Just cut the center pipes apart at the flange, bend them outwards a bit, and bolt 'em on, right? Not!
Man, that has happened to me before numerous times (most recently harmonic balancer bolt) and I suspect it has happened to all big block builders, somhow those pesky mouse parts sneak in grrrrrr
Now comes the hassle of dealing with the return, phone calls, shipping, wait more for correct parts ...
Good thing it's a project car, not needed for daily use, eh?
In empathy, Dave
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1956 Pontiac Pathfinder 2dr sedan, 496 - dyno'd 545 hp, stick shift, 4.11 posi - Hot Rod
He can keep sbc headers , if he buys the "company car" If I had a house sold, I would buy it, just to tease all the Ontario members.... I thinkI will send 100.00 to Wayne to hold it for Todd
believe it or not but I have 2 sets of headers-both BB.I didn't know but my BB headers for my 68 Acadian are of the same shape as my headers in my Chief!I even went so far as to try them and sure enough perfect fit.The only difference was that the Acadian's were a little bigger tubes.I put smaller ones on the Chief.Just a thought and I may even have an oil pan that'll fit, if so let me know.
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"No matter how much you change, you still have to pay for the things you've done".
So I called the speed shop that I bought them from (I bought an intake from him at the same time) and he gets defensive and says "I have the invoice and the part number on there is for SBC headers. Must have been some sort of communication problem". I said "Why would I want headers for a small block when I ordered a BBC intake?. I told you I wanted headers and an intake to fit a 69 Impala 427 (you never say Pontiac Laurentian..)" He was still very defensive and wanted to blame me! This was the owner of the store! Anyway I'll have to waste my lunch hour Monday and drive from the SW corner of London to the east end to swap them. Apparently they had the BBC headers in stock the whole time!
Sorry to hear that, at least you do not have to ship them back, way better to drive across town than to deal with post office. I like to deal with local people (even if it costs a bit more than Jegs or Summit etc.) to keep the local economy going, but one time with jerk response like that and I'd write him off the list for future spending. Hopefully you will get your BBC headers and not get "restocking" or other bogus charges for returning the SBC headers.
All that hassle will fade from memory when you fire up the big dog
Dave
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1956 Pontiac Pathfinder 2dr sedan, 496 - dyno'd 545 hp, stick shift, 4.11 posi - Hot Rod
what the hell is the matter with people these days??? you(the shop) screwed up, just deal with it without the PMS attitude.
those sbc headers fit impala, nova, camaro, chevelle. the jerk probably had those in stock too.
you get alot farther in life with honey than vinegar.
-- Edited by 69 belair on Saturday 4th of July 2009 05:41:12 PM
You are right Dave I used to apologize for tons of stuff, that was not my fault, and I had guys coming to me for miles and miles "My replacement" has the same attitude as Todd experienced, and the store in Exeter is losing customers hand over fist... I wonder, if Todd should ask for a refund, nicely and go somewhere else I hate RETAIL lol
thats funny, I go see the local jobber for a price on a rad for my 283 auto beaumont rather than getting the old one fixed-he quoted it a little higher than I thought it should be with the discount he usually gives-anyway it comes in-its for a big block!!-he says that'll be better anyway-I always buy for big block cars ! now no spacer between the support and rad and should put on a shroud too I guess.
I call the other day for clips for the body side molding on the buick I give the GM parts woman the v.i.n. plus the part number on the clip-she says no it shows one long clip-I say no its 6 vertical ones. I go down there-they show on the screen-she says well you said it was one clip not six ! You have to give the parts person all the RIGHT information she says-----my guy has moved on due to the closing so I'll chalk it up to lack of experience she was the manager now manager/parts counter
Todd, don't forget to take the pressure relief spring out of the oil pump before you tack weld the pickup on. Also, if you've got your engine on the stand, measure the clearance you're going to have between the pump pickup and the sump of the oil pan. I think you should be looking for around 1/4" or so. ( Check this before tacking the pick-up!)
Thanks for the tip Barry. I think I'll take the pump to CP member Gus and have him TIG weld it. I'll remove the spring prior. Do you guys suggest I pack the pump with vasoline when I put it back together?
Here is information about Big Block Oil Pump Installation (from engine assembly manual):
"It is important that the oil pump is fully lubricated before installation. There are two alternative ways to accomplish this (I used method #2, much easier):
1. Remove the bottom cover of the pump by removing the four bolts from the bottom plate using a 3/8 socket wrench. Pack the gears with engine assembly lube, making sure to get total coverage of all gear teeth and gear faces. Your oil pump may feature at thin paper gasket. If so, replace this during cover installation. Your engine gasket kit should include one of these gaskets. Install the gasket dry with no added sealant. Install the cover, apply thread-locking compound to the bolt threads, and tighten the four bolts to 80 in-lbs.
2. You can prime the oil pump with oil instead of packing the gears with assembly lube. In order to do this, you can submerge the pump in a can of clean engine oil. Turn the pump shaft by hand (clockwise) to make sure that oil has been sucked up by the pickup and is pumped out of the outlet orifice.
Using a new intermediate shaft with coupler, attach the intermediate shaft to the pump shaft. The coupler snaps onto the pump shaft. (Do this only with the engine in its normal position, not upside-down on a engine stand.)
Install the pump onto the block, locating the pump using the existing dowel pins. Lubricate the pump mounting bolt threads with engine oil and tighten to 65 ft-lbs. Do not place a gasket or sealer between the pump and its mounting surface on the rear main cap. This is a metal-to-metal mating, with no gasket needed."
Dave
-- Edited by davelacourse on Sunday 5th of July 2009 12:15:42 PM
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1956 Pontiac Pathfinder 2dr sedan, 496 - dyno'd 545 hp, stick shift, 4.11 posi - Hot Rod
I drove over on my lunch hour. The owner wasn't in so I talked to one of the counter people. Turns out the only BBC Hedmans in stock were shorties which I don't want. So, I got a refund and I'm still on the hunt for a set.
I found a set of Hooker headers that retail for over 300 bucks new for half that on Kijiji. Seller is going to deliver them to work tomorrow as he drives right by. All my tune up parts arrived today thanks to Carl Stevenson (good ol AC Delco). We're gettin closer...
I found a set of Hooker headers that retail for over 300 bucks new for half that on Kijiji. Seller is going to deliver them to work tomorrow as he drives right by. All my tune up parts arrived today thanks to Carl Stevenson (good ol AC Delco). We're gettin closer...
I think you will be happy with the Hooker Headers, I had them on my road race Corvette (the sidemount type) and even though they had to snake around to get into place, I had no problem with easy perfect fit from day one.
Of course mine were VHT black, not fancy-schmancy chrome
Keep up the good work!
Dave
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1956 Pontiac Pathfinder 2dr sedan, 496 - dyno'd 545 hp, stick shift, 4.11 posi - Hot Rod
Hey Dave I had a set of those Hooker sidepipes on my '65 Corvette convertible and on my '69 coupe. I loved the look and sound, back then..... I don't think I could take it for too long now. Had a few people get burn marks on the legs also. Would probably get sued now! Bought the 69 in Montreal and the Muncie shifter locked up in Dorval, so we pulled it up on a high curb (no jack of course) I jumped a fence at a hotel pool and scooped a bucket of water out to cool off the pipes enough to get under it and put it in 4th gear. I drove it home (7 hours) like that with just 4th no problem.
Hey Dave I had a set of those Hooker sidepipes on my '65 Corvette convertible and on my '69 coupe. I loved the look and sound, back then..... I don't think I could take it for too long now. Had a few people get burn marks on the legs also. Would probably get sued now! Bought the 69 in Montreal and the Muncie shifter locked up in Dorval, so we pulled it up on a high curb (no jack of course) I jumped a fence at a hotel pool and scooped a bucket of water out to cool off the pipes enough to get under it and put it in 4th gear. I drove it home (7 hours) like that with just 4th no problem.
Never had those great Hooker headers on any street car, only the race car -- had quite a few street cars with factory side exhaust, 2 - 67's and a 68, they had shielding that helped keep legs from the actual exhaust pipe inside. The 67's were way loud, but those were only fun cars for occasional outings, the 68 wasn't loud at all, different design I guess.
Did not like the stock Muncie linkage, good old Hurst was the usual fix
Only 4th gear, no problem, slip the clutch a little bit and off we go - but - hope you didn't have to back up at any time on your trip home back then
Dave
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1956 Pontiac Pathfinder 2dr sedan, 496 - dyno'd 545 hp, stick shift, 4.11 posi - Hot Rod
Headers were dropped off today. A couple of dents in one tube but nothing I'm going to worry about. No rust etc. Brad, fellow CP member gave me a set of collectors. We're good on the exhaust side!
Still waiting for my oil pump pick up tube though....
1956 Pontiac Pathfinder 2dr sedan, 496 - dyno'd 545 hp, stick shift, 4.11 posi - Hot Rod
I wonder, if Todd should ask for a refund, nicely and go somewhere else I hate RETAIL lol
