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Post Info TOPIC: So I'm bleeding the brakes on the Laurentian...


A Poncho Legend!

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So I'm bleeding the brakes on the Laurentian...


and am getting nowhere! I bought one of those one man vacuum pump bleeders. I've replaced all the shoes, hardware, wheel cylinders, flex lines, rear steel lines, and master cylinder. I bench bleed the master as per the instructions (totally different as to what I'm used to but the instructions say "new and improved method"). The car is level and on ramps so I can get underneath. First problem- the front drum wheel cylinders are damn near impossible to get a wrench on due to their proximity with the spindle arm. The only way to loosen it is with a socket. Of course the shop manual says to use a special tool. Anyway, I crack the bleeder and attach the vacuum system. BTW the manual for the pump says to start with the wheel closest to the master. I always thought you should start farthest away? I pump and pump until fluid starts flowing out. TONS of bubbles. I refill the master 3 times. Still bubbles. Now I wonder if it's air coming in at the bleeder. That hose from the pump seems to seal but who knows? I pull the hose off and let brake fluid drip out for a few moments and tighten the bleeder. I do the right front-same thing, left rear (easier to get to the bleeder) and right rear. I pump the brakes- feel not too bad. Start the car to get the power assist- SPONGY AS HELL! I gave up for tonight and will have to see if I can recruit a friend to help me do it the old fashioned way on the weekend. That's the only problem when you replace a bunch of parts at the same time- you start to wonder if you have a component problem- bad master, bad cylinder, brakes not adjusted to tight? yadda yadda yadda. Is there a tool you can buy that makes it easier to loosen/tighten those front bleeders?
    Todd


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A Poncho Legend!

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You forgot again! there is someone out there, who will be delighted, to bleed those for you, and you can pretend, to be in awe, of his talents... Remember Huck Finn and the white fence?

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todd,
toss the vac bleeder, they're a pain, sit the wife behind the wheel.
i used a socket to loosen the bleeders, then used the open end of a wrench while bleeding, reuse the socket when you're done to snug them tight.
dave.

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Canadian Poncho Superstar!

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I had the same problem last fall when I was converting my 62 Parisienne to dual master cylinder. I had a new cylinder and lines, but no matter what I did I could only get either front brakes or rear brakes (even bleeding the traditional way), but not both, and I always had a really bad pedal. So just to get the car mobile I put the single cylinder back on and the brakes were great. You're right, if you change too many things at once it's really hard to diagnose the problem. I'll revisit it in the spring - I'm sure it's something simple, probably in the distribution block.

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62 Catalina 2 dr post project

69 Parisienne 2 dr ht 427

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A Poncho Legend!

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Ya, I emailed a good friend of mine (we're a good team) that I've known for 25 years to see if he can come out and give me a hand this Saturday. Spring is just around the corner and I have a million small things I want to do to the car before I take it out (dual exhaust, carpet, seat upholstery). Like Carl, I have lot's of projects to do during the warm weather this year. I promised my wife I'd do a bunch of landscaping this year so I need to get as much as I can get done on the Pontiac while the snow is here. Sounds like a day off may be in the works **cough**
Todd


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A Poncho Legend!

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I did the same thing on my 67 Nova recently. When I got the car last fall, it had been parked for 28 years. Needless to say, it was time for all cylinders including the master. I used a suction gun at each wheel to pull fluid up to there. Then it was time to pump up, bleed out, repeat as necessary. Our 13 year old son was helping me, as I had tried and tried to get it just using the suction gun, but to no avail. I would say it took close to an hour of starting farthest from the master (as you say, which I believe is the correct way) and just doing it over and over. In the end, I finally got some air out that I would have long guessed should have come out, and now the brakes feel great, good hard pedal. It took a LOT of patience though.

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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 45,000 original miles 

1966 Grande Parisienne, 396 1 of 23 factory air cars



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Todd, that car did something weird when I pinched the rear brake lines-the pedal was to the floor then spongy for a day or so then worked fine-I suspected a brake booster issue-then noticed some macgver work on the rubber seal for the vacuum boost on the brake booster-everything was then working so I did't mess with it-check it out. As for bleeding-ya do it the old way-much better results. Glad to hear its getting duals, Midas really messed up the crossover pipe and the left exhaust manifold.

I had the fuel tank down too and cleaned the sludge out, but the top inside has a coating of rust you may want to do something with-the tank is not thin or leaking but a full tank of fuel may pick up some of the upper rust.

 Its a great car just requires some of the 20 + year storage issues worked out

Wish I would have sold it to you first-much more appreciative owner plus could have cut out the middle man expenses.

Ken

-- Edited by 67BBSD at 00:21, 2008-02-19

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A Poncho Legend!

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One thing I learned was to always check the brake fluid before driving an old car home. Now, I didn't have any problems, but when I did the brakes, the left front cylinder was shot and when I disconnected the right front there was no brake fluid at all. The master was pretty much empty with a thick layer of sludge at the bottom. It looks like the check valve at the booster needs to be replaced. Anyone got a good spare?
As for the tank I may just replace it. I have to remove it to figure out why the gas gauge isn't working right.
Todd

-- Edited by 69Laurentian at 07:06, 2008-02-19

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Uber Guru

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todd,
sending unit is still available from gm pn 6428084 '67-'70.
should be the same one? for your laurentian.
dave.

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A Poncho Legend!

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Thanks for the heads up Dave!
I talked to one of my techs today. He has a slick snap on wrench designed to get to those front bleeders. That will make life easier!
Todd


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A Poncho Legend!

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I priced out the sending unit. About $175 my cost. No stock in Canada, some in the U.S. There's one on Ebay (a repro) for $65. Seller states it fits '67-70 Impala. Can anyone verify if they are the same?
           Todd


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A Poncho Legend!

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Yes, it looks to be the same. There is a couple of choices in the Chevy parts book for those years, depending on engine. I would assume that is the 3/8 line or 5/16 line likely. You should be fine with one of the repros.

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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 45,000 original miles 

1966 Grande Parisienne, 396 1 of 23 factory air cars



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part number posted is 3/8" line, listed for 327-396cids
dave.

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A Poncho Legend!

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Got the sending unit from GM yesterday. Thanks for the heads up on the part number Dave! I'm glad I get a GM employee discount. This part lists at over $300!
Todd

-- Edited by 69Laurentian at 18:09, 2008-03-11

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not sure, but i think i paid just over $200. trade price about 2 yrs ago for mine.
it looks like a $65. part though.evileye
dave.

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A Poncho Legend!

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Well I got the tank back into the car. It came back from being epoxy lined this week. I was surprised the difference between the old sending unit and the new one. The old one is a can type unit with the float inside. Likely a better design which would prevent the gauge from fluctuating from sloshing fuel. As you know, the new one has the float out in the open. I tested the unit out of the tank and I don't think there will be any issues- that gas gauge doesn't move too quick anyway. Once the tank was in I added about 4 gallons of gas and turned on the ignition and..we had a reading!
Now on to the dual exhaust..
Todd


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