bolt right off when trying to get an engine unstuck.

I'd pull the valve covers too (only 4 little bolts per side) and dump some lube over the valves and down the pushrods to try to lube the lifters.  A stuck valve or lifter is enough to prevent you from turning the engine over, or cause a lot of damage if you get too aggressive.

If you were really trying to save this engine (rare or numbers matching), as opposed to just getting it to drive itself out of the barn, I'd pull the engine and do a tear down to find out specifically where it's stuck.  I know of several old cars still running years after getting the engine unstuck.  Unfortunately, on some I discovered I'd spun a bearing 5 minutes after getting it running.

Good luck!

Ha ha !

oh and oil looks very clean too

Pontiacanada wrote:

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DonSSDD wrote:

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50/50 acetone and automatic transmission fluid in the cylinder for a soak.

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 I put this stuff on everything! Great penetrator!

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 best penetration lube bar none. down in the states they call it pelican piss.